In its new space in Oakland, Legume still is a restaurant to fall in love with
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Sous chef Jamilka Borges prepares a dish at Legume Bistro in Oakland. -
Flat Iron Steak and Red Wine sauce with Barley-Mushroom Risotto and Carrot Puree, from Legume Bistro in Oakland. -
Kitchen staff at work in Legume Bistro in Oakland. -
Lake Fong/Post-GazetteAndrew Sluk, left, and Justin Lewis of Legume Bistro in Oakland make pepperoni on Thursday, December 29, 2011. Magazine. China Millman. PUBLISHED CAPTION: Lake Fong/Post-GazetteAndrew Sluk, left, and Justin Lewis of Legume Bistro in Oakland make pepperoni. -
Grilled radicchio and spelt salad with blue cheese, apples and walnuts. -
Escarole salad with poached egg and pickled veggies. -
Kohlrabi and cauliflower salad with four swiss maiden cheese.
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In June of 2007, Trevett and Sarah Hooper took a risk and opened a restaurant, Legume Bistro in Regent Square. He ran the minuscule kitchen, while she oversaw the petite dining room. The flavorful dishes were inspired by seasonal ingredients but grounded in traditional French culinary techniques, such as duck confit with lentils and beets, chilled tomato and watermelon soup and the best chocolate cake I've tasted to this day.
Over four years, many of us fell in love with that little restaurant, with its turquoise rimmed plates, clean flavors and convivial atmosphere. Even its imperfections inspired loyalty. A few drafty tables, a noisy dining room, a menu that sometimes got perilously short as the night wore on -- all small prices to pay for the genuine warmth of the atmosphere and the delicious, comforting, unexpectedly exciting cooking.
- Hours: Restaurant, Monday-Thursday, 5-9 p.m., Friday-Saturday, 5-10 p.m.; bar, Monday-Saturday, 4 p.m.-midnight.
- Summary: Seasonally inspired American food grounded in traditional culinary techniques, with a special regard for charcuterie and food preservation.
- Don't miss: : Smoked bluefish pate, beef cheek borscht, duck confit, mushroom-barley risotto with flat-iron steak, lobster ravioli, carrots and turnips with miso and butter, tallow fries, chocolate truffle cake, gingerbread with poached quince, cajeta ice cream.
- Prices: Things to share, $8-$9; appetizers, $7-$14; entrees, $17-$29; sides, $4-$5; desserts, $5-$6.
- Drink: The cheekily named Full Service Bar within Legume Bistro supplies well-made cocktails, with a classic bent, including a nice selection of aperitifs ($4-$9). A dozen draft beers include local and imported options ($4-$7). The wine list is organized by style and leans French, but also includes bottles from a number of other old world and new world producers, showing impressive breadth for a menu that fits on one page. Half a dozen whites and nine reds are available for $40 or less. Wines by the glass start at $8.
First Published January 5, 2012 12:00 am
