Every now and then, Munch likes a good gimmick. And by golly, Braddock's Street Side has got one.

Braddock's Street Side is both the hotel bar for the Renaissance Hotel and an outpost of Braddock's American Brasserie, the new too-rich-for-Munch's-blood restaurant inside the hotel.

The name comes not from the downtrodden municipality with a media darling for a mayor, but from the 1794 Whiskey Rebellion, prior to which thousands of farmers and rebels met in North Braddock at Braddock's Hill. And Braddock's Street Side has seized that theme and run with it.

Braddock's Street Side is at 107 Sixth St., Downtown; 412-992-2005.

The menu is printed on an oversized sheet of grayed paper designed to look like an old-timey newspaper. Historical pictures tell the story of the Whiskey Rebellion, sprinkled with fun facts such as "Pittsburgh and the surrounding areas led the evolution of the 'classic cocktail' with the first renditions of what is now known as the Manhattan, Sazerac and other regal society drinks."

Even better than the design of the menu is what's actually on it: a whole bunch of whiskey. In addition to about 50 varieties of whiskey, bourbon and scotch, Braddock's Street Side offers "whiskey flights" -- sample sizes of three different whiskeys each ranging from $9 to $27.

Munch was particularly tickled by some of the "Rebellion Cocktails" on the menu, such as Braddock's Smash with bourbon and fresh seasonal berries ($10) and Jefferson's Thirst (Pimm's No. 1, Jim Bean Rye, ginger beer, lemon cucumber, $10).

But this being a workday lunch and Munch being an unfortunately responsible journalist, Munch went whiskey-less. But wait, you say, aren't all journalists drunks anyway? Nah, that was the old days ... back when editors punched reporters in the middle of the newsroom.

Munch brought Foodie Friend of Munch and Small in Stature But Not Appetite Friend along for the non-liquid lunch. The three were the only diners in the small space, which opened last month.

FFOM saw a Nicoise salad on the menu ($15) and nearly leapt with joy. Turns out that particular salad, with tuna, anchovies, tomato and green beans is a particular passion of hers, and FFOM was positively thrilled with Braddock's Street Side version, pronouncing it the best in town.

Most of the lunch items are substantially cheaper than the Nicoise. Both being rather hungry, Munch and SISBNAF ordered sandwiches -- Munch trying the Fried Zucchini and Eggplant ($8) and SISBNAF ordering the Croque Madame (sourdough, prosciutto, Islay's chipped ham, egg, fontina, $9).

SISBNAF couldn't be happier. Not only was the dressing on her side salad particularly tangy and delicious, not only was the prosciutto so good that she picked pieces off the sandwich to savor them individually, but the portion was enormous. SISBNAF could only eat half of the sandwich and took the other half home for dinner.

Munch, meanwhile, was somewhat puzzled by the fried zucchini and eggplant sandwich. Individually, the components tasted delicious: perfectly breaded and lightly fried veggies, springy bread, tart cheese. But something was off. It reminded Munch of the time that Munch tried a Primanti Brothers sandwich without the coleslaw, and needed to drink nearly an inflatable swimming pool's worth of water to wash it down.

It wasn't until later that Munch realized that the sandwich was missing the marinara sauce listed on the menu, explaining the dryness. But everything else went so well that Munch is perfectly willing to give the place a break and try it again. At night. With bourbon and berries.

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