Opening day for big Burrito's new restaurant in the Strip District was set for May 1.
"Nothing is ever set in stone except for the plumbing," says Bill Fuller, corporate chef for the restaurant group. "The new opening date is June 1."
John Heller, Post-Gazette
Chef Greg Alauzen, executive chef of the coming Eleven, holds a plate of filet of beef with peas, Maytag blue cheese and bread pudding with a red wine essence. At left is sous chef Derek Stevens.And it's now official. The name of the new restaurant is Eleven.
Why? Since 1994, big Burrito has opened pan-Asian Soba, Japanese Umi, international Casbah, tropical Kaya and six funky Mad Mexes. That's 10. The new place at 1100 Smallman St. will be number 11.
"That's a good number," says Fuller. "We'll have 11 appetizers, 11 entrees, 11 desserts, probably 11 martinis and, if we count water, bread and butter, 11 courses on the tasting menu, too."
Construction has been blitzing along since February. With the hiring of Greg Alauzen as executive chef, the concept was fine-tuned and tightened. That got the action rolling. Plans were bid out, the contractor hired and work began. "Unlike other openings, this is the first time we are 'hands-off,' from plans to construction, and it's a new feeling," Fuller says. "The first day of demolition, there's Valente Casciato and the guys from Casciato Construction. All energy, Valente's got a crowbar in one hand, a cigarette in the other, and he's yelling at his crew. We knew we were in good hands.
"Now the wiring is finished, the plumbing is roughed in, the HVAC [heating, ventilation, air conditioning] is almost done. I hope everything is where it's supposed to be, because now we're ready for the pretty part."
Riva Sloan of Axis Architecture Studio has done the architecture and design for all of the big Burrito restaurants except Umi. Expect to see her signature glass, fabrics and metal work.
On board
Big Burrito won the lottery on personnel. "I had my eye on three chefs," Fuller says. "I figured I'd recruit at least one of them. Then all three -- Greg Alauzen, Derek Stevens and Daniel Mosedale -- said yes."
What was the bait for these chefs to leave their prestigious positions?
Executive chef Alauzen: "I was executive chef at The Steelhead Grill for seven years. Things were changing there, and I don't want any part of a regular Joe place. Big Burrito is exciting."
Executive sous chef Derek Stevens: "I was at the Duquesne Club for two years, where I learned about the challenges of a private club, butchering and organizing large events. But previous to that, I worked as sous chef, then executive chef at Casbah for big Burrito. I wanted to get back to what I consider the best team in town."
Special projects chef Daniel Mosedale: "I was executive chef at Pittsburgh's Original Fish Market restaurant in the Westin Convention Center Hotel. I'll be tweaking the Asian items and working where needed for now. My goal is to open my own restaurant some day. Big Burrito is the place to be."
Jack Paladino, former general manager at Soba, is the food and beverage director; Michele Lavelle-Denk, former general manager at Casbah, is the general manager, and Michael McCoy is the wine steward.
The biggest question for the restaurant team was always, What kind of restaurant do we want this to be?
The search for an answer began last August. There were information-gathering missions to New York for big Burrito principals Tom Baron and Cary Klein, along with Fuller, Alauzen and Paladino. They ate early and often. In a single day, the quintet could hit iconic eateries such as Grammercy Tavern, Union Square Cafe, Gotham Bar and Grill, boom, boom, boom, to soak up ambiance, service and menu.
They knew they wanted their restaurant to be one that wasn't stuffy or formal, but not too casual, either. It would be a place where everybody could feel comfortable, yet it would be a cool, happening place with a good buzz.
Fuller says, "We look at Eleven as the start of new phase for what we want to do as restaurateurs."
The next goal was to move away from the ethnic-based menus of their existing operations, to create a contemporary American menu. That means serving high-quality ingredients and fresh, local and seasonal foods as much as possible on a menu of dishes redolent of uniquely American flavor.
Pickled eggs
The first piece of the menu fell into place during a Manhattan visit. Fuller and Alauzen were sitting at the bar at chef Anita Lo's Anissa restaurant. In front of them is a bowl of pickled eggs.
"I love pickled eggs," says one.
"That's such a Pittsburgh thing," says the other.
"Let's have pickled eggs," say both. "Yeah!"
And they were off.
Alauzen has his work cut out for him. He is designing menus for the bar, dinner and a five-course tasting menu. A different tasting menu will be offered at the six-seat chef's table in the middle of the kitchen action. And there will be menus for banquets and parties.
Alauzen is testing appetizers and entrees in the Soba kitchen in Shadyside. Here are a few starters that are penciled in: Potato-crusted Jumbo Sea Scallops, Seared Fois Gras with Rhubarb Quiche, Roasted Chicken Consomme with Black Truffle and Potato Pierogi, a Surf and Turf of Traditional Steak Tartare and Warm Lobster Fricasse, and Creamy New England Seafood Chowder.
On the entree list, there's something for everyone. Filet of beef with Maytag Bleu Cheese Bread Pudding, Smoked Pork Chop with Lyonnaise Potato, Amish Country Chicken Breast with Sauteed Spinach, Grilled Buffalo T-bone with Poached Marrow, Chesapeake Seafood Tasting with Hush Puppies, Barbecued Ahi Tuna and Elysian Fields Farm Lamb with Creamy Buttermilk Polenta.
Don't expect to see the ubiquitous much-handled food on architecturally stacked plates. "We want perfectly cooked, not manipulated, food," Alauzen says. All bread and pastry will be made in-house, according to Alauzen. On one wall of the temperature-controlled bakeshop are floor-to-ceiling windows. Commuters walking to work Downtown will see racks of freshly baked bread.
"We've just hired our pastry chef," he says. She is Barbara Ferguson, formerly in Chicago at Naja restaurant, where she was opening pastry chef.
Jack Paladino is excited about the bar menu and wine and spirits list.
"The bar menu at Eleven will lean towards small plates which, along with the pickled eggs, might include oysters on the half shell, a good burger, Asian tidbits and shrimp cocktail," he says.
Look for 11 martinis, several ciders, a few sakes and 36 wines by the glass. The cellar will house some 150 wines, mostly American, and a number of aged bottles.
The menu range will be competitive with other Pittsburgh downtown eateries. Appetizers will range from $7 to $16, entrees from $20 to the high $30s and the bar menu won't go over $20. Eleven is working with the Cultural District to provide services for theatergoers.
With a huge parking lot across the street, central location and exciting ambiance, they say there's not one excuse for suburbanites to stay in the 'burbs.
The Making of a Restaurant
Part 2: The menu
Next: Murphy's Law rears its ugly head: If anything can go wrong, it will.
John Heller/Post-Gazette
Chef Greg Alauzen, executive chef of the coming Eleven, holds a plate of filet of beef with peas, Maytag blue cheese and bread pudding with a red wine essence. At left is sous chef Derek Stevens.
First Published: April 15, 2004, 4:00 a.m.
