It's a food show for upstarts, counter to the glossy Fancy Food Show held at the same time each year in Manhattan.

The Unfancy Food Show was hatched four years ago by Tom Mylan, owner of the Meat Hook in Brooklyn, a new wave butcher shop drawing chefs and food nerds from far and wide. Forced into larger digs this year -- a 1920 warehouse turned band venue -- the show throbbed with food insurgents, mostly in their 20s and 30s, and the beat of a live band. On a 90-plus-degree day, shaved ice in a cone and cold beer mellowed the flow through aisles so jammed it took skill to move with a paper bag, let alone push a stroller.

Most of these enterprises are tiny and serve the Brooklyn foodshed but all listed here do mail order or can be found locally.

The Meat Hook now ships its wildly popular sausages -- Garlic, Red Wine/Rosemary, Chorizo or more creative Bacon Cheeseburger, Long Dong Bud or Bahn Mi. Frozen 1-pound packs of five flavors go via two-day shipping, included, for $115. Call 1-718-349-5003 (the-meathook.com).

Roni-Sue's faux-rustic sweets are a hit with Florence Fabricant at The New York Times. Unfancy patrons emptied a trough of BeerCorn, a beer-and-pretzel caramel corn with candied mustard seeds, sweetened with agave and beer reduced to syrup. I brought home two bags. Lots of pictures and order info at: roni-sue.com. Mon Aimee Chocolat sometimes has the line, too.

Mama O's Premium Kimchee Cabbage. Fermenter by day, DJ by night, kimchi snob Kheedim Oh makes fresh-tasting Mama O's Kimchee from his mom's recipe. Ingredients? "Napa cabbage, Korean daikon radish, hot red pepper flakes, garlic, salt, and some shrimp and or fish sauce to get it fermenting." Slathered on a Meat Hook hotdog, it's a memorable thing. Order: kimcheerules.com.

McClure's Pickles. You have to buy a case -- some hostess gift, eh? -- with mix/match option for spicy or garlic dill pickles, relish and spicy Bloody Mary mix. Two brothers -- one in Detroit, one in Brooklyn -- make these juicy spears, hewing to Grandmother Lala's recipe. mcclurespickles.com/buy.

La Quercia. Here's a treat mobbed by Unfancy food-fanciers that you can readily find at Whole Foods and Giant Eagle Market District stores. La Quercia ("oak" in Italian) offers a range of American artisan pork products. They are made in Iowa by Herb Eckhouse, a Harvard social studies major in the '60s. The Iowa prosciutto, not as funky as Italian, is creamy, nutty, innocent and irresistible. laquercia.us.

Fine and Raw Ecuadoran chocolate is made by a former financial analyst in a Brooklyn loft. These bars feature things such as blue agave, Peruvian lucuma fruit, and Himalayan sea salt. I flipped for a "bonbon" bar made of dark chocolate with a layer of coconut truffle. Mon Aimee Chocolat can order these for you -- a good idea in hot weather, as raw chocolate is perishingly soft. fineandraw.com.

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