On cold winter days, nothing comforts like a bowl or mug of hearty soup. This one makes enough for a gang of cross-country skiers or snowman builders. It is loaded with flavor and texture and has a surprising flash of peppery heat on the palate. Add soft rolls and butter and a salad and dinner is ready.

• 1 medium yellow onion, diced
• 3 cloves garlic, chopped
• 3 large leeks, white part only, sliced
• 2 carrots, peeled and diced
• 3 stalks celery, diced
• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1 medium delicata squash, or 2 acorn squash, peeled and diced
• 3 small zucchini, diced
• 1 butternut squash, peeled and cubed
• 2 jalapeno peppers, seeded and diced
• 1 red bell pepper, diced
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 51/2 cups good rich chicken or turkey stock
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
• 3 tablespoons finely diced candied ginger
• Creme fraiche
• 3 tablespoons finely chopped toasted hazelnuts

In a large, deep skillet or saucepan, saute the onion, garlic, leeks, carrots and celery in the olive oil until soft. Add all the squash, zucchini and the peppers. Saute until blended with the other ingredients. Season to taste and add the chicken stock. Simmer over medium heat until the squash is soft, about 15 minutes.

Puree the soup with an immersion blender or in a food processor. Remove 2 cups of the puree and set aside. Pass the remainder through a fine sieve. Then combine both mixtures in the skillet or saucepan. This can be done a day or two in advance if you wish.

Before serving, heat the soup. Add the cream, thyme and ginger to the soup, and reheat but do not boil. Ladle the hot soup into bowls. Top each serving with a generous spoonful of creme fraiche and sprinkle with hazelnuts.

Makes 12 servings.

-- Adapted from: "Thanksgiving Dinner" by Anthony Dias Blue and Kathryn K. Blue (Harpercollins, 1990).

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