Sunday, June 24, 2001

By Kathleen Ganster

ASSATEAGUE ISLAND, Md. -- Imagine lying in your sleeping bag, listening to the sound of waves, knowing the ocean is a few hundred yards from your "bedroom." Wild ponies walk by your campsite at breakfast while the sea gulls cry out for your leftovers.

After breakfast, you leave your beach-side kitchen and take your beach chair and the kids to walk the short distance to sit by the ocean. This is beach camping at Assateague Island, Md.

		If you go ... Assateague Island National Seashore, 410-641-1441, www.nps.gov/asis Assateague State Park, 410-641-2120, www.dnr.state.md.us/ publiclands/eastern.html Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, 757-336-6122. Chincoteague Chamber of Commerce, 757-336-6161, www.chincoteaguechamber .com

But as ideal as it sounds, beach camping can be a challenge.

About 10 miles south of Ocean City, Md., Assateague Island has been part of the National Park System since 1965. A barrier island, it rests between the Atlantic Ocean and Sinepuxent Bay in Worcester County, Md. Assateague is in both Maryland and Virginia.

The island is divided into three areas: Assateague Island National Seashore, run by the National Park Service; Assateague State Park, managed by Maryland's Department of Natural Resources; and Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, on the far southern end of the island in Virginia and operated by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

Assateague has no accommodations. Camping is the only way to stay there.

The island has two campgrounds, one owned and operated by the state of Maryland, the other a national campground. Both include ocean-side and bay-side campgrounds. The visitor centers, bathhouses and exhibits are wheelchair-accessible, along with two campsites that can be reserved. For those who just want a brief beach experience, there is a day beach, which is perfect for vacationers staying at Ocean City who prefer a less crowded beach.

Assateague Island and its even better-known sister island, Chincoteague, Va., are famous for their wild pony herds. On the final Wednesday of each July, thousands of visitors gather on both shores to watch the herds of wild ponies as they are gathered and herded across the several hundred yards of shallows that separate Assateague and Chincoteague. On the Thursday of that week, the ponies are counted and some are auctioned off, with proceeds going to the Chincoteague volunteer fire department. On the Friday, the remaining ponies are herded back to Assateague. (Reservations are a must for this event, which this year will be July 25-27.)

		Museum of Wildfowl Art carves niche SALISBURY, Md. - On your way to Assateague Island, you may want to visit at the Ward Museum of Wildfowl Art in Salisbury, Md. About five hours from Pittsburgh and on the route to Assateague, the Ward Museum is a must for nature lovers, decoy and bird carvers, bird watchers and children. Named for two brothers, Lem and Steve Ward, who were expert decoy carvers, the Ward Brothers' Workshop has examples of their carvings, paintings and writings. In addition to the gallery of their work, the museum is a showcase of outstanding displays of carvers from all over the nation. The world carving competition is held at Ward each April. Winning entries become part of the permanent display in the Championship Gallery at the museum. The museum has several galleries of the history of wildfowl art, including collections of antique decoys and decoys from around the nation. The Decoy Study Gallery has a nice display of decoys from Pennsylvania. The Habitat Theatre has natural wildfowl environment displays. The museum offers several educational programs and carving workshops throughout the year. On July 14, the museum will celebrate Family Fun Day with free events for the whole family. For more information about the Ward Museum of Wildfowl Art, call 410-742-4988. -- Kathleen Ganster

Campers know, however, that while the ponies are fun to watch, they can be a nuisance.

People aren't allowed to feed the ponies, but that doesn't stop the them from trying to get into your food and trash. One night, I had to chase ponies away from our dining tent, and they were in no hurry to leave.

The state campground area offers many camping sites, and they are popular. Reservations are encouraged, and there are waiting lists. Many campers choose to "chance it," especially during the week. The bathhouses have hot showers and flush toilets. The park has a dump station for trailers and motor homes, but no hookups. There are paved areas for vehicles and sand areas where campers may pitch tents. The paved areas are large enough for motor homes and trailers as well.

The National Park Campground is much more rustic with ocean-side and bay-side camping. There are chemical toilets, drinking water and cold, rinse-off showers.

Several ocean-side "walk-in" sites are beautiful, if you don't mind hauling your gear 50 feet or so.

Here's a wimp warning -- there is absolutely no shade on the island. The sun can be brutal during the summer, especially when reflected off the water and white sand, so a dining tent or shelter of some sort for your cooking and dining hours is a necessity.

It is conceivable that you could spend your whole time in a regular tent, but in my opinion that would be hot and stuffy. You will need sunscreen, waterproof if you plan to swim. Since bugs can also be bothersome, definitely take insect repellent.

I have camped on Assateague many times during the last 20 years, and in addition to the sun and bugs, you can always count on at least one storm. It's a flat island, and the winds can be severe. Tent campers should have especially long tent pegs. The long yellow ones that you can pick up just about anywhere are necessary.

On a visit there with my friend Melissa Choma, we had neglected to take extra-long tent pegs. On our second day, a hard afternoon storm hit. We both had to drop our tents in order to prevent them from being blown over. After the storm, we went to the nearest store to stock up. Melissa asked the price of the pegs and then told the sales clerk, "You realize you could charge me $1 million a peg, and I would pay it." Save yourself the hassle and take your own pegs.

Warnings out of the way, Assateague is a great family vacation site. The National Park Visitors Center, at the crossing point over to the island, has outstanding displays, various programs, souvenirs and a helpful staff. The center hosts nature activities every day - where else can you pet a horseshoe crab? -- and children can follow a booklet to complete requirements for a Junior Ranger Patch.

The Maryland State Visitors Center, located on the island, is smaller. It has many activities for children and nature activities. There are also a bait and tackle shop, camp store and a small restaurant/snack bar area. Church services are held on the beach every Sunday.

Other activities include swimming, fishing, surf fishing, surf boarding, boating in the bay, clamming, crabbing and, of course, people- and pony-watching. During the summer, lifeguards protect the beaches.

Bikers will find four miles of flat, paved roads with an adjacent bike trails perfect for long bike rides. Hikers have a choice of trails that are easy for children to traverse.

Assateague, which is home to more than 300 species of birds, is also a favorite of bird watchers.

Kathleen Ganster is a free-lance writer in Hampton.