Among the suspect superlatives and dubious distinctions that can be issued and taken along the lines of a passive-aggressive backhanded compliment: Cleveland Browns MVP. Head Trump media handler. Top Hillary IT tech. Chief Aleppo advisor to Gary Johnson. Negan and/or Ramsey Bolton’s biggest fan.
And, best restaurant on the North Shore.
Because, with a few exceptions, since PNC Park and Heinz Field had their opening seasons in 2001, historically the dining developments along the river have mainly been chains that mostly peddle overpriced garbage food to hotel guests, cubicle drones, buzzed-up concertgoers and gameday galoots. (Disclaimer: I count myself among the latter three groups.)
So amid this glorified office park, it was pure oxygen when The Foundry Table & Tap opened in August as a completely independent restaurant and brought with it elevated gastropub fare from former Duquesne Club sous chef Michael Godlewski, along with craft beer and cocktails.
The location has been something of a revolving door of failed restaurants, and that’s not at all helped by an odd layout that resembles a dumbbell: a nice-sized front bar and a huge dining room and patio area that are completely separate, connected only by a long narrow hallway, with doors to the kitchen and bathrooms. It makes almost no sense. Despite that, The Foundry has an attractive refurbished space using reclaimed barn wood and a constellation of dangling Edison bulbs.
The menu is thoughtful and interesting, if somewhat modest in scope and at times inconsistent in execution.
In a city where the manner in which pierogies are prepared can be a window to the soul, the seasonal roasted pumpkin pierogies ($8) are as fine a gourmet dumpling as you’ll find. With a lightly curried pumpkin flavor and a subtle fig yogurt (taking the place of the traditional sour cream), they’re topped with toasted pumpkin seeds to add a little crunchy consistency. Worth the trip alone.
The Korean fried wings ($9) are of ample proportion and juicy, with a crispy skin. A gochujang (hot chili pepper) sauce gives a clean, medium, sweet heat. The wings are topped with toasted sesame seeds and scallions.
The pickle-brined fried chicken sandwich ($13) was simple and delicious: juicy chicken with a crackling flavorful skin, garnished only with dill pickle and green goddess dressing on a fresh challah bun.
Among larger entrees, the grass-fed flatiron steak ($24) was a perfect ruby red medium rare with a rich black garlic hollandaise, complemented with a nice medley of roasted vegetables: sweet sunchokes, earthy maitake mushrooms and bitter Brussels sprouts.
Some dishes weren’t as successful. The filet of black cod ($22) sounded interesting, as it was presented with a papaya vinaigrette, tamarind glaze, bok choy, coconut, Thai basil, jalapeño and toasted peanuts, but it was kind of all over the place flavor-wise, and the fish was undercooked. Likewise, the deep-fried cauliflower side dish ($5) was a whiff — it was pretty limp and drowning in a chorizo aioli.
Across multiple visits, from quiet weeknights to harried post-Pitt Panthers and Steelers game crowds, the service was consistently friendly and professional. The draft list is above average, as is the cocktail slate and selection of liquor and wine.
On a strip full of gimmicky offerings largely driven by beer, bread and circus, here’s hoping more folks find their way to The Foundry for a quality nip and a nosh.
The Foundry Table & Tap: 381 North Shore Drive, North Shore; 412-930-0744; thefoundrypgh.com.
Dan Gigler: dgigler@post-gazette.com; Twitter @gigs412.
First Published: October 27, 2016, 4:00 a.m.
