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West African Peanut Soup.
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Cold weather is the time to put the soup on

Miriam Rubin

Cold weather is the time to put the soup on

’Tis the time to keep New Year’s resolutions and mine was to eat more vegetables — even if I can’t pick them from my garden. A great way to get plenty of vegetables is to simmer them into a hearty bowl of soup. Plus, baby, it’s cold outside, so how many more reasons do you need to eat soup? And it’s a good idea to get protein from sources other than meat. There’s a whole world of nonmeat alternatives out there.

Here are a few soup recipes, collected from some good, smart cookbooks, using beans and legumes, a little cheese and some peanut butter, also a legume.

Kathy Gunst’s latest book is the soup-centric “Soup Swap,” a collection of soup recipes making great use of vegetables — but not solely vegetarian. She also includes toppings, sides and tips for sharing and transporting. Some folks make soup swaps a regular event, as does Ms. Gunst with her neighbors. It’s an easy way to entertain and build community.

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“Turns out,” she writes, “there is a camaraderie that comes from sharing soup on cold winter evenings that has tied us together in an unlikely bond.”

Her recipes make generous amounts, handy even if you’re not sharing. A big batch of soup is a great thing to have in the fridge or stored in the freezer.

Among the tasty-sounding recipes in this book, I just had to do the ’Burgh fave of beans and greens. Her version is white beans with tons of escarole. I’m also intrigued by her Parsnip and Cauliflower “Vichyssoise” and a Vietnamese-Style Asparagus Soup with Noodles and Spicy Peanut Paste.

It’s always nice when you can whip up a soup or any recipe, from stuff that’s on hand. This is where “The Kitchen Shelf” cookbook by the British team of Eve O’Sullivan and Rosie Reynolds comes in. Each chapter centers on a pantry staple such as a can of chickpeas, a box of pasta, a bar of chocolate. Add a few more ingredients, and there’s dinner or maybe dessert.

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Their West African Peanut Soup came together easily and had a creamy mouth-feel that tamped down the spice. From the chapter highlighting canned tomatoes, I’m definitely making their Roasted Sweet Potato, Chickpea and Tomato Stew with Garlic Yogurt. From the chocolate chapter, there’s this irresistible ditty: Olive Oil and Sea Salt Chocolate Toasties (basically pan-grilled bread with a chocolate filling).

Holly Herrick’s newest book is “Mashed,” chock-full of clever ideas beyond mashed potatoes, although that’s where it starts. We include her delicious red lentil soup with mashed chunks of bright orange carrots.

Her exploration includes recipes you don’t consider in the mashed category, such as Roasted Red Pepper and Feta Whip, which would be a super spread with crackers to serve with soup. There’s Roasted Applesauce, which bakes on a sheet pan instead of simmering in a saucepan. Back in the soup vein, there’s Creamed Onion Soup, graced with a touch of sweet vermouth. Sounds bracing.

Of course you can add meat to any soup, but with these versatile and super-flavorful recipes, why would you bother? Soup’s on.

Miriam Rubin: mmmrubin@gmail.com or on Twitter @mmmrubin.

Escarole and White Bean Soup with Parmesan Cheese

PG tested

Packed with the slightly bitter bite of escarole, this soup will warm you to your toes. The flavor is enhanced with a Parmesan rind that’s fished out before serving. Vegans and strict vegetarians, leave out the Parmesan or use a soy alternative. It’ll still be good.

2 pounds (about 2 large heads) escarole

1½ tablespoons olive oil

2 medium leeks, sliced ½-inch-thick, well rinsed or 2 medium sweet onions, sliced

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2½ teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves, divided

Sea or kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 cups freshly cooked cannellini beans, drained, or 2 15-ounce cans, rinsed and drained

7 cups vegetable broth, divided

Parmesan cheese rind (optional), plus ¼ cup grated Parmesan for serving

Rinse the escarole, coarsely chop outer leaves, finely chop inner leaves. Put all in a salad spinner, rinse again to remove grit and spin dry.

In large stockpot or Dutch oven, warm oil over medium heat. Add leeks or onion and garlic and cook, stirring, 5 minutes. Add half the thyme and season with salt and pepper.

With food processor or blender, puree 1 cup beans, remaining thyme and 1 cup broth until smooth. Add this bean puree and remaining 2 cups beans to pot. Add all escarole (or add in batches) and cook, stirring, 4 to 5 minutes until leaves are just wilted.

Add remaining 6 cups broth and Parmesan rind (if using); raise heat to high and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, 15 minutes until all escarole is tender and flavors have blended. Season to taste. Remove rind from soup. Ladle into bowls and serve hot, sprinkled with grated Parmesan.

Makes 8 servings

Adapted from “Soup Swap: Comforting Recipes to Make and Share” by Kathy Gunst. (Chronicle; September 2016)

Spicy Red Lentil and Carrot Soup

PG tested

Yes, this is spicy. Add a smaller amount of smoked chipotle first, as you can always stir more in later. You also can top this with a cooling spoonful of plain Greek yogurt along with the scallion and mint garnish. This freezes well. Vegans, leave out the butter.

1 tablespoon each butter and olive oil

1 shallot, finely chopped

2 large garlic cloves, minced

2 large carrots (or 4 medium), peeled and sliced 1/8-inch thick (2 cups)

1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground smoked chipotle chili pepper

Pinch crushed red pepper flakes

2 cups red lentils, picked over and rinsed

6 cups low-sodium vegetable stock

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint leaves

2 scallions, trimmed and finely chopped

In large, heavy saucepan or Dutch oven, melt butter and oil over medium heat. Add shallot, garlic, carrots, salt, pepper, cumin, chipotle and crushed red pepper. Cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes, reducing heat if spices start to stick to pan.

Add lentils and broth; bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until lentils have cooked to a pulp and carrots are very soft, 15 to 20 minutes.

Mash briefly with “a manual masher” (potato masher) to break the carrots into soft chunks. Reheat if necessary. Serve hot with a sprinkle of fresh mint and scallions in each bowl. Add a little water when reheating.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Adapted from “Mashed: Beyond the Potato” by Holly Herrick (Gibbs Smith; August 2016)

West African Peanut Soup

PG tested

To make this soup even heartier and more of a meal, you could add a scoop of freshly cooked rice. Or do as the authors suggest and add a can of drained black beans and “turn it into a wholesome stew.”

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced

1 red bell pepper, cut into short strips

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds, “bashed” with mortar and pestle

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, undrained

1 (13.66-ounce) can coconut milk

1 vegetarian bouillon cube, crumbled and dissolved in 1 cup boiling water

1/4 cup smooth or crunchy peanut butter

4 loosely packed cups spinach

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

In large, heavy saucepan or Dutch oven, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion and bell pepper and cook, stirring often, 5 to 8 minutes until tender and starting to color. Add garlic, crushed red pepper, cumin and cinnamon and cook, stirring, 1 minute.

Add tomatoes, coconut milk and dissolved bouillon; stir well and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer 8 minutes.

Stir in peanut butter until dissolved, then stir in spinach and cook about 2 minutes until wilted. Season well with salt and pepper, ladle into bowls and serve hot.

Makes 4 servings

Adapted from “The Kitchen Shelf” by Eve O’Sullivan and Rosie Reynolds (Phaidon; May 2016)

First Published: January 11, 2017, 5:00 a.m.

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West African Peanut Soup.  (Miriam Rubin)
Spicy Red Lentil and Carrot Soup.  (Miriam Rubin)
Escarole and White Bean Soup with Parmesan Cheese.  (Yvonne Duivenvoorden)
Miriam Rubin
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