Sauce: Try a chipped ham on ciabatta?
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I was raised on chipped ham, sometimes from the corner market. As an elementary school student, I would trot down there carrying a buck from my mom to score some for lunch. Sixty-nine cents a pound, on sale, sticks in my mind, along with the salty taste of the ham, on white bread. Mustard or mayo optional.
I can still hear every creak of the store's wooden porch, which seemed a block long, and I can hear the front screen door slam loudly as the neighborhood rugrats went in and out, all day long, the door spring flaccid from overuse.
I can see the coveted candy behind the worn-out Formica counter, the Push-Ups and Popsicles in the case in front of the counter. It seemed like a rare occasion when most of us had 5 cents to buy something, and so many deadly sins -- covetousness, jealousy -- simmered at that spot.
I see the aisles that in reality were probably few and not stocked with great variety but held great fascination to me. I mean, it was cool to check out what was there -- bread, household cleaners, colorful boxes of laundry detergent, like Trend. Which I recall my mother used for bath soap.
And I remember how solicitous and kind the owner was. He used to sing "Margie, I'm always thinking of you," whenever I came in. I had no idea what he was talking about, but I loved it.
Who needed a supermarket?
America, obviously, because the mom-and-pop markets as they existed in the mid-20th century, with some exception, are gone.
We could mourn this, true. But we can also embrace the newest generation of sole proprietorships as well as the newest additions to grocery marketdom. Being a Pittsburgher, I still like my chipped ham (fried, on white bread, thank you) on occasion, but I've also learned to expand my food shopping horizons utilizing the truly astonishing array of choices available in this area.
If you are the chipped-ham-type hoping to break out, spend time browsing in the ethnic aisle of the supermarket, or find a close-by specialty store. Look at the kinds of rice you've never tasted, and try one. Sniff a few spices that are new to your nose. Try a cheese or olive or lunch meat you've never had before. Investigate organic.
I used to think breaking out of my Pittsburgh-honed, meat-and-potato-culinary rut would be too time-consuming or expensive. But I found you can add little things here and there, like brown rice or French olives, without busting the budget and to great improvement of your cooking.
A quarter pound of Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated, can go a longer way in taste and use than a cheap-o canned parmesan. Kosher salt might be a bit more expensive than table, but what it adds to dishes is supreme.
Importantly, ask questions. The grocery biz is highly competitive. Owners want your business, and many places are staffed by real food lovers who are eager to help. If they aren't, go somewhere else. It's as simple as that.
• The Butler County Tourism & Convention Bureau is offering Butler Brand gift baskets, composed of products made, grown or produced in Butler County. Products include jams, coffee, dips, sauces, seasonal farm goods, candy and a Butler County Tourism tote bag. Small, $39.99, large, $59.99, plus shipping. Go to visitbutlercounty.com/shopping/our-store or call 724-234-4619.
• From 11 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. today and tomorrow, Smithfield United Church of Christ, Smithfield Street and Strawberry Way, Downtown, holds its German Christmas Markt. Nosh at the German lunch buffet (roast pork, kraut, applesauce, all things German), buy fair trade coffee or chocolate at the Kaffeetafel, enjoy stollen, take home homemade jams, crafts, Christmas cards, and fresh Christmas greens. More information at smithfieldchurch.org.
• St. John the Baptist Greek Orthodox Church, Ambridge, is taking orders for homemade cookies and cookie trays, rolls, pierogi and halushki for pickup at the annual church sale from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Dec. 23 at the Parish Center, Fifth Street and Elm Road. Orders will be taken through Dec. 11 at 724-869-5516 or 412-749-0675.
• St. Vitus School, Jefferson Street, New Castle, will hold its Santa's Lane Celebration from 8 a.m. to 8:30 p.m tomorrow in Fabbri Hall. Vendors will sell crafts. Hot food and baked goods, too. For takeout, call 724-654-9410.
• Sacred Heart Parish, 310 Shady Ave., Shadyside, will hold Loretta's Christmas Cookie and Cake Walk from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Dec. 13 in the school cafeteria, Emerson Street. Cookies and candies, $7 per pound.
• The Friends of the Tamburitzans have launched their yearly specialty coffee sale, with five blends developed by Javamania available at $10 for regular, $11 for decaf, for a 12-ounce bag. Flavors include dark roast Private Blend, Palachinka ("with the comforting taste of custard and sweet crepes") and Volim Te! (chocolate and cherry). New this year: a Coffee Club if you want to buy the blends year 'round. E-mail friendsblends@yahoo.com or call 412-399-3499. The blends also are available at Gypsy Cafe, which is offering half pans of goulashes-to-go through New Year's for your holiday parties. $25, serves 4 to 6 as a main dish, 8 to 10 as a side. 412-381-GYPSY.
• The Bulgarian Macedonian National Educational and Culture Center, Eighth Avenue, Homestead, will sell its famous soups and other refreshments from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturday, overlapping the Steel Valley Christmas Parade. It starts at noon in front of the West Homestead police station.
• The BMNECC (I love that; I want to embroider it on something) also will participate from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday at the Artists' Market at the Pump House, 880 East Waterfront Drive, Munhall.
Adam Richman of the Travel Channel will talk about his food experiences from around the world from noon to 3 p.m. Sunday, Market District, Settlers Ridge, Robinson.
Pittsburgh-based Edward Marc Chocolatier, owner of The Milkshake Factory, Carson Street, South Side, will donate 20 percent of its sales at edwardmarc.com to Make-a-Wish, The Children's Institute or the Wounded Warrior Project.
All-Clad Metalcrafter's biannual seconds sale is tomorrow through Sunday at the Washington County Fairgrounds and Crate, Greentree Road, Scott. Crate's sale includes Wusthof knives, USA pans and more. Hours at Crate: tomorrow, 9:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Saturday, 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. At the fairgrounds: Tomorrow, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
PUMPKIN ROULADE WITH GINGER BUTTERCREAM
PG tested
On Thanksgiving morning, before cooking, I sang in the shower:
"I'm dreaming of a Pumpkin Roulade
made from an Ina recipe
with crystallized ginger and marscapone cheese
It's sure to please my fam-ileeeee."
My daughter drolly greeted me later with: "If you ever sing in the shower again, I will kill myself."
This recipe is killer. Although rated by Food Network as difficult, it really isn't. Just be sure to take your time and follow the directions precisely, especially to let the rolled up cake cool thoroughly.
And if you've never used mascarpone cheese, here's your chance to try it.</</span>p>
-- Margi Shrum
For the Cake
- 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
- 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1 teaspoon ground ginger
- 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
- 3 extra-large eggs, at room temperature
- 1 cup granulated sugar
- 3/4 cup canned pumpkin (not pie filling)
- 1/4 cup confectioners' sugar, plus extra for dusting
- For the filling
- 12 ounces Italian mascarpone cheese
- 1 1/4 cups sifted confectioners' sugar
- 2 tablespoons heavy cream
- 1/4 cup minced dried crystallized ginger (not in syrup)
- Pinch kosher salt
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Grease a 13-by-18-by-1-inch sheet pan. Line the pan with parchment paper and grease and flour the paper.
In a small bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and salt and stir to combine. Place the eggs and granulated sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on medium-high speed for 3 minutes, until light yellow and thickened. With the mixer on low, add the pumpkin, then slowly add the flour mixture, mixing just until incorporated. Finish mixing the batter by hand with a rubber spatula. Pour into the prepared pan and spread evenly. Bake the cake for 10 to 12 minutes, until the top springs back when gently touched.
While the cake is baking, lay out a clean, thin cotton dish towel on a flat surface and sift the entire 1/4 cup of confectioners' sugar evenly over it. (This will prevent the cake from sticking to the towel.) As soon as you remove the cake from the oven, loosen it around the edges and invert it squarely onto the prepared towel. Peel away the parchment paper. With a light touch, roll the warm cake and the towel together (don't press!) starting at the short end of the cake. Allow to cool completely on a wire rack.
Meanwhile, make the filling. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the mascarpone, confectioners' sugar, and cream together for about a minute, until light and fluffy. Stir in the crystallized ginger, and salt.
To assemble, carefully unroll the cake onto a board with the towel underneath. Spread the cake evenly with the filling. Reroll the cake in a spiral using the towel as a guide. Remove the towel and trim the ends to make a neat edge. Dust with confectioners' sugar and serve sliced.
-- Ina Garten, Food Network
First Published December 3, 2009 12:00 am
