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On the Table: Best New Brunches
More options spring up to answer that weekend wake-up call
Thursday, April 22, 2010

In the past year or so, many new options have joined the local brunch scene, including some that could lure even the most dedicated late-sleeper out of bed. Here are some of the best. Next week, check back for even more brunch suggestions, some new, some old, all delicious.

E², Highland Park

(Saturday, Sunday 9 a.m.-3 p.m.)

The newest outpost of the Enrico Biscotti Company opened its doors during a snowstorm and still managed to generate immediate buzz. "We were looking for a production kitchen ... to do catering and production baking," explained Kate Romane, who runs the Highland Park location, "but then we found the space in Highland Park, and it's such a cute neighborhood we decided to open for brunch a day or two a week."

The menu is a well-edited collection of sweet, savory and somewhere-in-between options. Start off with a little something to nibble while you contemplate your options and enjoy the lovely (if the tiniest bit cramped) space. Miniature sourdough ginger sugar doughnuts ($5) come in paper bags, while a plate of zeppoli, fried dough pastries, were covered in a shower of freshly shaved parmesan and black pepper ($5).

The food was as attractive as the sun-filled room. "Mush" sounds humble, but looked like a still-life painting, a perfect, golden square of polenta with a drizzle of maple syrup, a spicy fennel sausage and a crusty brioche roll ($8). The Diplomatico ($9), a sweet berry bread layered with sweet cream and pecans, was like a cross between a cream-filled pastry and luscious French toast, yet managed to avoid being too sweet. The lovely assemblage of brioche, truffle honey-drizzled camembert, apple slices, grapes and a little salad ($10) was like the perfect Italian picnic, proving that cheese plates are for breakfast, too.

E², 5904 Bryant St., Highland Park, www.enricobiscotti.com, 412-441-1200.

Kaya, Strip District

(Sunday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.)

Kaya didn't reinvent the wheel -- the menu consists mostly of brunch classics as well as some favorite standards from the dinner menu -- but it manages to tweak each dish enough to make it special, while still hitting all the comfort notes of the original.

The slow-roasted pork benedict was the best version of this dish that I have ever tried. Instead of English muffins there are two rounds of crisp cornbread, topped with slow roasted, shredded, slightly sweet pork, two perfectly poached eggs and a savory smoked pepper hollandaise. The plate is rounded out with classic hash browns (perfect for sopping up gooey egg yolk and hollandaise) and a small pile of grilled pineapple that emphasizes the sweetness of the pork. You can also get the benedict with smoked salmon or soy sausage ($12).

Toast isn't favored here; instead, many dishes come with grilled flour tortillas (courtesy of Reyna's, of course), such as the huevos rancheros, a gut-busting plate of two eggs any way you like 'em, black beans, Colorado sauce, spicy chorizo, guacamole and more of the hash browns and pineapple ($10). If you sometimes leave brunch hungry, this is the thing to order.

There are brunch cocktails, but if you'd rather start your Sunday sans alcohol, be sure to ask about the fresh juice of the day.

Kaya, 2000 Smallman St., Strip District, www.bigburrito.com/kaya, 412-261-6565.

J'eet, Lawrenceville

(Saturday, Sunday, 10 a.m.-3 p.m.)

Owner Marc Stern lived in California for years, and while he's not the chef at J'eet (that's Jacob Vanderwak, previously at Cornerstone in Aspinwall), the West Coast influence pops up in the produce-packed salads and inventive crepes and sandwiches. The extensive brunch menu is no different, with options such as the Brentwood (a neighborhood in L.A.) bagel with crisp bacon, creamy avocado and a fried egg ($8). Avocado and eggs are always a heavenly combination, and the addition of bacon made a simple bagel sandwich downright decadent.

In fact the biggest difference between the lunch and brunch menu is an extra dose of indulgence. Try a crepe with house-made gravlax and a fried egg and hollandaise. Or, for dessert, the terrapin crepe, a gooey, scrumptious mess of nutella, caramel and walnuts ($6.50). There's no need to choose between sweet and savory crepes -- you can have both, at a great price. The brunch prix fixe includes unlimited orange juice or coffee (from Commonplace in Indiana, Pa.), a choice of soup or salad, a choice of one of two savory crepes and a choice of dessert crepes, all for $15.

J'eet, 4100 Penn Ave., Lawrenceville, www.jeetcafe.com, 412-682-5338.

Stagioni, Bloomfield

(Sunday, 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.)

Despite the gray weather on a recent Sunday morning, the lovely open-faced smoked salmon sandwich with asparagus, goat cheese and chive oil ($10) made it easy to think spring. Even Stagioni's simplest options have special touches, such as the bacon and eggs with crispy ribbons of pancetta ($8). Those who have a hard time choosing between sweet and savory options will love that you can get a side of a single fluffy ricotta pancake or a pistachio belgian waffle ($4). Carefully brewed French press pots are another asset, making it that much easier to make it through the rest of Sunday without a nap.

Stagioni, 4770 Liberty Ave., Bloomfield, www.stagionipgh.com, 412-687-5775.

OTHER NEW BRUNCHES

One of the challenges of brunch is that it only happens once (occasionally twice) a week. Here are a few spots I didn't get a chance to try, but that I look forward to visiting in the future.

Cornerstone Restaurant and Bar, Aspinwall (Sunday, 10 a.m.-3 p.m.), is known for putting a creative spin on classic comfort food. Their brunch menu offers plenty of lunch stuff along with eggs and sweet dishes. Two dishes I can't wait to try are the Cornerstone scramble with ground lamb, roasted tomatoes, onions, spinach, feta cheese and scrambled eggs ($12) and the stuffed French Toast with nutella and banana between challah French toast ($9). 301 Freeport Road, Aspinwall, www.cornerstonepgh.com, 412-408-3420.

Paris 66, East Liberty (Sunday, 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m.), gets in on the brunch prix fixe trend with the "French Breakfast formule." For $15, it includes two pancakes with berry puree or syrup, eggs provencale (tomato, feta, pesto); a croissant, pain au chocolat or palmier, and orange juice or coffee; or select from an a la carte menu with a small assortment of sweet and savory options. 6018 Penn Circle South, East Liberty, www.paris66bistro.com, 412-404-8166.

Brillobox, Lawrenceville (Saturday 11 a.m.-5 p.m.), has a fairly limited brunch menu -- at least when it comes to food. But when it comes to brunch drinks, it is a font of creativity. Almost two dozen options include classics such as a mimosa ($4) and bloody mary ($5), but the Brillobox also expands the definition of brunch cocktail to include the morning margarita ($7), gin fixer ($7) and melon mint fizz ($7). 4104 Penn Ave., Lawrenceville, www.brillobox.net, 412-621-4900.

China Millman: 412-263-1198 or cmillman@post-gazette.com. Follow China on Twitter at http://twitter.com/chinamillman.
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First published on April 22, 2010 at 12:00 am