"It's not just the ship itself and all the facilities that deserve the highest rating -- but the myriad details, outstanding cuisine and, above all, the personal and discrete service offered by the excellent crew," said Douglas Ward, longtime editor of the "Berlitz Guide to Cruising and Cruise Ships."

For the 10th consecutive year, he ranked the Europa the world's best cruise ship and the only passenger liner of the 274 profiled to rate "5 Star Plus," earning 1,851 points out of a possible 2,000.

Cruise Critic.com agrees, calling the Europa "the industry's most intriguing -- and upscale -- cruise ship," even though she doesn't rank in the top 10 on any of its polls based on traveler-voting.

That's because, those superlative ratings notwithstanding, this paragon of plushness plies the world's seven seas 12 months a year under the radar of most English-speaking travelers.

Flagship of the four-vessel cruise fleet run by Hapag-Lloyd, the shipping giant created by the 1970 merger of two 150-year-old German steamship companies, this Europa is the fourth liner to sail under that name, each more elegantly modern than the last. Talk about a tradition of excellence.

This Europa was immediately hailed as the world's most luxurious cruise liner when launched in 1999, partly because the high Continental food and service standards of her predecessors were so scrupulously maintained and partly because, although the same size, she was built to accommodate 20 percent fewer passengers (ship space per passenger being a big factor in luxury cruise ratings).

Yet because German is the primary language on all four Hapag-Lloyd cruise ships and German-speakers comprise the vast majority of the Europa's very upscale passenger lists and crew members, it does not attract as much attention on this side of the Atlantic as other upscale vessels.

But language issues aside, what do these all luxury rankings really mean? How good can good be? There's only one way to discover for sure.

Last November my wife, Sari, and I found ourselves in the sunny Spanish city of Barcelona, boarding this nautical nirvana for a five-night voyage to Casablanca, Morocco, with daylong port calls in Valencia, Cadiz, and Portimao, Portugal. Sailings range from three to 24 days and start at about $1,500 per day per couple.

Small in comparison with modern mega-liners, the Europa offers a mere seven decks to its passengers, allowing for a relatively intimate, personalized experience reminiscent of being a guest on a private yacht.

Although on the lowest cabin deck and among the smaller on the all-suite ship, our cabin was remarkable. Elegantly appointed and surprisingly spacious, with separate sleeping and sitting areas, a huge walk-in closet and a large marble-lined bathroom with a stall shower and full-sized bathtub, it was more like a room in a luxury hotel than any of the nearly 20 cruise ships I have sailed on.

In-room entertainment included a selection of TV channels and movies. In addition to a phone, the free e-mail proved handy (although Internet access was quite costly), as did a mini-bar stocked with complimentary beverages.

But the cabin's best feature was our private veranda open to the sea relatively close to the waterline. We were often inclined to spend ship time sitting there sipping coffee or wine, reading, talking and watching the waves roll by.

The peace that comes with that privacy may be the most precious luxury a cruise ship can offer.

This is not to imply the Europa lacks for activity options, only that they tend to be understated. Since wellness is an underlying theme, there are plush fitness and workout rooms, a large, long pool with a retractable roof where one could swim laps in any weather, and a golf simulator for those so inclined. The ship's large spa features a comprehensive array of treatments, and a very upscale boutique and jeweler's shop offers diversion for those who don't get enough shopping during daylong shore excursions.

Because of the ambitious itinerary, which gave us full days to explore three charming cities at our own pace and interest, much of our ship time was spent sleeping or eating. From morning coffee to late dinners, the dining was superb, living up to the Europa's superlative ratings.

The main dining room can accommodate the entire ship at once and yet offers elegant, multi-course, a la carte dining, while the smaller dining rooms provide more intimate meals. All had a Continental formality. Breakfast and lunch were casual, but jackets and ties were suggested for men at dinner, and one evening most guests wore a gown or tux.

Wherever we raised a fork or glass, the wait staff was simultaneously attentive and discrete, and every morsel or drop was delectable. Because everything was of the highest quality, exquisitely prepared and presented in portions that were small but satisfying, I felt less of an urge to overindulge than on many other cruises I've taken.

As far as the language issue, most of the ship's daily life is conducted in German (which I speak somewhat). While key communications, signage and printed materials generally offered English translations and most staff and many passengers spoke at least some English, other activities, from most shore excursions and afternoon lectures and evening entertainments, were conducted almost completely in German. So although language was not a particular problem, it definitely was a limiting factor.

Still all in all, I'd have to concur with the experts. The Europa certainly does provide cruising at its most luxurious, especially for wealthy, worldly travelers who are looking for a relatively intimate and decidedly authentic European experience.