Finally it's spring, when a young man's fancy turns lightly to -- fresh seasonal recipes?

Well, many men of all ages and I are fancying those right now, especially after the winter we had.

London chef Jose Pizarro, in collaboration with food writer Vicky Bennison, this week published the American version of a book full of them: "Seasonal Spanish Food: 125 Simple Recipes Bring Home the Flavors of Spain" (Kyle, $32.95).

Originally published in the United Kingdom late last year, the book is a finalist for a Julia Child Award -- for a first book -- at next month's International Association of Culinary Professionals gathering.

Mr. Pizarro is a native of a village in Extremadura, Spain, who worked at a Michelin-starred restaurant near Madrid before moving to London. He now runs the kitchens of London's four Brindisa restaurants, which share a name with a company (brindisa.com) that imports Spanish foods.

Smoked paprika. Membrillo. Marinated anchovies. Padron and piquillo peppers.

The book will make you hunger for them in all seasons, starting in spring, when Mr. Pizarro guides you in cooking with artichokes, fava beans, asparagus, spinach, eggs and other first signs of life.

He also sprinkles in a bit about his homeland's traditions, including Easter, which in rural Spain is marked by processions, vigils and services, some somber and some raucous.

"Easter is a quieter occasion in Talavan," he writes. "As a family, we always make sure we are at home with my parents. And there is, of course, food to be eaten. Good Friday is meatless, so we have a stew of Swiss chard, salt cod and potatoes. Easter Sunday lunch is a casserole of cabrito (kid [goat]), followed by leche frita (literally "fried milk"). Often the weather is beautiful, so quite a few of our friends venture into the countryside and have a paella picnic. Chocolate Easter eggs don't happen, but we do eat a lot of sweet, honeyed pastries; torrija, slices of fried bread flavored with cinnamon, is a popular snack throughout Lent."

He shares his family Easter recipes of Cabrito and Leche Frita.

This is the latest in a string of good Spanish cookbooks that have been coming out in the past couple of, well, seasons.

I'm still a bit awestruck by one described as "Spain's 'Joy of Cooking' " -- "1080 Recipes," which Phaidon published in English for the first time in November 2007. This true bible of Spanish cooking was updated by Simone and Ines Ortega, and designed and fabulously illustrated by Javier Mariscal. Mr. Pizarro was one of the celebrated "guest chefs" who contributed a menu that included Fillet Steak on Toast with Caramelized Onions and Melted Cheese, which he also shares in "Seasonal Spanish Food," under Autumn.

"This recipe is a result of playing with the memories and flavors from my childhood," he writes. "I remember being scared of the unwashed and silent farmers who used to come to the door in early summer selling Torta de Barros cheese -- which was sealed in boxes to contain the fetid-feet stench. ..."

I'm so looking forward to cooking with him and his book in all of the coming seasons.

At a time when every cookbook seems to be trying too hard to be seasonal and simple, Chef Pizarro comes by it naturally.

Pea Soup with Serrano Ham

PG tested

"This is a soup for late spring, when there is still a bit of a chill in the air," Jose Pizarro writes about this easy recipe. "It's best made with fresh peas but, since these quickly turn to starch, frozen ones -- which keep their sweetness -- are a thoroughly acceptable substitute."

A colleague of mine sniffed at the idea of frozen peas, but I used good-quality organic ones from Cascadian Farm, and the soup totally rocked.

-- Bob Batz Jr.

• 8 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
• 1 shallot, diced
• 1 garlic clove, finely chopped
• 1 quart chicken stock
• 28 ounces shelled peas
• 4 thin slices of white bread from a small loaf
• 4 thin slices of Serrano ham
• Small bunch of mint, leaves stripped
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Saute the shallot and garlic until soft and golden. Pour in the chicken stock, bring to a boil, and add the peas. Simmer for 4 minutes.

While stock and peas are simmering, you can start cooking the bread and ham. Heat remaining oil in a small frying pan until oil starts to shimmer. Slide the bread, 2 slices at a time, into oil and cook until golden on both sides. Remove and place on paper towels to absorb excess oil. Repeat process with the ham -- you want it crisp and browned. Use more oil if necessary.

Stir the mint leaves into the soup, then use a hand blender to process the mixture to a smooth puree. Season with salt and pepper.

To serve, make 4 open sandwiches by laying a slice of ham onto each slice of toast. Ladle the soup into warm bowls and then, a bit like launching a paper boat onto a pond, gently float one ham-topped toast in each bowl. Drizzle a little olive oil over each serving. Serves 4.

-- "Seasonal Spanish Food" by Jose Pizarro (Kyle, March 2010, $32.95)

Catalan spinach

PG tested

This delicious recipe, a favorite of customers at Jose Pizarro's Brindisa restaurants, couldn't be easier. "In Catalonia they like to cook the spinach so that it's completely collapsed and wilted," he writes, "whereas I prefer it fresh and tossed only briefly in the hot oil. As there is quite a lot of spinach, you can cook it in 2 batches."

• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1 small shallot, finely diced
• 1/4 cup pine nuts
• 1/4 cup golden raisins
• 12 ounces baby spinach leaves
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the olive oil in a large wok. Add the shallot, pine nuts, and raisins and cook until golden.

Add the spinach and toss the leaves with the other ingredients (as you would a salad). The idea is to warm the spinach through -- be careful not to overcook it.

Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Serves 4.

-- "Seasonal Spanish Food" by Jose Pizarro (Kyle, March 2010, $32.95)

Chocolate Toast

PG tested

"The Spanish equivalent of Nutella is called Nocilla," writes Jose Pizarro. "My routine after school was to go home via my grandmother Gregoria, who would make me chocolate spread toast. This is the grown-up equivalent, developed with my friend Enric Rovira -- a well-known chocolatier in Spain.

"The salt and floral extra virgin olive oil bring out the flavor of the plain chocolate. Try to use top-quality extra virgin olive oil, such as an Arbequina from Catalonia, and dark chocolate that contains at least 70 percent cocoa solids; make sure you choose a thin not chunky bar, because you want the chocolate to melt quickly. We made it with Enric's beautiful dark chocolate, which has a pattern on it that replicates the street tiles used to pave the sidewalks in Barcelona.

"This goes wonderfully with orange sorbet."

• 4 thin slices of good-quality white bread
• 16 squares of plain chocolate (70 percent cocoa solids)
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
• 1 teaspoon top-quality extra virgin olive oil

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Toast the bread. Arrange 4 squares of chocolate on each slice, place on a baking tray, and bake for 30 seconds, until the chocolate starts to melt.

Remove and sprinkle with a few crystals of sea salt and some drops of olive oil.

Serves 4.

-- "Seasonal Spanish Food" by Jose Pizarro (Kyle, March 2010, $32.95)

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