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Sunday, January 16, 2000
By Marilyn McDevitt Rubin, Post-Gazette Staff Writer
Richard and Eleanor Lesnak of Sewickley spent their New Year's holiday in Paris. On Dec. 30, they had dinner at Taillevent, a three-star restaurant that many, including me, believe to be the best restaurant in Paris. Three years before, while dining at Taillevent, they decided it was where they wanted to spend New Year's Eve 1999. They spoke to owner Jean-Claude Vrinat.
"Ah, Monsieur, Madame," said Vrinat with regret, "but the room is already full."
It remained full because such prestigious reservations have a value beyond gold. When the waiting list didn't budge, Vrinat wrote them suggesting dinner on Dec. 30, when he and their favorite waiter, Jean-Marie Ancher, now promoted to premier maître d'hôtel, could oversee the service of their meal.
And so it was agreed.
Back in Pittsburgh, over eggs and hash browns at Jo Jo's in the Strip District, we discussed their recent adventure.
"At Taillevent they treat their guests as though they were family," says Richard Lesnak, a former math professor at Robert Morris College, now enjoying his retirement. Ellie Lesnak, who worked 30 years with the Aristech Chemical Co., is retired as well.
"Bonsoir, bonsoir, Madame Lesnak, Monsieur Lesnak."
Ancher greeted them by name as they entered the door after an absence of 1 1/2 years and heaven knows how many customers later, and he observed, "Madame has changed the style of her hair."
Relieved of their coats and ushered to their table, they were presented with a glass of champagne, but not before the glasses are examined by the sommelier and found suitable. And so it goes at Taillevent, as the large staff monitors every element for guests whom it is their responsibility to please. Gougere, those lovely bite-size paté a choux cheese pastries on a silver platter, were presented with the wine.
Here from the printed menu is the meal that followed: duck foie gras with spicy chutney accompaniment; ravioli with black truffles and a morel mushroom infusion, sea scallops Saint-Jacques on a bed of saffron potatoes, roast lamb accompanied by artichokes, assorted perfectly ripe cheeses from Provence, napoléon with exotic fruit, and, as a second dessert, a meltingly soft chocolate cake flavored with cardamom.
The Lesnaks chose two wines to accompany dinner, a 1992 Puligny-Montrachet, Laflaire, white burgundy and a 1990 (vintage of the century in Burgundy) red, Nuit St. George, Premier Cru -- Boillot. When the last crumb was cleared and the last drop drunk, fresh glasses appeared. Monsieur Vrinat came to chat and to pour from a bottle of aged Taillevent Champagne-Amagnac. The bottle was then left at the table for the Lesnaks to pour if they chose. The meal had taken more than three hours.
Taillevent restaurant cellars are famous and said to contain 130,000 bottles of wine, an inventory conservatively estimated at $6 million. Les Caves Taillevent, a wine store with an excellent reputation, established by the restaurant owner more than a dozen years ago, offers choices from more than 300,000 bottles, a few dating to 1848.
Asked about their bill, the Lesnaks are reluctant to discuss what they'd paid.
"People have different interests," explains Lesnak. "We'd rather have a lovely meal and a good wine than go to the theater or buy a piece of art. We both worked hard and saved for our retirement. Our kids are grown. We have our health and a hobby -- eating well."
Having stated his case, he confesses: "The dinner cost $115 per person. The two bottles of wine another $200. Had we dined at Taillevent on New Year's Eve, we would have paid, and were prepared to pay, $550 for dinner, a price per person that did not include wine."
Concerned how this might be perceived by others whose interests don't match their own, the Lesnaks talked about a kind of philanthropy that they have worked out. They tithe and make a variety of charitable contributions that reflect their travel expenses.
As someone who also travels -- and without knowing that others made such charitable contributions -- I operate on the same plan. It must be a common thing. In my case a portion of calculated expenses goes to Doctors Without Borders.
The Lesnaks took their first trip abroad to celebrate Richard's 50th birthday.
They are partial to Paris, where they stay at the Hotel De La Trémoille, described by Richard Lesnak as "about 200 yards from where Princess Diana was killed. We made our New Year's hotel reservation for the year 2000 four years ago. We were told by the manager that ours was the longest standing reservation on the books. He sent us a bottle of champagne."
"We're really stuck on France," says Ellie Lesnak. "The women are so elegant, the city is so beautiful, and the hospitality so sincere."
Walking back to their hotel New Year's Eve after an excellent meal at Jacques Cagna, La Rotisserie d'en face restaurant, they followed the river in sight of the Tour Eiffel.
"Suddenly the tower seemed to explode," says Richard Lesnak. "We thought the city was under siege. There were police everywhere. Then we realized it was the celebration. Never have we seen fireworks of the like we saw that night. We hold to the memory until our return to France."
1/2 teaspoon salt
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Combine salt, butter and 1 cup of water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat stirring with wooden spoon. Quickly remove pan from heat and add flour all at once.
Beat vigorously to create a smooth dough. Reheat 1 minute over medium heat, stirring, to allow dough to dry just a bit. Quickly transfer dough to bowl of electric mixer. Add eggs and half of cheese; beat at medium speed until thoroughly incorporated. The dough should still be warm.
Use a tablespoon or spoon dough into a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch tube. Squeeze into 2-inch rounds about 2 inches apart on 2 nonstick baking sheets. Sprinkle tops with remaining cheese. Bake one sheet at a time, until puffs are golden, about 20 minutes. Makes about 40.
1/4 pound unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces
1 cup minus 1 1/2 table-spoons flour, sifted
4 large eggs
3/4 cup freshly grated Gruyère cheese