Raising a glass to Bordeaux's renewal
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BORDEAUX, France -- Beaten up and beaten down, this proud waterfront city badly needed its 21st-century makeover. It sandblasted old building facades, transformed dilapidated port warehouses, and extended its transit system to the poor neighborhood across the bridge. A dynamic young mayor championed new riverside paths to lure bikers and strollers. The results brought worldwide acclaim. Now, skaters zip past crowded cafes on the promenade, students sprawl in the gardens, and tourist snap photos from handsome bridges.
Yes, it's the Pittsburgh story all over again -- but told this time in French. Bordeaux, with its gleaming limestone monuments and its collar of lush vineyards, was named a UNESCO World Heritage city in 2007, culminating a 20-year renewal that coincided with Pittsburgh's.
The basic elements in this tale of two cities are the same: water, recreation and culture. But as I discovered on an Indian summer visit, the Bordelaises interpreted them in a grand 18th-century cityscape. The Miroir d'Eau, an ingenious water feature in front of the Place de la Bourse, reflects the results: magnifique.
Getting there: Bordeaux lies 300 miles southwest of Paris, within easy reach of Atlantic coast resorts. While no U.S. airlines fly direct to Bordeaux's Merignac Airport, Delta Airlines serves Bordeaux through Paris' Charles de Gaulle Airport. Round-trip airfares from Delta and other carriers: about $775 in mid-December. A high-speed (TGV) train route is under construction from Paris, meanwhile, frequent regular train service from Paris' Montparnasse station to Bordeaux's Saint-Jean takes about three hours; adult round-trip tickets from $120.
Closings: Many local museums, shops and restaurants are closed Sunday and Monday; check individual hours.
Hotel: The Regent Grand Hotel Bordeaux (2-5 Place de la Comedie; www.theregentbordeaux.com) commands the city's best location, opposite the historic Grand Theatre. It features meticulous renovation of an 18th-century city block with five-star service. Doubles from 215 euros ($297) and suites run from 485 euros ($670) to 2,000 euros ($2,765). Dining options include La Pressoir D'Argent, recently awarded a Michelin star; the Orangerie; the Victor Bar; and La Brasserie de l'Europe, with an outdoor terrace.
First Published November 28, 2010 12:00 am
