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You'll become best of friends with William Penn country

Friday, January 25, 2002

By Michael C. Sturges-Yebernetsky

LONDON - Most Americans visiting England, particularly London, often seek out the more popular tourist attractions: Buckingham Palace, Tower of London, Trafalgar Square and Piccadilly Circus, to name a few. But Pennsylvanians may find it worthwhile to head off the beaten track and explore William Penn country, located in the county of Buckinghamshire, a short trip northwest of London.

I have often found the same peace and tranquillity in the British countryside, once home to William Penn and his fellow Quakers, that I had experienced in my boyhood in Clearfield County in Central Pennsylvania.

The quaint, peaceful village of Old Jordans is where William Penn is buried, near the scenes of his early loves and early sorrows.

As we learned from our Pennsylvania history lessons in junior high school, Penn (1644-1718) was the English Quaker who founded the colony of Pennsylvania.

In 1681, King Charles II gave Penn the land known as Pennsylvania as payment of a debt of 15,000 English pounds ($22,000) owed to the estate of Penn's father. Charles was not all that keen onpaying off his debts at the time, yet in his heart he wished to be rid of the Quakers.

For decades, Penn and his fellow Quakers had often been persecuted in England. In fact, Penn was imprisoned for a short time in the Tower of London, where he wrote his most famous book, "No Cross, No Crown."

Penn's belief in religious freedom was evident in his new colony. The extraordinary news that Pennsylvania was to be the home of religious liberty was a chief incentive for tens of thousands of European immigrants to migrate to America.

For a century after its founding, the colony of Pennsylvania was the haven of many harassed peoples, known as the great "melting pot" of humanity.

Penn's English heritage was also evident in the new colony. Twelve Pennsylvania counties are named after English shires -- Bedford, Berks, Bucks, Chester, Cumberland, Huntingdon, Lancaster, Northampton, Northumberland, Somerset, Westmoreland and York. The name of Wilkes-Barre contains the surnames of two liberal celebrities. York, Bedford and Huntingdon were named after British noblemen.

If you want to visit Penn's resting place, the Village of Old Jordans is just 23 miles by car from central London; 30 minutes by train from London's Marylebone Station; and 12 minutes from Heathrow Airport.

The first-time visitor to Old Jordans will find an area steeped in Quaker tradition and values. Ten acres of South Buckinghamshire countryside enclose the Old Jordans Guest House and Conference Centre, the Friends Meeting House, the Mayflower Barn, and the burial ground. All are testimony to the practical mystics of the 17th century who made "Penn Country" their home.

Penn came to meetings many times at Jordans and attended funerals and weddings here. Penn also courted his first wife Gulielma around these lanes.

Only a mile and half down the lane from Old Jordans was the home of John Milton, whose "Paradise Lost" is one of the great works of world literature.

At the Old Jordans Guest House and Conference Centre, the B&B facilities are ideal for tourists wanting to explore "Penn's Country" or to visit London. This old farmhouse, which dates back to the Middle Ages, has 23 bedrooms that include single or double rooms, with provisions for people requiring wheelchair access.

At the elm tables of the historic dining room, visitors can enjoy excellent meals in a very relaxing atmosphere. It was in this very same dining room (which used to be the old farmhouse kitchen) that George Fox, founder of the Quakers, and William Penn often worshipped. But it is the sincere hospitality of the staff that makes visitors feel welcome today.

Not more than 100 yards from the Old Jordans Guest House and Conference Centre is the Mayflower Barn. Are the remains of the most famous ship in American history at Old Jordans in Buckinghamshire? Most historians believe so, although there remain a few skeptics.

The Mayflower barn, built in 1624, may have been constructed from the ship's timbers, from the very Mayflower in which the Pilgrim Fathers sailed to America in 1620. Although many ships at that time were named the Mayflower, there is substantial evidence that the timbers were actually from the Pilgrims' Mayflower.

The Mayflower was broken up south of London in 1624, and her timbers were taken up the Thames River by barge to a point on the river eight miles from Jordans and then transported by road.

The Mayflower barn today is some 90 feet long and 20 feet wide and is timber-framed. If you stand on your head, what you might see is exactly like a ship process of construction. The barn is now used for wedding receptions, concerts, fairs, dances and conferences.

From the Mayflower Barn, walk a few minutes through a beautiful cherry orchard and past a sunken garden and granary to find the Jordans Meeting House and Quaker burial ground. Here lie the burial plots for William Penn and his family.

The Jordans Meeting House was built in 1688 after James II issued a Declaration of Indulgence, allowing for the free exercise of religion in England. It is actively used by Quakers today.

During the summer months, the Jordans Music Club, in its 58th season, performs classical music in the Mayflower Barn on Sunday evenings at 8. For more information on Old Jordans, visit its Web site at www.oldjordans.org.uk.

Another great place to visit in Penn's Country is The Royal Standard of England, at Forty Green, Beaconsfield, Buckinghamshire, about five miles from Old Jordans.

For more than 900 years, the pub has offered shelter to the rich and poor alike. In 1651, Charles II sought refuge here during his flight to France after the Battle of Worcester. The inn at the time was known as Ye Ship. It served as a Royalist headquarters during the English civil war and, after the restoration in 1660, was honored by King Charles with its present title.

Inside the Royal Standard of England, you'll find the King Charles Room, which has recently been restored. The 11th-century timbers and beams make this one of England's showpieces.

Some of the original mud and wattle walls of the 13th century survive, and the whole building is a magnificent example of modern luxury combined with architectural history. Inside the King Charles Room, the visitor can see the room in the roof where King Charles was hidden.

The Royal Standard provides drinks ranging from ales to liquors. Its superb buffet bar is open every day of the year (except Christmas Day) and boasts a magnificent display of foods, including an array of cheeses, home-cooked beef, ham, turkey, chicken, home-baked breads, and meat pies, country pates, quiches and salads.

A visit to Penn's country may well be the highlight of your visit to England.

A native of Clearfield County and retired from the U.S. Coast Guard, Michael C. Sturges-Yebernetsky has lived and worked in London for nearly 14 years.