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Tastings: White zinfandel continues its story of success

Thursday, August 08, 2002

By Bruce May

In the mid-'70s, I remember talking with Bob Trinchero of Sutter Home Winery about a blush wine, finished with some sweetness, that he made from the zinfandel grape. The wine was called white zinfandel and it sold out quickly. He told me he was going to double the production for next year.

When I visited Sutter Home the next year, the wine again had sold out quickly, and the rest is history. Although other wineries had made a blush wine from the zinfandel grape, Sutter Home is rightfully credited with its phenomenal success.

Typically, white zinfandel is a pink fruity wine with some sweetness, meant to be served chilled. It should have good acidity to balance the sweetness on the palate. It can be a perfect match for summertime buffet lunches or most picnic fare. Consumers who simply want a light-alcohol, semisweet wine with their dinner find this wine delightful.

As wine consumers, we are indebted to the white zinfandel boom for saving many of the old zinfandel vineyards from being replanted with other varietals. As the sales of robust red zinfandel wines were declining, the sales of white zinfandel were taking off. When the red zinfandel wines made a comeback in the '90s, many of these vineyards were still around to provide producers with top quality grapes.

I have selected the top seven selling white zinfandel wines in Pennsylvania in the 750-ml size bottles for review. Enjoy.

Recommended
Good (80-84)

2001 Beringer White Zinfandel -- California ($6.99, PLCB 5235): Pale pink in color, this wine has youthful berry-like aromas and flavors. It finishes medium sweet on the palate, but still with good acidity. The Beringer is a fine accompaniment to ham.

2001 Gallo Twin Valley Vineyards White Zinfandel -- California ($4.99, PLCB 7835): Light cherry red color with aromas and flavors of strawberry and tart cherry with a medium sweet finish. Best served with pasta salad.

2001 Gossamer Bay Vineyards White Zinfandel -- California ($5.99, PLCB 8480): Opens with nice aromas of strawberry and white peach. The strawberry component dominates the flavors with a medium sweet finish. Serve with fruit salad.

2001 Turning Leaf Reserve White Zinfandel -- California ($6.99, PLCB 8342): Fruity aromas of strawberry and cherry are highlighted with a hint of cinnamon. The strawberry and cherry flavors are in balance with a medium sweet wine. Light spritz was present in the glass when first poured. Best served with spicy chicken salad.

2000 Woodbridge White Zinfandel -- California ($5.99, PLCB 6261): Varietal strawberry and apple qualities are nicely concentrated in the appealing, slight candy-like aromas. The attractive strawberry flavors finish slightly sweet. There was a touch of spritz in the glass. Perfect match with Chinese dishes such as Kung Pao shrimp.

Recommended
Very Good (85-89)

2000 Beringer Limited Vineyard Selection (LVS) -- North Coast ($9.99, PLCB 4801): The Beringer LVS and the Sutter Home wines jump to the head of the class in this group of wines. Blended with 20 percent barrel-fermented chardonnay wine for added complexity, this wine opens with wonderful aromas of ripe cherry fruit. The delicious flavors of cherry fruit finish slightly sweet with a hint of lemon acidity. Serve with a grilled white fish such as halibut.

2000 Sutter Home Winery White Zinfandel -- California ($5.99, PLCB 4882): The delicate aromas of strawberry, nectarine and melon delight the senses. The fruit flavors are in perfect balance with good acidity for a slightly sweet finish. The wine is a great match with grilled chicken.


Bruce May is a McCandless-based free-lance wine writer. Write to him c/o Tastings/Food, Post-Gazette, 34 Blvd. of the Allies, Pittsburgh, PA 15222 or e-mail him at brmay4@hotmail.com.

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