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Friday, June 20, 2003

Like many restive Pittsburghers, Munch often dreams of living in a place where you can leave work on a gorgeous, warm, sunny evening and walk through a bustling Downtown where people sit out at sidewalk cafes. Munch's fantasy is being able to stop for real Mexican food -- maybe something vegetarian.

Last week, Munch lived the dream.

It was a perfect evening, weather- and otherwise, in that Munch didn't have to work late and had no other have-to-dos. Except, that is, for just having to check out a new restaurant discovered by a colleague. A real Mexican restaurant called "Cielito Lindo," which translates as "beautiful little sky."

The walk to the place sure was lovely: As much because of the Arts Festival as the weather, the streets seemed to teem, and dining tables in front of several Market Square establishments were buzzing.

Munch is no stranger to this spot, as it has been home to at least two other tasty holes-in-the-wall: the Noodle Nook and Japan Place. This incarnation looks great, with cloth tablecloths and faux flowers on the 15 or so tables, nicely decorated with Mexican art.

The most beautiful stuff is on the menu. The breakfast list starts with tamales -- "chicken with classic Mexican green or red sauce or sweet assorted fruits, wrapped in cornmeal and served inside a crispy corn husk." For $1.49!

Then huevos rancheros -- two eggs on tortillas with green sauce and beans for $3.49. And so on -- food to make you high at prices low.

Under entrees, there are mucho different burritos, tacos, fajitas and quesadillas. But what stands out are different items, such as Bistek Empanizado (shredded beef, $7.99). There are several veggie choices, too, such as Tacos Dorados de Papa, or three hard potato tacos, also with two side dishes, for $4.99.

The sides are interesting too: Besides the usual rice and refrieds, there is calabaz (zucchini, corn and other veggies) and ensalada de nopales (Mexican cactus).

There are also intriguing authentic drinks: Atole (sweetened corn-flavored milk), canela (cinnamon-flavored), and agua de horchata (sweet rice with milk) -- most about $1.

That night, they were out of juice, but when Munch asked for just agua, the pretty little server asked, "Don't you want to try something more Mexican?" How about a fruit-flavored agua de temporada? The server presented the choices in Spanish, including "Jamaica," which Munch picked even before she came back from the kitchen to say it's a flower (hibiscus).

Munch had to order the Enchilada Cielito Lindo, "three vegetable enchiladas, marinated with Guajillo pepper, topped with a bed of fresh-cooked vegetables" ($6.49).

The server was back in seconds with rectangles of paper to put down under the plate and a basket of chips and bowl of salsa.

The chips were good -- hot, just fried and yet not greasy. The salsa was good but, alas, not hot at all.

The cheese in the enchiladas could have been a bit more melted, but otherwise, the dish was great, topped by an artfully white-sauced pile of browned potato cubes. The rice was subtly seasoned and the zucchini mix was a nice and healthful change of pace.

The server kept up her efficient pace with the change, which was $11.99 out of a $20 bill.

On the way out, the owner was telling another couple about plans to open another restaurant hereabouts. So maybe Munch was a little high on the long walk to the North Side parking lot. But with a street-corner jazz concert and strawberry shortcake stand set up across from the Benedum, and more sidewalk cafe diners, and the Arts Festival crowds, even kayakers on the river, Pittsburgh was a real city, under a beautiful little sky.