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Finding latke inspiration: New cookbook 'Jerusalem' offers cross-cultural recipes for Hanukkah
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This Saturday at sundown, the Jewish festival of Hanukkah begins. The joyous eight-day period commemorates the rededication of the Temple in Jerusalem. Hanukkah celebrates the miracle of the oil. Upon reclamation of the Temple, only a tiny jug of untainted oil remained to light the Temple's menorah. But miraculously, the oil lasted for eight days and eight nights.
Also known as the Festival of Lights, Hanukkah occurs during some of the shorter, darker days of the year. Continuing with the theme of light, on each night of the holiday Jews light candles in the menorah, a nine-branched candelabra with one holder set off or placed higher. This holder is for the Shamash or caretaker. The Shamash is lit first and then used to light the other candles. One candle is added for each night, until all are aglow.
As with many holidays, to me, the favorite, memorable parts are the food. And Hanukkah's got latkes, fried in oil, symbolic of the miracle.
As a child, I remember my grandmother serving piles of crisp golden latkes which we topped with sour cream or applesauce, ignoring for a while, the brisket and chicken fricassee. Israeli Jews eat fried jelly doughnuts, called sufganiyot. There were presents, too, but I dream always about the latkes.
Looking for new latke inspiration, I found a terrific recipe in the beautiful and inspiring cookbook, "Jerusalem" by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi.
This book offers great cross-cultural Middle-Eastern recipes and sweeping shots of Jerusalem, the city in which both authors were raised, albeit on different sides of town, and with different religions and cultures. "Jerusalem" explores their similarities, through the foods these men grew up enjoying, and speaks to how the city and its melting-pot cuisine shaped them both. Even though when they lived in Jerusalem they didn't know each other. Even though they both left the city more than 20 years ago.
From the introduction: "The flavors and smells of this city are our mother tongue. We imagine them and dream in them, even though we've adopted some new, perhaps more sophisticated languages. They define comfort for us, excitement, joy, serene bliss. Everything we taste and everything we cook is filtered through the prism of our childhood experiences.
"This is Jerusalem in a nutshell."
I prepared many recipes from "Jerusalem," excited each time to savor the vibrant tastes and gorgeous combinations. I wanted to travel to Israel, where I've never been. So I traveled through these recipes: Roasted Eggplant with Fried Onion and Chopped Lemon, Ruth's Stuffed Romano Peppers, and Pickled Turnip and Beet, which I made from my end-of-garden vegetables.
When summer comes, I'll be preparing anything eggplant again, along with Fried Tomatoes and Garlic and Herb Pie, with chard and arugula.
I think you'll find this book a special and welcome Hanukkah gift for your favorite cook or arm-chair cookbook reader. Or for a friend or relative who tours the world through recipes. Perhaps also add an assortment of fragrant whole spices -- cardamom, cumin, coriander and cinnamon sticks.
Happy Hanukkah!
Latkes
PG tested
These were great, and the parsnip added an earthy dimension. They also passed my big latke test, which is can they be eaten cold from the fridge the next day with a sprinkle of coarse salt? Yes, oh yes. I shredded the vegetables on the shredding disk of my food processor. Parsnips first because they aren't wet like potatoes. If you keep kosher, serve these at a dairy meal or omit the butter and use all oil. These require attention so don't use too large a skillet. Once fried and drained, they'll keep crisp in a 200-degree oven. The authors credit their friend Helen Goh for perfecting this recipe and write: "Don't save latkes just for holidays though; they are truly marvelous and a good way to start any meal, or to accompany roasted beef."
- 5 1/2 cups peeled and shredded Yukon Gold potatoes (4 or 5 medium potatoes)
- 2 3/4 cups peeled and shredded parsnips, about 2 large parsnips
- 2/3 cup thinly sliced chives or finely chopped scallions
- 4 large egg whites
- 2 to 3 tablespoons cornstarch (I added a third tablespoon so this held together better)
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
- 6 tablespoons or more canola oil or sunflower oil, divided
- Sour cream, to serve
Rinse potatoes in large bowl of cold water. Drain in colander, squeeze out excess water. Spread potatoes out on clean kitchen towel to dry completely.
In large bowl, mix potatoes, parsnips, chives, egg whites, cornstarch, 1 teaspoon salt and plenty of black pepper.
In large nonstick skillet, melt half the butter in half the oil over medium heat. With hands, one at a time, pick out a heaping 2 tablespoons latke mix; squeeze firmly to remove some liquid and shape into patties. Carefully place as many as can comfortably fit in the hot pan, push down gently and level with back of spoon. Fry 3 minutes on each side. Latkes need to be completely brown on outside. Remove fried latkes from oil, place on paper towels and keep warm while cooking the rest. Add remaining butter and oil as needed. Serve at once with sour cream on side.
Makes 12 to 14 latkes.
-- Adapted from "Jerusalem: A Cookbook" by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi (2012, Ten Speed, $35)
Poached Pears in White Wine and Cardamom
PG tested
The authors write: "Cardamom is one of our favorite spices. Like allspice and cinnamon it has its own sweetness -- not in a sugary sense, but more in an aromatic way -- but it gets an extra dimension when it appears in sweet contexts." Choose firm but ripe pears, not mushy, soft ones. You'll love this light, fresh dessert after filling up on latkes.
- 2 cups dry white wine
- 1 1/2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
- 3/4 cup superfine sugar
- 15 cardamom pods, lightly crushed
- 1/2 teaspoon saffron threads
- Pinch salt
- 4 firm pears, peeled but left whole
- Creme fraiche, to serve
Pour wine and lemon juice into a wide, medium, nonreactive saucepan and stir in sugar, cardamom, saffron and salt. Bring to a light simmer and place pears in pan. Make sure they are immersed in liquid; add water if needed (I added about 1 cup water). Cover the surface with a disk of waxed paper and simmer the pears, turning occasionally, for 15 to 25 minutes, until cooked through but not mushy. To check, insert a knife in the flesh; it should slide out smoothly.
Remove pears from liquid and transfer to 4 serving bowls. Increase the heat and reduce the liquid by about 2/3, until thick and syrupy. Pour over the pears and leave to cool down. Serve cold or at room temperature, with creme fraiche on the side or spooned on top.
Makes 4 servings.
-- Adapted from "Jerusalem: A Cookbook" by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi (2012, Ten Speed, $35)
First Published December 6, 2012 12:00 am
