Euro glamour: Tusca's laid-back elegance is a perfect fit for South Side
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Andy Starnes, Post-Gazette
Tusca's executive chef Patrick MacFarlane, right, with line cook Derek Gramm, prepares Angel Hair with Shrimp and Lobster at the restaurant at the SouthSide Works.
On a sultry summer evening, as the heat of the day subsides, couples emerge from offices and shops to amble along sidewalks. The pace is slow, the theater is emptying, a motor scooter zips past with an entwined couple aboard, and a spotlit minaret gives the city square an illusion of Andalusian cafe society.
2773 Sidney St.
South Side
412-488-9000
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday (Sunday jazz brunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m.); 11 a.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday (only tapas after 11 p.m.).Basics: Sleek, elegant setting, attentive service and a wide range of little-plate choices.Prices: Tapas $5-$10; entrees, $20; desserts, $6-8.Summary: No smoking; wheelchair accessible; major credit cards accepted. Parking in SouthSide Works garages.
The minaret may be only a whimsical ornament to the Cheesecake Factory, and the South Side may never be mistaken -- at least by daylight -- for southern Spain. But Iberian cuisine is making its mark. Joining the East Carson Street landmark Mallorca and its sidekick, Ibiza, the SouthSide Works threw another dash of Spanish flavor into the mix in February. The elegant Tusca, on the corner of 28th and Sidney streets, lends more Euro glamour to the late-night dining scene.
With a menu dominated by hot and cold tapas and bolstered with traditional entrees, flatbreads, pastas and rice, Tusca's choices work from lunch through late night. But it's the tapas you should try -- as Tusca reminds you with the stack of tiny white plates piled high and ready on each table.
The small-plates trend that's finally landed here has floated around Mediterranean shores for centuries, from the mezze of North Africa to the tapas bars of Spain. A casual sampling of a number of smaller, often meatless dishes feels right to American diners, especially for summer dining outdoors. Tusca offers that, too, with al fresco tables under a canopy. The restaurant's windows open down to the sidewalk on Sidney Street, creating a wide-open, welcoming bar entrance.
Even viewed from the sidewalk, Tusca's interior is a stunner. Designed by South Sider Bill Thomas, who's designed a number of Miami restaurant interiors, Tusca's terra cotta and ochre walls harmonize beautifully with curved banquettes and polished hardwood floors.
Proprietor John Mowod says the textured ceramic back wall, a series of sensuous curves, was designed to convey an impression of water. It also suggests wind-carved sand dunes. The latter illusion is reinforced by some of the tapas choices, which touch down on the African side of the Mediterranean. Stuffed grape leaves ($6) and tabbouleh ($5) from Lebanon are here along with grilled asparagus (served cold, with a freshly cooked organic fried egg and Reggiano cheese ($8). Another cold-side stand-out is the stuffed roasted pepper ($7). A stuffing of prosciutto, basil, mozzarella and bread crumbs gives the cool ruby pepper body and bite.
Our party was unanimous in praise of the Prince Edward Island mussels ($9), steamed to perfection and served in an herb-spiced broth spiked with chardonnay. The serving of a dozen made it easy to share. (All of Tusca's portions are generous enough that two or three dishes make an ample meal for two). A traditional frittata ($6) disappointed, however. The bland pairing of potato and egg lacked distinction. Potatoes performed better in a spicy marinara sauce with clams, mussels and shrimps, again perfectly tender. A cheerful server offered a choice of heat, from one (timid) to six (think vindaloo), and our middle-of-the-road choice was scrupulously honored by the kitchen.
Tusca currently offers only two formal entrees: The pork osso buco ($20), served with risotto, was made to order; when it arrived, 20 minutes later, it lacked the deep flavor and fall-off-the-bone quality we'd expected.
Better to concentrate on those small plates and on the wine list. Tusca lists some forty choices, often in 3-ounce, 6-ounce or half-bottle incarnations. While it includes Spanish wines (we were surprised by a vibrant granacha El Burro, $8 a glass) it groups wines by taste, using labels like "rich, full and complex" or "light, crisp and refreshing" rather than countries of origin.
Chef Patrick MacFarlane, an alumnus of the Steelhead Grill and New York's Tribeca Grill, says he plans to add grilled fish and other Mediterranean elements in the future.
Desserts created by pastry chef Georgina Rondinelli, who worked with MacFarlane at Steelhead, included a luscious chocolate-drizzled puff pastry with custard and berries ($7). Surprisingly, flan, the beloved Spanish caramel baked custard cream, wasn't on the menu.
With proprietor John Mowod's father, Tony, the well-known jazz DJ, as a partner, Tusca offers live jazz at Sunday brunch and Wednesday evenings. Piano music takes the stage -- actually, a corner of the bar -- on Monday evenings.
At other times, the entertainment is provided by the street scene. Observing the passing South Side parade makes for a laid-back but elegant experience. Just watch out for that motor scooter.
First Published June 20, 2007 3:55 pm
