
This holiday season, savvy shoppers are learning that the road to couture might run through their current wardrobe.
Local designers are seeing more people coming in for alterations on everything from vintage pieces to last year's cocktail dress. The advent of buying high-fashion bargains online and a down economy have also inspired people to invest in a little couture treatment.
Stephanie Keremes, who has worked as a bridal dress designer with Tomasina in Mt. Lebanon for more than 20 years, is accustomed to repeat clients looking to alter their gowns. Now, she says, she's seeing more formal and evening wear that need an update.
"People are buying less and making their stuff work," says Ms. Keremes. "Garments are not made like they used to. When you get something fitted and sewn correctly, it becomes special."
Tomasina (Stephanie Keremes), 615 Washington Road, Mt. Lebanon, 412-563-7788
Moda Donatella, 520 Washington Road, Mt. Lebanon, 412-343-9917
Buttercup Blues Vintage, Rachel Vallozzi, 412-601-0778; www.rachelvallozzi.com
Threadneedle Street, Zoe Collins, 132 Penn St., Sharpsburg, 412-799-0616
Ms. Keremes says many people have closets full of forgotten clothes that have potential. In some cases, less-expensive items can be made to look high-end. Vintage or heirloom pieces are good investments because the fabrics and details can be more expensive to duplicate with affordable modern textiles.
Some designers such as Rachel Vallozzi specialize in repairing and revamping vintage designs into a modern fit. Alterations can be as simple as changing buttons or adjusting the sleeves. Through her business, Buttercup Blues Vintage, she also provides alterations and home consultations.
Tara Rieland recently came to Ms. Keremes to rework a boutique dress she bought in Chicago for $280.
"I buy things that have potential because I know that I can take them to Stephanie and have them fitted properly," she says.
For an alteration cost of $100, Ms. Rieland says she bought the same confidence she feels when she wears a couture garment.
The success of online shopping has inspired more women to find a trusted local designer who has experience working with fine fabrics and seams.
"I see more people who have bought designers like Alexander McQueen online and never tried it on. So they come in and have it fitted," says Ms. Keremes.
The most popular alterations are hemming and shoulder lifts, she says. This season's trends have made it easier to alter gowns and formal wear. Cutting out a shoulder on a sheath dress or adding a Grecian drape to a strapless number are also popular, she says.
Donna DeGuilio of custom retailer Moda Donatella has seen an increase in clients bringing in garments they bought on a sale rack at Saks Fifth Avenue or through eBay.
"People are buying high-end online, and they get such a good deal it's worth them coming in and getting it worked out," she says.
Her prices start at $75 for formal gowns and average $95 for reworking a blazer.
Alterations are so popular that Ms. DeGuilio says it is now about 60 percent of her business. Recently, she has seen a lot of high-end designers such as Valentino, Ungaro, Dior and Chanel.
Ms. Keremes, whose clients range from local dignitaries to Southern debutantes, says recycling dresses has become so popular that even the upper echelon of ballroom patrons is making changes for a fraction of the New York price of couture.
When it comes to reworking a great gown, Ms. Keremes says clients sometimes ask for changes that are ill-suited for their form. She works with them to find the right details to meet their goal. That can mean thinning a sash, replacing a flower with a bow or using fabric that is more forgiving in an area. Depending on the complexity of the transformation, the investment can begin at $500.
A tip to those looking to rework a garment: Seek out a local designer who has experience building her own clothing because she knows how to reshape a garment. And if you're buying something that you may have altered someday, Ms. Keremes suggests choosing classic colors in rich, dark tones.
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