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Friday, December 27, 2002

By Sarah Billingsley and Mackenzie Carpenter, Post-Gazette Staff Writers

It was neither the best of times, nor the worst of times, for Pittsburgh restaurants in 2002. Blame 9/11, blame the economy. Whatever the reason, only about 25 fine dining restaurants opened (or re-opened) for business this year. It may sound like a lot, but over 52 weeks, that's not exactly a dizzying array of new establishments to choose from.

So, instead of listing the "10 best new restaurants" this year, we favor a more nuanced approach, recalling some of the most exceptional moments in a year of dining.

This is by no means an exhaustive list; it only includes the places we visited this year. In some categories, we nominated more than one restaurant, since critics rarely agree.

Let's hope that next year's crop of eateries will give us more to write about, and if you're convinced we've forgotten something, let us know.

RESTAURANT WITH THE MOST BUZZ: LA STRADA, DOWNTOWN

After months of anticipation, La Strada opened big: in a prominent Cultural District location, with a splashy premiere party, and a clash of the titans customer/restaurant dispute on the restaurant's first Saturday night in business. This is the place that set tongues to wagging about privilege, expectation and the very definition of fine dining.

A reputation for brashness has overshadowed the fact that the food is quite good at this swanky renovated bank. Particularly enjoyable are the filet, cooked to perfection in the built-to-order oven, the saucy, steaming pastas and the luscious desserts, especially the boozy, essence-of-vanilla creme caramel.

The amiable service dispels La Strada's diva vibe, and the decor is hip, yet comfortable.

620 Liberty Ave., Downtown, 412-697-2800.

MOST ROMANTIC RESTAURANT: THE HYEHOLDE

The lighting is dim, and burning logs shift and snap in the high stone fireplace. The service is professional and unobtrusive, the music and conversation the barest murmur. It seems like every table here is in a special corner.

With its hunting-lodge-hidden-in-the-woods atmosphere (even though it's only yards away from a business park and Business Route 60), the Hyeholde is a Pittsburgh classic and a charming indulgence.

The menu constantly changes to reflect seasonality, and the desserts are utterly sensual and lavish enough for lovers to share.

The Hyeholde's year-old casual dining component, The Round Room, is also a wonderful space: crackling fires, plush couches, like a ski lodge in Sun Valley. The food -- lots of slow-simmered meats and fragrant stews -- is also lovely.

190 Hyeholde Drive, Moon, 412-264-3116.

BEST "PITTSBURGH STAPLES WITH A GOURMET TWIST": LA RECETTE ON THE RIVER'S EDGE

Are rivers and meat two things you think of when you think of Pittsburgh? We do. T. Phillips Iarrapino, owner of La Recette on the River's Edge, takes these basics and makes them sing in an elegant dining space perched on the banks of the Allegheny River. A perfect Caesar salad, Crab Hoelzel, prime rib, rack of lamb and a dish we nominate for most decadent in the city (see "Most Luxurious Dish," below) are the classics given a contemporary makeover, an herb crust here, a dusting of Moroccan spices there.

If there were a "Sasquatch Staples With A Gourmet Twist" category, Sarah would nominate the wild salmon and caviar, wilderness on a white plate.

4616 Allegheny River Blvd., Verona, 412-793-6167.

BEST FATHER-SON COLLABORATION: BOCCONCINO

Sharpsburg is Pittsburgh's Italian restaurant row, and Bocconcino is the neighborhood's shining star. Father and son Gino and Benedetto Croce bring years and years of experience to this small, unpretentious trattoria, specializing in the freshest and simplest from the sea. Try the succulent baked veal/chicken cannelloni, the lobster ravioli or any fish special. And don't forget to order the exquisite Grand Marnier souffle at the beginning of your meal.

908 Main St., Sharpsburg, 412-781-5670

BEST COMEBACK (LITERALLY, FROM THE ASHES): SOBA

It's still hip, still trendy, still using great local produce, still vegetarian-friendly, but the interior is changed -- for the better. Check out the river rock walls and indoor two-story waterfall. Run your fingers along the bright beaded curtains. Sip a large martini and order from the eclectic, upscale pan-Asian menu.

5847 Ellsworth Ave., Shadyside, 412-362-5656.

BEST PLACE TO MAKE A DEAL: MORTON'S.

It reeks of testosterone and expensive cigars, the red meat is the best, and it's so expensive that you'd better darn well work during dinner so you can write it off as billable hours.

625 Liberty Ave., Downtown, 412-261-7141.

BEST PLACE TO GET A DEAL (IN WINE, BY THE GLASS): THE PINES TAVERN; VALLOZZI'S.

Pines Tavern's 40 by-the-glass selections give you a lot to choose from; its wine flights are great too ($9.95). Ernie Vallozzi's also has lots of by-the-glass selections from its in-depth wine cellar, and wine flights there are $7.95.

Pines Tavern: 5018 Bakerstown Road, Pine, 724-625-3252

Vallozzi's: Route 30, Greensburg, 724-836-7663.

MOST LUXURIOUS DISH(ES):

La Recette's indulgent Frenched Veal Chop, one fat chop served with seared foie gras and morels, bathed in a balsamic pinot noir syrup. Or, Isabela on Grandview's beet angel hair pasta with lobster, creme fraiche and three kinds of caviar.

Isabela on Grandview: 1318 Grandview Ave., Mount Washington, 412-431-5882.

BEST DISH TO ORDER IF YOU'RE REALLY HUNGRY

Try the ultra-rich and mountainous Seafood Pappardalle Pasta at Olive Press or any of the huge pasta dishes at Mezzanotte, especially the meaty ragu.

Or, if you're looking for cheap, exotic eats, order the super-puffy bhotura bread, ripping off crisp chunks and using them as pliable spoons to ladle steaming chana masala and coconut sauce into your mouth, at Udipi Cafe.

Olive Press: Hyatt Regency Hotel, 1111 Airport Blvd., 724-899-6185.

Mezzanotte: 4621 Liberty Ave., Bloomfield, 412-688-8070.

Udipi Cafe: 4141 Old William Penn Highway, Monroeville, 412-373-5581.

BEST DISH TO ORDER IF YOU WANT TO EAT LIGHTLY:

Pines' Tavern's fresh salads with grilled figs and other good things, doused with dressings like champagne vinaigrette with essence of blood oranges.

PLACE TO CARRY A BIG WAD OF CASH: VIVO

It's one of the most expensive restaurants in the Pittsburgh area, and it doesn't take credit cards. But chef and owner Sam DiBattista's creative, intense food is worth it.

565 Lincoln Ave., Bellevue, 412-761-9500.

BEST PEOPLE WATCHING: LUMA'S

You might not see celebrities here, but there are Fox Chapel trophy wives, Tony and Carmela Soprano look-alikes, aging hippies and a blue-haired little old lady or two. Oh, the humanity.

8 Brilliant Ave., Aspinwall, 412-781-0355 or 412-781-4399.

BEST HAMBURGER BESIDES TESSARO'S:

Aspinwall Grille, Aspinwall (ask for the Grille Burger); Gab and Eat, Carnegie (lunch only); Fat Heads, South Side (22 different burger toppings to choose from).

Aspinwall Grille: 211 Commercial Ave., Aspinwall, 412-782-6542.

Gab and Eat: 1073 Washington Ave., 412-276-8808.

Fat Heads South Shore Saloon: 1805 E. Carson St., 412-431-7433.

Tessaro's: 4601 Liberty Ave., Bloomfield, 412-682-6809.

BEST HOT DOG: FRANKFURTER'S

Hot dog perfection, prepared with pride by Marty Anderson and wife Mary, using locally made wieners and homemade sides. There are old-fashioned Boylan's sodas (Sarah likes grape) and dozens of different mustards to choose from, if you choose to order plain instead of a dog heavy with delicious toppings. Try the chili dog, slaw dog or an extra-crispy fried bologna sandwich.

564 Lincoln Ave., Bellevue, 412-459-0400.

BEST SUSHI VALUE: NAGOYA

It's big sushi and ordering a lot of it won't break the bank. Nagoya serves very fresh, fun sushi in a pleasant dining room. Owners John and Jenny Zhang also cater.

254 Freeport Road, Blawnox, 412-828-8819.

BEST COME-ON: THAI ME UP

"You are bound to like it," the menu says. The South Side's new Thai joint has walls of every color, mix-and-match furniture and hot food that's simple and fresh for a low, low price. Try the spicy basil noodles or anything covered in the excellent peanut sauce.

1925 E. Carson St., South Side, 412-488-8893.

Sarah Billingsley can be reached at sbillingsley@post-gazette.com or 412-263-1661. Mackenzie Carpenter can be reached at mcarpenter@post-gazette.com or 412-263-1949.