In Pittsburgh, there are so many opportunities to eat well that my list of them has spilled over from last week into this. For the list, my friend and fellow cook Nancy Hanst and I put our heads together.
Sweetie Sweetie, in Edgewood, is so authentic a neighborhood bakery that it could go into the Smithsonian Institution as a prototype. The screen door is in constant motion as folks enter and leave with their purchases, having exchanged a few pleasantries with one or other of the friendly women behind the glass front display cases. In those cases, each shelf displays but isn't crammed with baked goods that you yearn to make your own. David Green, the friendly baker, the shape of a cookie jar, comes from the kitchen to talk to his many admirers. It was a friend of mine who turned me onto Sweetie-Sweetie. She had bought a poppy-seed coffee cake ($4.50) that she thought was outstanding, and I subsequently did, too. If you want one, it's best to reserve. This is not a mass production operation, and everything is made fresh daily. Come early and allow time to look around. You might fancy the orange coffee cake, and some delicious brownies filled with chocolate chips and walnuts ($1 each), and orange cranberry muffins ($1 each) that were moving out the door pretty fast on the day of my visit, as were the bacon-Cheddar scones ($1.25).
Sweetie Sweetie, 1103 S. Braddock Ave., Edgewood, 412-243-7730. Open from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesdays through Fridays; 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturdays; and 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sundays. BreadWorks bread is available.
Pinot gris wine (inspired by white burgundy) is just right for summer sipping. The taste is clean and crisp, somewhat dry, with a lingering flavor of fruits. The one we enjoyed recently is from Chehalem Winery in Newberg, Ore. Chehalem is a local Indian word meaning "gentle land." Ripe pear and bright lemon flavors are apparent in this wine, along with a dash of peppery ginger. The price is $14.99 at Dreadnought Imports, 2013 Penn Ave., Strip District.
Six months ago, the Mancinis moved a branch of their bakery under the Robert Wholey market awning at 1711 Penn Ave., Strip District. Now, the Mancini boys with their cousin, who together are running the store, have moved their fresh baked sandwich buns inside the fish market. The two families, both of whom got their start in McKees Rocks, (the Mancinis' main bakery is still there) have joined to make an outstanding fish sandwich: $4.95 for cod, $4.25 for whiting.
"Eating this combination of Wholey's fish with Mancini's fresh baked bread is a Pittsburgh thing," the two families agree. They compare it to the Steelers playing in Heinz Field. Wholey's: 412-391-3737.
There are some nights when you need help getting dinner to the table on time. For those occasions Lidia Bastianich, owner of Lidia's restaurant, 1400 Smallman St., Strip District, offers some assistance. Her three styles of ready-made pasta sauce -- Garden Vegetable; Zesty Onion and Tuscan Pepper; and Italian Tomato with fresh herbs -- are available at Pennsylvania Macaroni Co. (2012 Penn Ave.), $5.99 for a 26-ounce jar, enough for four. Nothing beats a homemade slow-simmered sauce, but these are good, especially when you follow Lidia's advice on how to serve them. Her suggestion is to bring the sauce to a boil, transfer half of it to a skillet in which you've heated a tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil, add the drained, cooked pasta and toss with 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Serve on warm plates topped with additional sauce, and pass more cheese. If you have parsley, chop some to sprinkle on top. It makes the sauce look even fresher.
Larry Lagattuta, owner of Enrico Biscotti, 2022 Penn Ave., Strip District, will open Enrico's Ristorante in the former La Charcuterie, 5863 Ellsworth Ave., Shadyside. According to Remy Drabkin, manager of Enrico in the Strip, the wood-burning brick oven in which most foods on the breakfast, lunch and dinner menus will be cooked is on its way from Italy. Official opening date is July 1.
This column's recent survey of afternoon teas, Downtown and in the East End, now expands to include Upper St. Clair, Penn Hills and Sewickley. Each has a tea room that readers of this column recommend.
Common Ground Cafe is run by partners Danielle Bucklew, Patty Toner and Patty Ruscello. These are party people who, in addition to serving breakfast, light lunch and afternoon tea, provide a space for just about every kind of get-together in which their customers are interested. They will help plan a children's theme party, a bridal or baby showers, and offer space and refreshments for bridge clubs, book clubs, private functions and seminars. Whoever comes for whatever reason should inquire about the house's special Cloud Cake, a chiffon cake baked in a jelly roll pan on the premises and rolled with a filling appropriate to the season, such as fresh strawberry, lemon, chocolate and chocolate-raspberry. A sampling of the cake is included in the afternoon tea, $17.95 per person.
The Common Ground Cafe, 1580 McLaughlin Run Road, Upper St. Clair, on the Orange Belt; 412-257-1345. Hours: 7:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Mondays through Fridays; 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays.
Lavender Hill restaurant, located in a grove of lavender and housed in a 100-year-old turn-of-the-century Penn Hills house, offers lunch and afternoon tea, Mondays through Saturdays. (Tea is by reservation only.) Bridal and baby showers, children and adult birthday parties, or anniversary celebrations can be arranged in advance. All food served is prepared on the premises. Teas are priced at $8.50, $9.50 and $11.50. They include the traditional assortment of finger sandwiches, scones and pastries accompanied by freshly brewed tea or coffee.
A sit-down brunch is served on Sundays. Dinner is served Fridays and Saturdays, by reservation only. Dinner parties for 15 or more can also be arranged.
Lavender Hill Restaurant, 7505 Saltsburg Road. For information and reservations: Martha Burkholder, proprietor, at 412-798-0701.
Sewickley Victorian Tea Parlour specializes in Victorian tea parties (soup is added to a menu that includes finger sandwiches, scones and dessert). Showers and birthday parties for all ages are a specialty here, and reservations are necessary. All food served is made daily in the restaurant kitchen. According to Jennifer Adwar, owner with her husband, Jason, "customers who come on the right day may meet our newest and most popular addition to the tea parlor, our 3-month-old son, Jacob."
Sewickley Victorian Tea Parlour, 431 Beaver St. For information and reservations: 412-749-7828. Hours are 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Wednesdays through Saturdays.
Marilyn McDevitt Rubin can be reached at mrubin@post-gazette.com or 412-263-1749.
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