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With a name like Gretchen and a long-standing membership in Teutonia Mannerchor on the North Side, it's no surprise I'm a big fan of German food. One of my all-time favorite dishes is spaetzle, squiggly little dumplings made from a thick batter of egg, milk and flour.

Tossed with melted butter or smothered in gravy, spaetzle are traditionally served as a side dish. Yet as this hearty recipe demonstrates, they also can be the star attraction when paired with fried sausage, onions and cheese.

If you don't have a spaetzle maker, don't worry: It's just as easy to push the dough with a rubber spatula through a slotted spoon or the holes of a colander. Just make sure the holes are wide enough (at least 1/4 inch) to make a nice-sized dumpling.

• 1 pound smoked kielbasa or other Polish sausage, cut into 3/4-inch chunks
• 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 large red onion, halved and thinly sliced
• 1 large thyme sprig
• Kosher salt
• 2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 3/4 to 1 cup whole milk
• 2 cups grated Emmentaler cheese (I used Swiss)
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, lightly brown kielbasa until golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer to plate. Melt butter in skillet. Stir in onion and thyme, and stir briefly to coat with butter. Cook onion, without stirring, until dark brown, about 5 minutes. Add pinch of salt and cook on low heat until very soft and caramelized, 20 to 30 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons water and scrape up any browned bits from bottom of the pan. Transfer onion to bowl.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. In a large bowl, combine flour, 1 teaspoon salt and nutmeg. In a separate bowl, whisk together eggs and 3/4 cup milk. Pour egg mixture into flour mixture and stir well. Batter should be fairly wet, with a consistency slightly thicker than pancake batter; if it's too dry, add more milk.

Spread a clean dish towel on a flat work surface next to the stove. Working over the pot of boiling water, press batter through a spaetzel maker or ricer, or use a rubber spatula to push it through a colander with holes at least 1/4-inch wide. Drop dough into water. When dumplings rise to surface (1 to 2 minutes), use a slotted spoon to transfer to towel.

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Toss spaetzel and kielbasa in the bowl with the onions, and add 11/2 cups cheese and the pepper. Spread into a 2-quart gratin dish. Sprinkle top of the casserole with remaining 1/2 cup cheese. Bake until golden and bubbling, 25 to 30 minutes.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

-- Melissa Clark via The New York Times

First Published: January 11, 2012, 5:00 a.m.