As the holidays approach, local independent bakeries take the cake

2012-03-29 07:57:57
  • The Oakmonter cake at Oakmont Bakery is a layer of chocolate cake, cheesecake with a fudge center and milk chocolate buttercream icing.
    The Oakmonter cake at Oakmont Bakery is a layer of chocolate cake, cheesecake with a fudge center and milk chocolate buttercream icing.
  • The cases inside the Oakmont Bakery in Oakmont.
    The cases inside the Oakmont Bakery in Oakmont.

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In the wee hours of the morning, before the sun begins to color the sky, a bit of magic is being whipped up in the kitchens of some of our favorite neighborhood bakeries.

Pantry staples such as flour and sugar are being beaten, blended and mixed with butter, cream and myriad other ingredients. Then, presto! Delectable confections and tender pastries of all shape, hue, texture and flavor appear behind glass cases like so many rabbits pulled from hats.

Perhaps the most mystical part of the enterprise is that it persists in every corner of the region despite rejection by calorie-counters; despite competition from supermarkets and national names such as Krispy Kreme and Dunkin' Donuts; and despite a burgeoning resurgence in home baking, piqued by TV shows that tantalize viewers with the prospect of impressive desserts made at home.

But persist such hometown bakeries do, much to the delight of customers, especially at this time of year when the demand for "something special" peaks.

Early mornings, long days

Cindy Mayle of North Sewickley clutches a dainty waxed-paper bag one recent morning; inside is a little something from Carol's Pastry Shop on Main Street in Zelienople. Ms. Mayle is one in a parade that marches in the predawn shadows, in and out of the glowing-yellow shop in the south end of town.

A woman with medical scrubs picks a sweet roll; a middle-aged man in a suit chooses a cake doughnut with chocolate icing; a construction worker goes for a bear claw; and a mom with two preschoolers in tow buys strawberry danish and cookies. It's the regular morning march that proprietor Carol Wahl has been tending since 1974.

The shop is among the smallest of the region's long-standing bakeries -- Mrs. Wahl and her husband, Richard, have only one full-time employee.

The bakery business is about early mornings, long days and lots of work, Mrs. Wahl said. But, she said, it's a labor of love.

Karen Kane: kkane@post-gazette.com or 724-772-9180.
First Published November 18, 2010 12:00 am

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