How to roast a turkey: getting past all the gobbler-dygook
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Thanksgiving turkey is a much maligned dish. Many see it as nothing more than a (barely) edible centerpiece, dry and bland.
Tradition aside, there's no rule that you have to serve turkey at Thanksgiving. You could give another meat pride of place, or go ahead and serve a vegetarian feast.
But if you want to serve turkey, and many of us do, there's no reason it shouldn't be delicious.
There are a million detailed recipes, but roasting a turkey is so simple it doesn't really require a recipe, just a few basic techniques.
Those turkeys that stores use as loss-leaders may be good enough to give away, but you get what you pay for -- lots of water pumped into a bird that's bred for fast growth, not flavor. You don't have to spend a fortune, but it's worth shopping around and finding a turkey worthy of your thanks. For some, that might mean a fresh, organic bird. Others prefer a bird that's locally raised. For those with extra room in their budgets, heritage turkeys really are more flavorful. They can easily be sourced on-line and some are available locally. Next year, Chris Bonfili plans to sell brined and stuffed local birds at B Gourmet, his market and gourmet foods shop set to open next month in Sewickley.
You probably already know what kind of turkey you're getting this year, so even if it's a frozen generic from the grocery store, don't freak out. Good technique can improve any bird. If you did buy a frozen bird, start defrosting it in your refrigerator well in advance. The USDA recommends 24 hours per 5 pounds of turkey, so a 20-pound turkey needs four full days of thawing.
Many chefs love to brine their turkeys. Brining consists of submerging turkey in a solution of water, salt and sugar. The solution is drawn into the turkey's flesh, allowing for better seasoning, and ensuring that the turkey meat remains more moist when cooked. Brining also allows the cook to infuse the turkey with other flavors. Mr. Bonfili uses brown and white sugar as well as a little honey, plus sage and black peppercorn, while Brian Pekarcik of Spoon in East Liberty likes to add peppercorns, chile flakes, thyme, parsley and bay leaf.
First Published November 17, 2011 12:00 am
