Think corn bread (yeast-raised), not corn bread (baking powder-raised). These loaves are dense, with a thick, crackly crust. It uses a mix of roughly half flour and half fine cornmeal, with Goya the preferred brand. It goes well with any hearty soup, stew, or meat or poultry dishes. Find Goya brand cornmeal at Reyna Foods in the Strip District.

• 2 packages active dry yeast
• 1 cup warm water (110 degrees)
• 3 1/2 cups bread flour, divided, plus more for dusting
• 2 cups fine yellow corn meal (preferably Goya brand)
• 2 tablespoons kosher salt
• 11/4 cups boiling water (plus more warm water for making steam in the oven)
• Coarse cornmeal for dusting

Dissolve the yeast in the warm water in a small bowl and let stand until the liquid is foamy, about 10 minutes. Stir in 11/2 cups bread flour and cover with plastic wrap, and place in a warm spot until doubled in size, about 45 minutes.

Dump the fine cornmeal and salt into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Pour in the boiling water and mix on medium speed until a firm dough clumps together, about 3 minutes. Let sit until the yeast mixture is ready.

Switch to the mixer's dough hook, scoop in the remaining 2 cups of bread flour and the yeast mixture, and knead on low, adding more flour, a bit at a time if needed, until the mixture comes together into a firm, elastic dough that cleans the sides of the bowl, about 7 minutes.

Line a 13-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment and sprinkle with coarse cornmeal; set aside. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead a few times. If the dough is sticking, sprinkle with a bit of flour. Cut the dough in half and shape each piece into a ball. Take 1 ball in both hands and stretch the sides of the dough down and under, making an oval, then turn 90 degrees and repeat, creating a smooth round with a tight surface. Securely pinch the seams closed underneath and turn seam side down. Repeat with the second ball of dough. Dust the loaves heavily with bread flour. Transfer to the baking sheet, cover with a tea towel and let rise in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in size, about 45 minutes.

Position a rack in the middle of the oven. Place a heavy-bottomed skillet on the floor of the oven, and crank up the heat to 475 degrees.

Uncover the loaves and slide the baking sheet into the oven, then lean back and pour 11/2 cups of hot water into the skillet. Close the door quickly. (The steam will create a lovely crispy crust.) Wait 5 minutes, and repeat with the water. Bake until the loaves are golden brown and crackly -- charred in spots isn't a bad thing -- and sound hollow when thwacked on the bottom, 35 to 45 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool until just warm.

The bread is best devoured the same day. Eat 1 and freeze 1 for next time. Makes 2 round loaves.

-- "The New Portuguese Table" by David Leite

• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 8 ounces dry-cured smoked Spanish chorizo or chourico, cut into 1/4-inch coins
• 1/4-inch-thick slice prosciutto or serrano ham, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1/4-inch cubes
• 2 medium yellow onions, cut lengthwise in half and sliced into thin half-moons
• 1 Turkish bay leaf
• 4 fat garlic cloves, minced
• 28-ounce can whole-peeled or diced tomatoes, preferably San Marzano
• 1/4 cup dry white wine
• 1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
• 4 pounds small clams, such as manilla or littlenecks, scrubbed and rinsed
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 3 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
• Hot crusty country-style bread

Heat the oil in a large cataplana or pot with a tight-fitting lid over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Dump in the chorizo and prosciutto and cook, stirring occasionally, until touched with brown, 6 to 8 minutes.

Lower the heat to medium, drop in the onions and bay leaf, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Stir in the tomatoes, the wine and paprika.

Discard any clams that feel heavy (that means they're full of sand), have broken shells or don't close when tapped. Plonk the clams into the pot and turn the heat to high. If using a pot, cook, covered, until the clams pop open, from 7 to 10 minutes. (If using a cataplana, lock it and cook for 6 minutes on one side, then carefully flip it and cook until the clams open, about 4 to 6 minutes more.)

With the lid on, carry the dish in its cooking pot to the table. Make sure your audience is seated, then "ta-dah," open the lid and bask in the certain applause.

Season with a generous grind of pepper, shower with parsley and ladle the stew into wide shallow bowls. Serve with warm bread for sopping the delicious broth. P.S. Be sure to have a large bowl on hand for the shells.

Serves 4 as a main course or 6 as a starter.

-- "The New Portuguese Table" by David Leite (Clarkson Potter, 2009, $32.50)

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