Harira (spicy bean soup)

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During Ramadan, "there are lots of substantial vegetarian dishes, such as this bean soup, that are sold at the food stalls and in the night markets after the sun has set," writes author Tom Kine.

He notes that you can use any combination of dried legumes and different spices in this soup, the flavors of which improve the next day. This recipe is really spicy. I wound up wishing I'd heeded the first part of his suggestion: "Serve with a spoon of cooling yogurt in the center of each bowl and lots of fresh crusty bread."

-- Bob Batz Jr.

• 1/2 cup dried chickpeas
• 1/2 cup dried cannellini beans or fava beans or butter beans
• 1/2 cup dried split green peas
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 tablespoon coriander seeds
• 1 tablespoon cumin seeds
• 2 small dried chilies
• 1 teaspoon ground cloves
• 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 2 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and grated
• 3 garlic cloves
• Oil for cooking
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 3 onions, finely chopped
• 8 ripe tomatoes, coarsely grated
• 1/2 cup red or yellow lentils, picked and rinsed
• Juice of 1 lemon plus a little extra to finish
• 1/2 bunch of fresh cilantro, leaves coarsely chopped
• Salt and fresh ground black pepper

Soak the chickpeas and cannellini beans overnight in plenty of cold water. The split green peas need only be soaked for 2 hours. Drain and rinse the chickpeas and beans. Put in a large pan, cover with lots of cold water, and add the baking soda. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat, and simmer for 40 to 60 minutes until the beans are cooked, but not mushy. As they are simmering, skim off any scum that rises to the top. Drain and rinse.

Meanwhile, using a pestle and mortar, grind the coriander seeds, cumin seeds and dried chilies into a fine powder. Add the cloves, cayenne pepper, ginger, and garlic, and work into a paste. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a heavy pan over medium-high heat. Add the spice mixture and cinnamon stick. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring frequently, until fragrant. Reduce the heat to medium, add the onion and cook for about 10 minutes until the onion starts to brown. Add the tomato pulp; cook until any excess liquid has evaporated. Rinse the split green peas, mix into the tomato mixture with the lentils. Next add 7 cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the rinsed chickpeas and beans. Mix together. Season well and add the lemon juice. Add half the cilantro. Let the soup sit off the heat for 5 minutes, then check the seasoning.

To serve, garnish with the remaining cilantro and a little extra squeeze of lemon juice.

-- "Street Food: Re-creating the World's Most Authentic Tastes" by Tom Kime (Dorling Kindersley, 2007)

Harira

PG tested

This is a very meaty, very easy, and very tasty, version of the Moroccan soup. It's also very customizable; I used lamb precut for kabobs and some smoked Spanish paprika as well.

-- Bob Batz Jr.

• 1 pound, 2 ounces lamb shoulder steaks
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 small onions, chopped
• 2 large garlic cloves, crushed
• 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 2 teaspoons hot Spanish paprika
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 4 cups beef stock
• 2 10 1/2-ounce cans chickpeas
• 2 14-ounce cans chopped tomatoes
• 2 large handfuls cilantro leaves, finely chopped, plus extra to garnish
• 2 large handfuls Italian parsley, finely chopped

Trim the lamb steaks of excess fat and sinew. Cut the lamb into small chunks. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, add the onion and garlic, and cook over low heat for 5 minutes, or until the onion is soft. Add the meat, increase the heat to medium, and stir until the meat changes color.

Add the cumin, paprika, and bay leaf to the pan and cook until fragrant. Add the tomato paste and cook for about 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the beef stock to the pan, stir well, and bring to a boil.

Drain and rinse the chickpeas and add to the pan, along with the tomatoes, chopped cilantro, and parsley. Stir, then bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 2 hours, or until the meat is tender. Stir occasionally. Season, to taste. Garnish with the extra cilantro and serve with flatbread.

-- "The Spice Bible: Essential Information and More than 250 Recipes Using Spices, Spice Mixes, and Spice Pastes" by Jane Lawson (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2008, $29.95)

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