Cibo in Regent Square brings Italian classics and modern touches to the table
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Cibo chef Eric Schwarzmeier, who trained at La Cucina Flegrea: his best dishes mix "Southern Italian flavors with an American sense of abundance." -
Eggplant caprese.
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Regent Square is a lively spot for enjoying these last days of summer. The sidewalks seem to be constantly bustling, as people enjoy dinner al fresco or stroll, browsing menus at various new and old restaurants. One of these new spots is Cibo (pronounced chee-bo), a restaurant that mixes upscale touches such as white tablecloths with casual warmth and an Italian-American menu that leans more heavily on the Italian side than many.
Eric Schwarzmeier, who trained at La Cucina Flegrea in Squirrel Hill (now closed), is in charge of the kitchen. Cindy DeFlavio, co-owner of the restaurant with her husband, Dino, is there most nights to warmly welcome diners. This is a traditional sort of restaurant, where most diners order individual appetizers and entrees, and meals come with slices of warm, crusty bread accompanied by a small jug of olive oil.
- Hours: Monday-Saturday 5-10 p.m.
- Basics: This Italian-American spot will please traditionalists who like a white tablecloth and a nice plate of pasta, but it also has something to offer those looking for a more contemporary expression of Italian cuisine.
- Prices: Appetizers $8-$14, soups and salads, $6-$10; entrees, $16-$23; desserts, $4-$7; a la carte sides, $6-$8.
- Summary: Wheelchair-accessible; credit cards accepted; reservations recommended; BYOB, corkage, $7.
- Noise level: Loud.
But Cibo also has contemporary touches. The menu changes frequently and incorporates seasonal dishes. One of the best, and most seasonal, starters was a new take on that summertime classic, the caprese salad. A small white eggplant was cut into wedges, held together by the stem, then fried until the edges are crispy, the eggplant flesh softly melting. A slice of fresh mozzarella, roma tomato and a sprig of basil were slipped between each wedge of eggplant, a lovely contrast of hot and cold, mellow and fresh ($10). Roma tomatoes were a slightly odd choice here; a really juicy heirloom would have put this dish over the top.
First Published September 1, 2011 12:00 am
