On the Menu: In winter blahs, it's spices to the rescue
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Le Sanctuaire buys its spices directly from farmers, like this fresh nutmeg from Indonesia, which is grown on the family farm of product specialist Fany Setiyo.
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Technically winter has barely begun, but in kitchens we're deep into the season, and I find I'm already in need of a new twist to perk up all those braising greens, thick-skinned squash and sweet root vegetables. Many of my favorite winter recipes, such as Moroccan-inspired stews or Indian-style curries, feature fragrant spices, but when it comes to cooking without a recipe, or making changes to one that calls for ingredients I don't have, I'm wary of experimentation.
Spices are powerful stuff -- too much cinnamon, aleppo pepper or fennel can ruin a dish. But most of the time, I simply don't think the spices I've used have much of an impact.
Happily, my jumbled collection recently expanded to include some secret weapons: Spice blends, ready-made combinations that have stood the test of time. Almost every culinary culture has at least one beloved spice blend, from Chinese five-spice to Ethiopian berbere to Tunisian harissa, which is both a spice blend and a spicy condiment. These blends are both a shortcut to complex flavors and a good introduction to how groups of spices interact.
The ingredients and ratios of spice blends can vary widely. Take Ras el Hanout, the famous Moroccan blend. Spices are an essential element of Moroccan cooking, and are typically purchased from specialized merchants. Abdel Khila, the chef-owner of Kous Kous Cafe in Mt. Lebanon, imports all of his spices directly from a trusted supplier in Morocco. Every merchant has his Ras el Hanout, which translates to "head of the shop," a top secret recipe that incorporates distinctive, personal elements into the fundamental flavors of the blend.
My Ras el Hanout, along with a few other blends, came from Le Sanctuaire, a specialty shop in California that supplies tools and ingredients, including a variety of spices, to some of the country's best restaurants. Le Sanctuaire buys its spices directly from farmers around the world, including an Indonesian farm that is owned and run by the family of Fany Setiyo, Le Sanctuaire's product specialist.
While Le Sanctuaire works primarily with chefs, it also sells many of its spices and all of its blends through its website (www.le-sanctuaire.com) in small containers suitable for the home cook. By working directly with the farms, and holding them to the highest possible standards, Le Sanctuaire is able to process and sell its spices far more quickly than most retailers, resulting in incredibly fresh and vibrant flavors.
First Published January 8, 2012 12:00 am
