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Sunday, February 02, 2003

GETTING THERE:

Branson, Mo., is about 250 miles southwest of St. Louis and 35 miles south of the Springfield, Mo., airport. From the airport, take U.S. Route 65 south to Route 76 west. Most theaters, hotels and shops are on the western side; the historic district is to the east.

GETTING AROUND:

A rental car is recommended (airport transfers can cost up to $70 one-way for one, $35 per person for two), especially for off-Strip excursions. Traffic along the theater-strewn route is heavy, but you can take a shuttle to the main attractions (ask your hotel for information).

STAYING THERE:

Options are abundant, from high-end to way-low. Most elegant: Chateau on the Lake (415 N. Highway 265; 1-888-333-5253; www.chateauonthelakebranson.com), which overlooks Table Rock Lake and has a fireplace lounge with a Saturday night jazz trio, wine bar, sweets shop, fine dining restaurant and fitness center. Rates begin at $129 for a double with French-country furnishings and a lake view.

For budget lodgings, try the College of the Ozarks. The 15 on-campus rooms are simple and clean -- but at $32 a night for two, who needs adornments? Credit cards are not accepted, and the gates lock at 2 a.m., but the guard will let you in. Information: Good Memorial College Center Building; 1-417-334-6411; www.cofo.edu.

To be closer to the action, the Hillbilly Inn (1-800-535-0739; hillbillyinn.com) sits along the Strip and offers ho-hum rooms, a pool and an adjoining restaurant where you can hear free live music while grazing the breakfast buffet. Rates are from $45 per night.

For other choices, check with the Branson/Lakes Area Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Bureau.

WHERE TO EAT:

The Strip is lined with restaurants, many with all-you-can-gorge buffets that feature fried and sauced items for $10 or so. For upscale dining, try the Chateau on the Lake's Chateau Grille, where you can feast on crab cakes with lobster butter and caviar, filet mignon and grilled vegetable linguine. Entrees are $20 to $30. My favorite, though, was the humble cafeteria at the College of the Ozarks, on the ground level of the Good Memorial College Center Building. For less than $5, you can dine on tasty college fare -- and even make your own waffle cone for dessert.

LIVE MUSIC:

With up to 80 shows to choose from daily, you can't go wrong -- or, well, maybe you can. Some of the performances are so hokey they're painful. Two I sampled: violinist Shoji Tabuchi (3260 Shepherd of the Hills Expressway; 1-417-334-7469; www.shoji.com) and Jim Stafford (3440 W. Highway 76; 1-417-335-8080; www.jimstafford.com), whose variety show is packed with the same punny humor your dad finds funny. Two shows post-Baby Boomers can enjoy: the '70s Music Show (Ain't Misbehavin' Theatre, 110 Barlow; 1-417-335-2700), Legends in Concert (Legends Family Theater, 3216 W. Highway 76; 1-417-332-1305; www.legendsbranson.com) and the Haygoods (Music City Centre, 1835 W. Highway 76, 1-417-332-1575). Ticket prices average $25 to $35.

After-hours spots include Tsunami (3265 Falls Parkway); Club Vegas (inside Lodge of the Ozarks, 3431 W. Highway 76); Ain't Misbehavin' Theatre, starring the Horndogs on weekend nights; B.T. Bones Steakhouse (2280 Shepherd of the Hills Expressway), which offers country rockin' house bands; and Planet Branson (440 Highway 248), a dance club featuring D.J. Vinyl Richy. Cover charges vary from nothing to $5 or so.

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES:

For aquatic sports ranging from bass fishing to scuba diving, head to the warm-water Table Rock Lake. Check the tourism office for outfitters. To mountain-bike in the surrounding parks or to go kayaking or canoeing, seek out Downhill Bikes (1116 W. Highway 76), which will outfit you with gear and maps.

Talking Rocks Cavern (423 Fairy Cave Lane, Reeds Spring; 1-800-600-2283; www.talkingrockscavern.com) offers three levels of caving, from easy walking to hard-core mud-sliding. Prices range from $11.95 to $250 (flat rate for four people) for the hours-long Wild Cave Adventure. Don't wear white.

The Sport Swings is midway between Branson and Springfield, just off Route 65 (look for the giant "SWINGS" painted on the barn roof). Open weekend nights or by appointment (1-417-443-6600). Cost: $10 for unlimited flying.

INFORMATION: Branson/Lakes Area Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Bureau; 1-800-214-3661; www.bransonchamber.com.

-- Andrea Sachs