There are diehards who brave flipping burgers and searing steaks outside in any and all kinds of weather. But for many Pittsburghers, the grilling season doesn't officially start until the sun bakes the skin, flowers perfume the air and you've been jolted awake on Saturday morning by your neighbor's lawn mower.

But man, oh man, isn't it worth the long winter's wait?

After being stuck inside behind a hot stove for months on end, I know I'm itching to get out of the kitchen and onto the patio. The first intoxicating taste of a smoky burger or barbecued chicken on winter-parched lips is a nectar like no other. Suddenly, the lazier days of summer aren't so far out of reach. Suddenly, cooking becomes more fun.

There's also the aroma of food sizzling on an open flame, be it a thick T-bone steak or barbecued pork ribs or the humble hot dog. My mouth is watering just thinking about that sweet, smoky smell.

Cooking food over the direct heat of a fire might be man's original cooking method, but somehow, we've never tired of it (81 percent of U.S. households own grills). According to the 21st annual Weber GrillWatch Survey, grill owners fire up their gas and charcoal barbecues an average of 4.7 hours per week during the grilling season. One-third of us are grilling six hours a week.

Undoubtedly, you could use new recipes to spice things up in honor of National Hamburger Day, which this year is tomorrow, or at least keep one of America's favorite pastimes from feeling like the same old same-old.

Thankfully, every season brings with it a slew of new cookbooks, and this year's tempts with a variety of tastes and techniques. "BBQ Makes Everything Better" (Scribner, 2010, $30) by the Burnt Finger BBQ team of Aaron Chronister and Jason Day, for instance, includes an entire chapter devoted to one of the hottest food trends of the year -- bacon -- along with recipes that raid the liquor closet and explore lands far, far away. Lukas Volger's upcoming "Veggie Burgers Every Which Way" to be published in July, embraces the growing popularity of vegetarian dishes, with more than 30 non-meat burger recipes, plus side dishes, condiments and toppings. Who knew shredded carrots or quinoa could be so deliciously molded into a pattie? And satisfy a dyed-in-the-wool carnivore.

A baker/caterer who also freelances in book publishing, Mr. Volger grew up in Idaho. So it's not surprising that steamed potatoes, along with peanut butter and eggs, serve as a binder in some of the recipes. Protein sources include beans, grains and tofu.

"It's looking at the veggie burger not as an alternative, but a dish in its own right," says Mr. Volger, 28, who lives in Brooklyn. "It doesn't have to be a consolation prize at the barbecue, but something everyone can enjoy."

If you like to entertain, the beautifully photographed "Burger Parties" by James McNair and Jeffrey Starr (Ten Speed, 2010, $19.99) offers new ideas for a backyard bash, with 16 all-inclusive, themed menus built around burgers. Each recipe was either a winner or outstanding finalist in Sutter Home Winery's annual Build a Better Burger contest, now in its 20th year. They range from Greek to Italian to Southeast Asian, and come with wine and beverage pairings -- say, a nice gewurztraminer with that pineapple-upside-down jerk burger. The California winery offers 5,000 additional burger recipes, plus a burger personality quiz, on its online "Burgerbase" (burgerbase.sutterhome.com).

With a $100,000 grand prize for the best beef burger, Mr. McNair expects a ton of entries. (Hint: This year's hot trend is Latin flavors.) But you also can get a good, juicy, flavorful patty using other ingredients. Among his favorite recipes are a soy-glazed salmon burger from Hawaii and "My Big Fat Greek Burger," made with ground lamb and feta.

"A lot of people don't eat red meat but still want a delicious burger," says Mr. McNair, on the phone from California. "So chefs are being a little more creative."

We can't wait to explore the delicious grilling recipes 2010's books offer in spades over the next few months. To get you started, we're kicking things off with the No. 1 food grilled at home: burgers.

But not just any burgers.

We're going a little more unconventional, with patty recipes built around ingredients such as minced fish and grated carrot. We're hoping the untraditional will start some new grilling traditions, or at the very least, reinvigorate a tired palate.

Now, time to get fired up and cooking.

Thai Carrot Burgers

PG tested

Natural peanut butter, which is a little denser than regular varieties, works best for this spicy veggie burger. I made bread crumbs from stale English muffins but any day-old bread would do.

The original recipe calls for frying and then baking the burgers. But you get almost as decent results on the grill as long as you cook them over indirect heat on a piece of foil that's been lightly brushed with oil. (I forgot the oil, so mine didn't survive the first flipping totally intact, but you never noticed once they hit the bun.) To round out the veggie theme, I topped them with a tangy red cabbage slaw.

• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 bunch scallions, including 1-inch into dark green parts, thinly sliced
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 2-inch piece fresh ginger, grated
• 1 serrano chile pepper, finely chopped (seeded or not, depending on your personal heat threshold)
• 4 cups grated carrots (about 8 medium)
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 3/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 2 egg whites
• 2 tablespoons natural peanut butter
• Juice of 1/2 lime
• 1/4 cup roughly chopped cilantro
• 1/2 cup toasted bread crumbs

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Heat a large lidded saute pan over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil. When hot, add the scallions and cook just until they begin to soften, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic, ginger and chile pepper and stir for 30 seconds, until fragrant. Stir in the carrots, salt, coriander, turmeric and cinnamon. Cover and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until the carrots are soft but not mushy.

In a mixing bowl, whisk together the egg whites, peanut butter and lime juice. Stir in the carrot mixture and the cilantro. Fold in the bread crumbs. Let sit for about 10 minutes, allowing the crumbs to absorb some of the liquid. Adjust seasonings. Shape into 4 patties.

In an oven-safe skillet or nonstick saute pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. When hot, add the patties and cook until browned on each side, 4 to 6 minutes total. Transfer the pan to oven and bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the burgers are firm and cooked through.

Makes 4 burgers.

-- "Veggie Burgers Every Which Way" by Lukas Volger (The Experiment, July 2010, $16.95)

Red Cabbage Slaw

PG tested

This easy slaw takes less than 15 minutes to prepare, and tastes just as good beside a burger as on top of it.

• 1/2 head red cabbage, julienned into 1/8-inch pieces
• 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 3 tablespoons Greek-style yogurt
• 1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh dill

Toss cabbage with vinegar and 1/2 teaspoon salt in large bowl and let stand until it begins to wilt, 10 to 15 minutes. Pour off excess liquid at the bottom of bowl. Add yogurt, dill and pepper. Adjust seasonings. Serve.

-- "Veggie Burgers Every Which Way" by Lukas Volger (The Experiment, July 2010, $16.95)

Blue Cheese Buffalo Chicken Burger

PG tested

My son Jack drowns just about everything in cayenne pepper sauce, including ravioli. Buffalo wings, though, remain his favorite. This recipe takes the hot wings concept to a convenient (and healthier) burger form. Be sure to have some extra hot sauce on the table for dunking.

• 2 pounds ground chicken
• 1 cup dried bread crumbs
• 1/2 cup crumbled blue cheese
• 3/4 cup hot sauce, divided (I used Frank's Red Hot)
• 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
• 2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 4 hamburger buns
• Lettuce leaves
• Tomato slices

Combine the ground chicken, bread crumbs, blue cheese and 1/2 cup of hot sauce in a mixing bowl and refrigerate for 1 hour. This will give the bread crumbs time to absorb the moisture from the meat and hot sauce and act as a binder to hold your burgers together.

Remove the meat mixture from the refrigerator and form 4 equal-sized patties (I actually squeezed out 8 burgers). Mix the garlic powder and butter together and spread on the buns.

Grill the burgers over direct medium-high heat for approximately 7 to 8 minutes per side until the burgers are well done. During the last 2 minutes of grill time, baste the burgers with the remaining 1/4 cup hot sauce.

After turning the burgers, toast the buttered buns facedown on the grill for 2 to 3 minutes. Place cooked burgers on toasted buns and top with lettuce and tomato before serving.

Makes 4 to 8 burgers.

-- "BBQ Makes Everything Better" by Aaron Chronister and Jason Day (Scribner, 2010, $30)

Bouillabaisse Sliders with Tomato-Fennel Relish

PG tested

Bouillabaisse, the highly seasoned French fish stew, can include as many as six or seven varieties of fish. This succulent seafood burger incorporates just two fruits of the ocean: red snapper, a delicate-tasting white fish, and shrimp.

A crunchy fennel relish and mayonnaise infused with threads of saffron -- a spice the Arabians originally imported from India -- are perfect accompaniments.

I cheated a little by freezing the patties for a few minutes before grilling, to make sure they didn't stick. A nonstick grill basket would also ease preparation.

• 1/2 pound skinless, boneless red snapper fillets or any other firm-textured lean white fish (I used cod)
• 3 ounces peeled and deveined large raw shrimp, cut in into about 1/4-inch pieces
• 2 egg whites
• 1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 to 1/2 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)

• 1/8 teaspoon saffron threads
• 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 6 tablespoons mayonnaise
• Kosher or coarse sea salt
• Freshly ground black pepper

• 1/3 cup seeded and finely chopped firm, ripe plum or vine-ripened tomato
• 5 tablespoons finely chopped fennel bulb
• 1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped sweet onion
• 1/4 teaspoon grated fresh lemon zest
• 1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
• 1 1/2 teaspoons garlic-flavored olive oil
• 1/8 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt
• 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 12 ( 1/2 inch-thick) slices French bread, cut diagonally from baguettes about 3 inches wide

Prepare a medium-hot fire in charcoal grill with a cover, or preheat gas grill to medium heat.

Grind the snapper coarsely in small batches, in a food processor, or chop by hand into about 1/4-inch pieces. Combine it with the shrimp, egg whites, thyme, salt and pepper in a bowl and mix well. Stir in enough panko to bind the ingredients together. Form the mixture into 6 equal patties to fir the slices of bread. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before cooking. (I cheated here, and also stuck the patties in the freezer for 15 minutes before cooking.)

To make the mayonnaise, combine the saffron and lemon juice in a small bowl and let soak for 20 minutes. Add mayonnaise and blend until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate.

To make the relish, combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate.

Brush grill rack with vegetable oil. Place patties on the rack, cover and cook, turning once, just until opaque throughout, about 3 minutes on each side. Lightly brush both sides of each slice of bread with garlic-flavored oil and place on the outer edges of the grill rack to toast lightly, turning once.

To assemble the burgers, spread the mayonnaise over one side of each toasted bread slice. Place a patty on 6 of the slices. Using a slotted spoon, top each patty with some tomato-fennel relish. Add the remaining bread slices and serve.

Makes 6 burgers.

-- "Burger Parties: Recipes from Sutter Home Winery's Build a Better Burger Contest" by James McNair and Jeffrey Starr (Ten Speed, 2010, $19.99)

Stuffed Prosciutto Sliders

PG tested

Even though they dripped with juice, we found these burgers a little dry. So you may want to substitute a ground chuck for the sirloin. Sweet sun-dried tomatoes marry perfectly with the salty feta and prosciutto.

• 6 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped basil
• 3/4 cup crumbled feta cheese
• 1/4 cup drained and chopped oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes
• 1 pound ground sirloin
• 1 egg, lightly beaten
• 1 1/2 teaspoons Tabasco pepper sauce
• 1 tablespoon dried Italian seasoning, crushed
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
• 1 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1/4 cup Italian-style bread crumbs
• 1/4 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese
• 6 squares foccacia bread, halved horizontally
• 6 thin prosciutto sliced, folded to fit bread
• 6 inner leaves romaine lettuce, trimmed to fit bread
• 6 paper-thin slices red onion, separated into rings

Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill with a cover, or preheat a gas grill to medium heat.

Combine mayonnaise and chopped basil in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate until assembling the burgers.

Make patties by combining the feta and tomatoes in a small bowl. Divine into 6 equal portions, form into balls and set aside. Combine ground sirloin, egg, pepper sauce, Italian seasoning, salt, pepper, garlic, bread crumbs and parmesan in a bowl. Handling the meat as little as possible to avoid compacting it, mix well. Form the mixture into 12 equal thin patties to fit the bread squares. Place a ball of the feta mixture into the center of 6 of the patties and press down lightly to spread. Place the remaining patties on top, press down lightly, and seal the edges to totally enclose the filling, forming 6 patties total.

Brush grill rack with vegetable oil. Place the patties on the rack, cover, and cook, turning once, until done to preference, about 5 minutes on each side for medium. During the last few minutes cooking, place the focaccia squares, cut side down, on the outer edges of the rack to toast lightly.

To assemble: Spread the basil mayonnaise over the cut sides of the bread bottom. On each bread bottom, place a patty, prosciutto slice, lettuce leaf and some red onion rings. Add the bread tops and serve.

Serves 6.

-- "Burger Parties: Recipes from Sutter Home Winery's Build a Better Burger Contest" by James McNair and Jeffrey Starr (Ten Speed, 2010, $19.99)

Mexican Bean Burgers

PG tested

Beans are the foundation of Mexican cooking, along with garlic, cumin and coriander. These veggie burgers incorporate all of the above. Even devout carnivores will find them a tasty change from meat.

• 2 14-ounce cans pinto beans
• 1 tablespoon canola oil
• 3/4 cup finely chopped onion
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tablespoons ground coriander
• 4 teaspoons each all-purpose flour and ground cumin
• 1/2 teaspoon each salt and freshly ground pepper
• 6 hamburger or sesame seed buns
• Sliced avocado, sour cream, shredded Monterey jack cheese, mild or medium salsa for toppings

Mash pinto beans with a fork or a potato masher; set aside.

Heat oil on medium-high in nonstick skillet; cook onions and garlic for 5 minutes until tender. Add coriander, flour, cumin, salt and pepper; cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add onion mixture to pinto beans and stir well.

Cut 6 squares of waxed paper. Divide bean mixture into 6 equal amounts. Shape into patties on each square.

Preheat grill to medium. Carefully place patties on well-oiled grill rack. Close lid and grill for 4 minutes per side. Heat buns during last part of grilling.

Place a patty in each warmed bun and serve with choice of toppings.

Makes 6 burgers.

-- "All Fired Up! Year Round Grilling and Barbecuing" by Margaret Howard (Firefly, 2010, $24.95)

Burger Rolls

OK, so this isn't technically a burger. (Americans generally like their hamburgers round.) But the assignment was to find untraditional tastes for the grill. If it makes you feel better, simply wrap the roll in a hot dog bun and douse it in ketchup.

• 2 pounds ground chuck
• 1 cup grated cheddar cheese
• 1 yellow onion, chopped
• 20 saltine crackers, crushed into crumbs
• 1/4 cup packed brown sugar
• 1 cup milk
• 2 tablespoons barbecue sauce, plus more for basting
• 1/2 teaspoon celery seeds
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 12 slices bacon

Prepare either a medium-hot grill or a smoker.

In a large bowl, combine the ground chuck, cheese, onion, cracker crumbs, brown sugar, milk, barbecue sauce, celery seeds, black pepper and salt. Use your hands or a heavy spoon to mix well. Divide the mixture into 12 thick, log-shaped rolls. Wrap each roll with bacon, securing the ends with toothpicks.

Place the logs on the grill or smoker and baste with barbecue sauce. Cover the grill or smoker. Grill for 30 to 45 minutes, turning every 10 minutes, until done, or smoke for about 1 hour and 25 minutes, until done, turning less frequently.

Serves 12.

-- "Kansas City Barbecue Society Cookbook, 25th Anniversary Edition" by Ardie David, Chef Paul Kirk and Carolyn Wells (Andrews McMeel, 2010, $24.99)

Tortilla-Crusted Stuffed Portobello Burgers

• 8 small portobello mushrooms
• 3 cups plain tortilla chips
• 1 cup cooked black beans
• 4 ounces queso blanco cheese (about 1/2 cup)
• 2 tablespoons roughly chopped cilantro
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 3 tablespoons white rice or all-purpose flour
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 1/4 cup olive oil

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Lightly grease a baking sheet.

Trim the stems from the mushrooms and scrape out the gills with a spoon. Place the caps rounded sides up on the prepared baking sheet. Roast, flipping every 5 minutes, for 15 to 20 minutes, until mushrooms are tender and have given off most of their liquid.

Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees.

In a food processor, pulse the tortilla chips until uniformly ground. Transfer the crumbs to a shallow bowl and set aside. Add black beans, queso fresco, cilantro and 1/2 teaspoon of salt to processor and puree.

To assemble burgers: Sandwich 2 heaping tablespoons of the bean mixture between 2 roasted mushrooms, rounded sides out. Repeat to make 4 burgers.

Combine flour and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt in a second shallow bowl. Place beaten eggs in a third bowl. Dredge each burger in flour, then the egg, letting the excess drip off, and then coat with tortilla crumbs.

In an oven-proof skillet or nonstick saute pan, heat oil over medium heat. When hot, add burgers and cook until golden brown on each side, 6 to 10 minutes total. Transfer pan to oven and bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until burger exteriors are uniformly browned and the breading fully firmed.

Makes 4 burgers.

-- "Veggie Burgers Every Which Way" by Lukas Volger (The Experiment, July 2010, $16.95)

Gretchen McKay: gmckay@post-gazette.com or 412-263-1419.

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First published on May 27, 2010 at 12:00 am