Swanson, of TV dinner and broth fame and with the big Superman-ish logo on its packages, has added a similar product to their line: Cooking stock.

Don't I already have a can or two of chicken stock in the pantry, I wondered? No, the cans on my shelves are chicken broth. I thought they were the same thing, but maybe not. Since we are in high gravy-making season, let's clarify the difference.

I consulted the experts: Mark Bittman, author of "How to Cook Everything"; Cook's Illustrated, the brainiest magazine on the newsstand; and Google, everybody's one-stop Web-reference. They all agree. Sort of. The short version is this: Stock is the unseasoned liquid cooking on the stove; broth is seasoned liquid in the bowl.

Mr. Bittman: The terms stock and broth are often used interchangeably. But technically, the basic ingredient made from scratch is called stock; the enhanced, almost ready-to-serve soup is called broth.

Cook's Illustrated: For many cooks, the terms are synonymous. Broth is made with a whole chicken or chicken parts and is simmered until the chicken is done. Then the chicken is pulled from the pot and skinned, and the meat is used in soup or salad. Stock is made from meaty bones, usually from the back or wings. The bones are simmered until they are completely spent, having given every bit of flavor to the liquid. The bones are discarded once the stock has been strained.

Google: The basic difference between a stock and a broth is this: A broth is seasoned (usually with salt) and a stock is not. A stock is never served on its own; a broth may be. A stock is an unfinished product that is waiting to be transformed into a soup or sauce by the cook.

For comparison, I bought a carton of Swanson chicken stock ($3.45 for 26 ounces) and a can of its broth ($2.49, 14 ounces).

The Swanson stock has good flavor and color and is convenient to use. Anything leftover has a good shelf life in the package in the fridge. I could doctor it according to the recipe used. It's a good solution for small-batch sauce or gravy-making.

The Swanson broth, in contrast, smells chicken-y enough, but it has unpleasant tinny, vegetal flavors. And any leftovers would have to be transferred to a container with a lid. I'm going to switch, and next time, I'll buy the stock.

But why not make it yourself?

If you have a freezer, make a pot of homemade stock, divvy it up into containers and you'll have it on hand when you want it. Use local ingredients and you'll feel virtuous, too.

For about two quarts of rich, quick stock, saute onions and chicken or turkey pieces to brown, then sweat them, covered. Add water, and simmer about an hour. Here's how, according to Cook's Illustrated.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large stockpot or soup kettle. Add one medium onion, chopped, and saute until colored and softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the onion to a large bowl.

Working in batches, add 4 pounds of chicken backs, wings or whole legs and saute until no longer pink, 4 to 5 minutes. As batches cook, transfer the partly cooked chicken pieces to the bowl with the onions. When all the pieces are brown, return them with the onions to the pot.

Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook until the chicken releases its juices, about 20 minutes. This is the important part.

Increase the heat to high, add 2 quarts boiling water, 2 teaspoons salt, and a piece of bay leaf. Return to a simmer, then cover and barely simmer until the broth is rich and flavorful, anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour.

Strain the liquid, discard the solids. Skim the fat or keep it (it adds flavor). Transfer the broth into containers (8-ounce jars, 4-ounce cupcake molds, 1/8-cup ice cube trays) and refrigerate a few days or freeze. Use this stock as a base for soup, risotto or sauces.

Then there's canned broth. Convenient, yes, but delicious, no. Canned broth can be improved, however, if you simmer it with some vegetables and odd parts of chicken -- say, wing tips, neck and gizzard or even a single meaty back. Canned lower-sodium broths are preferable because they avoid off, unidentifiable chemical flavors.

Try this: Place in a medium saucepan: 2 15-ounce cans low-sodium chicken broth, 1 carrot, 1 medium onion, 1 celery stalk and a few sprigs of parsley. Bring up the heat and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Strain and discard the solids.

Because turkey parts are on sale around the holidays, buy a few drumsticks and thighs to stand-in for the chicken. Work ahead, freeze the stock and gravy-making will be easy. And because I never saw a recipe I couldn't improve, I might add a sliced small leek, a carrot, a celery top or two, a clove of garlic and a few peppercorns.

All broth is not chicken, however. Depending on your end use, make broths of beef, mushroom, vegetable, fish or shellfish. Check a cookbook such as "How to Cook Everything" by Mark Bittman for formulas and recipes.

PG tested

On cold winter days, nothing comforts like a bowl or mug of hearty soup. This one makes enough for a gang of cross-country skiers or snowman builders. It is loaded with flavor and texture and has a surprising flash of peppery heat on the palate. Add soft rolls and butter and a salad and dinner is ready.

• 1 medium yellow onion, diced
• 3 cloves garlic, chopped
• 3 large leeks, white part only, sliced
• 2 carrots, peeled and diced
• 3 stalks celery, diced
• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1 medium delicata squash, or 2 acorn squash, peeled and diced
• 3 small zucchini, diced
• 1 butternut squash, peeled and cubed
• 2 jalapeno peppers, seeded and diced
• 1 red bell pepper, diced
• Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 51/2 cups good rich chicken or turkey stock
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
• 3 tablespoons finely diced candied ginger
• Creme fraiche
• 3 tablespoons finely chopped toasted hazelnuts

In a large, deep skillet or saucepan, saute the onion, garlic, leeks, carrots and celery in the olive oil until soft. Add all the squash, zucchini and the peppers. Saute until blended with the other ingredients. Season to taste and add the chicken stock. Simmer over medium heat until the squash is soft, about 15 minutes.

Puree the soup with an immersion blender or in a food processor. Remove 2 cups of the puree and set aside. Pass the remainder through a fine sieve. Then combine both mixtures in the skillet or saucepan. This can be done a day or two in advance if you wish.

Before serving, heat the soup. Add the cream, thyme and ginger to the soup, and reheat but do not boil. Ladle the hot soup into bowls. Top each serving with a generous spoonful of creme fraiche and sprinkle with hazelnuts.

Makes 12 servings.

-- Adapted from: "Thanksgiving Dinner" by Anthony Dias Blue and Kathryn K. Blue (Harpercollins, 1990).

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