Latin American influence gaining momentum in Pittsburgh restaurant scene
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Megan McNeish is owner of Chica Loca Taco in Shadyside. -
Bife steak chimichurri con gallo pinto (Argentina): Grilled marinated skirt steak topped with chimichurri with black beans and rice created by Chef Martin Lamarche, Alma, a new Pan-Latin American restaurant in Regent Square.
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Foods and flavors from Latin America have slowly permeated the Pittsburgh restaurant scene in recent years, at casual spots such as Mexico City and Chicken Latino as well as more upscale establishments including Kaya, Tamari and Yo Rita.
That slow growth is about to explode, with half a dozen new restaurants set to open before the end of this year.
They're popping up in a range of neighborhoods at various price points. Two taco shops have joined the ranks of some of Pittsburgh's best cheap eats. At Smoke Barbeque and Taqueria in Homestead, Jeff Petruso and Nelda Carranco, who relocated from Austin, Texas, have brilliantly combined two great culinary repertoires.
The menu is succinct, but each taco is carefully conceived from the pulled pork with apricot-habanero sauce and caramelized onions to the beef brisket with sauteed onions, hot peppers and barbecue-mustard sauce. Even the vegetarian option of black beans, roasted poblano and corn relish, crispy potatoes and chile de arbol sauce impressed with its varied flavors and contrasting textures.
Everything that can be is made in-house, from delicate flour tortillas to delicious traditional drinks such as cinnamon-flecked horchata and minty pineapple agua fresca. Breakfast tacos, served all day, include two kinds of housemade sausage.
The charming East Eighth Avenue storefront is convenient to the Waterfront shopping complex and ideal for grabbing a bite before a show at the Carnegie Music Hall of Homestead (comedian Aziz Ansari of NBC's "Parks and Recreation" tweeted his praise for the tacos, which he sampled before a performance last week).
At Chica Loca Taco in Shadyside, the menu is less tightly focused and more traditionally Mexican. Owner Megan McNeish was born and reared in Shadyside before moving to Colorado for 18 years. She also spent considerable time in Mexico, especially Cozumel. "It's been a big influence on my life," she said.
Recently returned to Pittsburgh, she considered opening a taco truck, but concluded that local laws make trucks too difficult. Her Copeland Street storefront was previously occupied by Mercurio's Mulberry Creamery, which has moved to Walnut Street. After several months of renovation, Chica Loca Taco opened earlier this month.
First Published June 23, 2011 12:00 am
