Analysis: Closing of Le Cordon Bleu 'devastating' for city restaurant scene

2012-03-29 21:17:39
  • Le Cordon Bleu Institute of Culinary Arts, Downtown, will close next year.
    Le Cordon Bleu Institute of Culinary Arts, Downtown, will close next year.
  • In a familiar sight Downtown, chefs and students from Le Cordon Bleu Institute of Culinary Arts cross Liberty Avenue between their facilities in the Clark Building and those at 808 Liberty.
    In a familiar sight Downtown, chefs and students from Le Cordon Bleu Institute of Culinary Arts cross Liberty Avenue between their facilities in the Clark Building and those at 808 Liberty.

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The announcement that Downtown's Le Cordon Bleu Institute of Culinary Arts is ceasing enrollment and will close in 2012 was a blow to the city's thriving dining scene.

"It's going to be devastating" said Toni Pais, chef and owner of Cafe Zinho in Shadyside. "The restaurant scene in Pittsburgh has been growing like crazy in recent years; we're really going to feel the pinch."

Over the years, Mr. Pais has employed numerous graduates, including two of his current employees at Cafe Zinho. The school's reputation drew many students from outside the Western Pennsylvania region, and that pool of fresh talent "really helped fill the void in the restaurants," according to Mr. Pais.

While enrollment at the school varied, in the fall of 2009 more than 800 students were enrolled either full or part time. Many of them also worked at area restaurants and food establishments.

Graduates of the 25-year-old program, previously known as the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute, fill many of the top spots at notable restaurants around town, including Danielle Cain, executive chef at Soba in Shadyside; Kevin Sousa, chef-owner of Salt of the Earth in Garfield; Justin Severino, executive chef and partner at Elements, Downtown; and Richard DeShantz, chef-owner of Nine on Nine, Downtown.

The school's absence will be felt in other ways as well.

Downtown visitors no longer will see students in checkered pants and chef's white jackets cooking through the window of a Liberty Avenue kitchen classroom.

There will be no more weekend-enthusiast classes for home cooks.

The culinary students no longer will sell freshly made soup, cookies and other treats at Cultural District events such as Gallery Crawls and First Night celebrations.

Mike Edwards, CEO of the Pittsburgh Downtown Partnership, mourns the loss of the culinary students.

"We are very disappointed to learn of the loss of a business Downtown that really adds a certain vitality," he said. "The culinary students are very engaging young people; it's good to have them Downtown."

The school will remain open until all of its current students have completed the program. As the students graduate, instructors and other staff will be downsized.

Daniel Malloy contributed to this story. China Millman: 412-263-1198 or cmillman@post-gazette.com . Follow her at http://twitter.com/chinamillman .
First Published January 20, 2011 12:00 am

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