PG-tested

Citrus fruits provide a much-needed zing when it's cold and gray outside. This creamy winter pasta dish gets it pucker from blanched lemon zest. It's redolent of the regional dishes served on the Amalfi Coast in southern Italy, where the lemons are as large as grapefruit. I served it with toasted and buttered ciabatta, but any crusty bread would do.

• 2 lemons
• Coarse sea salt
• 1 pound farfalle (bow-tie pasta)
• 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
• 1 1/4 cups heavy cream
• 4 ounces smoked or regular mozzarella cheese, coarsely grated (about 1 cup) plus more for serving

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.

Using a sharp knife or vegetable peeler, cut zest from lemons in long strips, avoiding white pith. Save lemons for another use. Very thinly slice strips lengthwise and transfer to a fine-mesh sieve. Lower sieve into boiling water just until zest is submerged. Blanch zest for 3 minutes, then transfer to a bowl.

Generously salt boiling water. Add pasta and cook until al dente.

Meanwhile, melt butter in a medium-heavy saucepan over medium heat; add rosemary, then stir in zest. Whisk in cream, bring mixture to a gentle simmer, and cook until cream is flavorful and slightly reduced, about 8 minutes. Cover to keep warm.

Drain pasta and return to pot. While pasta is hot, add cream mixture and stir to combine, then add cheese, in thirds, stirring after each addition. Season to taste with salt. Serve immediately, with extra cheese for sprinkling.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

-- La Cucina Italiana magazine, February 2010

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