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Self-tanners can solve the problem of overexposure to sun
Sunday, May 28, 2000 By LaMont Jones, Post-Gazette Fashion Writer
Study after study has shown that prolonged exposure to the sun's harmful ultraviolet rays can cause skin cancer, premature wrinkling, dehydration and a laundry list of other conditions.
Why, then, do millions of people bask in the sun to get a tan? Do they not believe the evidence that the sun, despite being a source of vitamin C, depletes the skin of vitamins and minerals? That it dries and inflames skin?
What price vanity?
Sure, you can slather on bottles of sun protection potions. Dermatologists and scientists agree that you should, even on overcast days. But wouldn't it be wiser to heed all of their advice and avoid prolonged sun exposure?
For those who would rather sleep on a bed of nails than endure summer without a sun-kissed glow, the plethora of self-tanners and bronzers on the market offer a safe, smart alternative to tanning booths and dangerous ultraviolet rays.
These products have come a long way, baby. Technology has improved such that typical complaints -- a fake orange hue, zebra-like streaks, fast-fading color -- are becoming a thing of the past. And most now contain soothing and nourishing natural ingredients such as aloe to pamper skin.
Self-tanners have been around for centuries, since people found that oils or juices could be extracted from certain berries, blossoms and nuts to artificially color skin. Manufactured self-tanners have been on the United States market for decades. For the most part, the products have been unpopular because of unpleasant aromas, uneven tanning or a fake look. But manufacturers have stepped up quality and production, with more options and a wider price range than ever.
Self-tanners contain government-tested and -approved dyes that penetrate the epidermis, or skin's outer layer, to create a temporary, artificially darker skin color. Dermatologists consider them safe, and many contain natural ingredients to nourish and moisturize skin.
"Nothing negative can be said about them, really," says Dr. Rebecca J. Caserio, a dermatologist for 17 years and clinical associate professor of dermatology at the University of Pittsburgh.
However, Caserio warns, users should remember that most self-tanners don't contain sunscreen and therefore offer no protection against harmful rays.
"Even though you appear tan, you are not sun-protected, so wear a sunscreen or buy a tanner with sunscreen," she advises.
To get the best out of any self-tanner, Caserio recommends exfoliating first on the areas to be tanned and using less tanner on elbows, knees and other thicker-skinned areas because they tend to absorb more dye. Also, check labels if you are allergic to any fragrances or preservatives.
The convenience of self-tanners comes with a price. Here's a sampling of what's available in stores:
Even if you are using a self-tanner, you should still apply sunscreen.
"Self-tanners are like cosmetics," says Dr. Charles Zugerman, an associate professor of clinical dermatology at Northwestern University Medical School who sees close to 400 cases of skin cancer each year. "It's like putting rouge or lipstick or makeup on your skin. It is nothing more than that. It's safe, and it's wonderful if it's going to make you feel good. But it does nothing to protect your from the sun. If you plan to go out in the sun, use sunscreen as well as self-tanner."
Since it would be easier to achieve world peace than keep children indoors during warm weather, it's important that children also wear some sort of sun protection. Many manufacturers now make sun block specifically for youngsters, in the wake of research that indicates that by age 18, the body has already used up 50 percent of its sun "capital."
In fact, Zugerman warns, "one severe sunburn in the first 18 years of life damages your skin forever."
Many of the products aimed at kids are fun for them to wear. Banana Boat's Cool Colorz Vanishing Sunblock line, for example, comes in bubble gum, grape and berry scents and creatively designed packaging ($7.49). And, for girls, Sungirl Ultra-Waterproof Sunblock SPF 30 with Glitter, by California-based Natural Desires, comes in cotton candy, twilight blue and lemon drop. It's $9.99 at Walgreens and sungirl.com.
"The vast majority of sun damage occurs in childhood, so it is critical for children to be adequately protected and get accustomed to using sunscreen on a regular basis," said Dr. Lydia Evans, a consulting dermatologist to L'Oreal.
Because the damaging effects continue long after someone has come in out of the sun, more companies are making after-sun products. Clarins, for example, has a new line of after-sun care products that contain soothing and healing aloe and vitamins A, E and B6. And Bath & Body Works makes an aloe vera- and kava-kava-spiked Soothing Body Wash ($8), among other products.
But don't fool yourself into believing that applying sun block means you're totally protected.
"Most sunscreens block UVB rays -- those responsible for burning -- and some even protect against short UVA rays, those responsible for sun damage," notes Dr. Alan King, a New York dermatologist. "But these same sunscreens leave the skin vulnerable to the deeper-penetrating UVA rays that are the prominent cause of longer-term damage ... to the skin."
To remedy that, Zugerman recommends checking product labels for Parsol 1789, a compound that protects against both tanning and burning radiation.
And don't forget lip balm with sunscreen to protect that kisser, which many dermatologists say is the most sensitive part of the face.
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New Self Tanning Face Lotion by Clarins ($23) for light or deep tans has a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15 and birch bark, shea butter, sesame seed oil and licorice extract. Clarins' Self Tanning Milk with SPF 6 and oat and bran extracts is $23.50.