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The peppers are hot, but the frost is coming
Miriam's Garden
Thursday, October 15, 2009

Deer have been jumping over fences and smashing against gates to break into the garden. Rhubarb chard is one munching target. I don't much care about that; I planted it for color and pizzazz. Not that I don't like chard, but I like other things better.

Such as lettuce and radishes and crisp, white Hakurei turnips and the thin, green blades that may someday become leeks. The garden is full of green and healthy stuff, brightened with zinnias, cosmos and red hummingbird sage. We've protected these by covering each row with coated green wire. The bunny or groundhog can nibble about but we're safe for a bit.

This cheers me after the tomato blight. We pulled them up and planted a buckwheat cover crop to add organic matter to our clay soil.

Eventually we will have a frost. Or the deer will end their obsession with the Jerusalem artichoke tubers, which they kick out of the ground with their hooves. Then they'll start kicking up the beets, carrots, turnips and whatever. That will end the season.

Deer also have been busy with our hostas. "Hosta-pasta," my husband said, amusingly. Not so funny is what they're trying to do to my hydrangeas. Hosta-pasta -- OK because they grow back. But not the hydrangeas! They were chewed on last year and the oakleaf hydrangea only had one bloom.

Early last week, as the weather cooled, I picked the spicy serrano chilies growing in my herb bed. I also received a whole plant of little red and green chilies from my friend Dave Huntley. The plant is drying upside down in the basement. I'd been eyeing this plant all season; Dave grew an impressive row of peppers, much nicer than ours. I had pepper envy.

When growing peppers, a cardinal rule is to plant sweet and hot ones well away from each other lest they cross-pollinate, making the sweet ones hot, and a surprise. Dave Huntley made this error, planting long, thick-walled, sweet Italian roasters beside fiery habaneros and next to (my) little chilies. So the sweet ones were spicy -- and terrific when grilled.

The fault may not have been all Dave's. We purchase plants at the same nursery and one of my sweet peppers also is hot. Must have been a mix-up with the seed.

One of the many wonderful things about hot peppers is that bugs don't generally bother them and after one bite, no longer do the deer. Except for that year when they ate all our jalapenos.

Today, as I write, bright sun piques the colors in the Greene County hills. Soft breezes twirl the creaky whirli-gigs in the garden. I have hope that the growing season will continue.

Continuation only means change. More rain would be good as we've been so dry. So that's what I'll hope for. Rain and a little warmth before it's all over.

Thank you for your readership this season and for all the wonderful comments. Especially the sympathy notes on my tomatoes and offers of rhubarb to plant. I hope to grow again next year and I hope that you will, too.


Grilled Hot Peppers and Small Tomatoes

PG tested

I made this dish with my friend Dave Huntley's peppers, the ones that should have been sweet. They were mildly hot, though the heat varied. Wear gloves when working with hot peppers and take care not to touch your face. You can also use sweet frying peppers, such as Cubanelle or bell peppers or hot Hungarian peppers. Thicker peppers grill the best.

  • 4 to 6 long, thick-walled, slightly hot peppers or 2 bell peppers (about 1 pound)
  • 12 small tomatoes, such as small plum, Juliet or large cherry tomatoes (large enough to not fall through the grill grates)
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lime or lemon juice
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives or parsley
  • 2 teaspoons chopped fresh marjoram (optional but good)

Heat grill to medium. Halve peppers lengthwise; remove ribs and seeds with teaspoon. Put on rimmed baking sheet. Add tomatoes. Drizzle peppers and tomatoes with 1 tablespoon oil. Sprinkle with oregano and salt and pepper to taste. Toss to coat.

Grill peppers skin side down until starting to blister but not blacken, about 5 minutes. Turn and grill 4 to 5 minutes more, until tender. Transfer to shallow serving dish. Add tomatoes to grill and cook, turning once or twice, 4 to 5 minutes, until skins start to blister and tomatoes soften. Add to platter with peppers.

In cup, mix remaining 2 tablespoons oil, lime or lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Pour over vegetables. Sprinkle with chives or parsley and marjoram, if using. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Makes 4 servings.

-- Miriam Rubin


Mortar-Crushed Tomato Salsa

PG tested

From "Antojitos," a new book from New York City's La Palapa Mexican restaurants. One of La Palapa's chef/owners, Barbara Sibley, recently competed on the Food Network's "Chopped" -- which she was, when she used a whole chili as a garnish. But I was rooting for her. Antojitos means small plates. I used jalapenos grown by my neighbor Wendy Saul. Serve the salsa with chips or on grilled steak or a poached egg.

  • 6 plum tomatoes (about 1 1/4 pounds)
  • 3 tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed (I used 5 small)
  • 2 or 3 jalapeno chilies, stemmed
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves (about 1 1/2 bunches)

In medium saucepan, bring 2 cups water to boil over medium-high heat. Add tomatoes, tomatillos, chilies and garlic. Return to simmer and cook, turning vegetables once, 2 to 4 minutes, until tomato skins loosen.

Stir in cumin, salt and pepper. Drain contents into colander over a bowl, reserving liquid. Cool briefly.

Peel and cut up tomatoes. Cut up tomatillos; coarsely chop chilies and garlic. For less heat, remove seeds and ribs from chilies.

In batches, mash tomatoes, tomatillos, chilies and garlic in mortar with pestle. Add small amounts cooking liquid to keep salsa moist and easy to mash. Stir in cilantro. Or (as I did), process in food processor with cilantro to chunky texture, adding cooking liquid if needed (I didn't). Season with salt. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Makes about 3 cups.

-- Adapted from "Antojitos" by Barbara Sibley and Margaritte Malfy (Ten Speed, $22.99).


New Potatoes Roasted with Poblano Chilies

PG tested

Another recipe from "Antojitos." The poblano chilies came from my good friend Mary Martin. Spotting her at a party, I mentioned I needed some. She said to drive to her house and look in a basket on the back porch. Serendipity. Her chilies were shiny green and very mild; they can vary in heat. Thanks, Mary.

  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 1/2 pounds small new potatoes
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 1 large onion, cut into 1/2-inch slices
  • 3 poblano chilies, seeded, cut lengthwise in 1/2-inch strips, strips cut in half

In large, covered saucepan, bring 4 cups water to boil over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon salt and potatoes. Return to boil and reduce heat to medium. Cook, partially covered, 15 to 20 minutes until fork-tender. Drain.

In large heavy skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion and cook about 5 minutes, stirring often, until tender. With slotted spoon, transfer to large bowl. Add chilies to skillet. Cook, stirring often until tender, about 5 minutes. Add to onion.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Cut potatoes in half; add to onions and chilies. Season with salt and pepper and toss gently. (Can be made ahead to this point.) Transfer to roasting pan, about 12-by-9 inches; spread in single layer. Roast 15 to 20 minutes, until hot and edges are crisp.

Makes 6 servings.

-- Adapted from "Antojitos" by Barbara Sibley and Margaritte Malfy (Ten Speed, $22.99).

Miriam Rubin, a cookbook author and food writer, tends her garden in Greene County. E-mail her at mmmrubin@gmail.com.
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First published on October 15, 2009 at 12:00 am
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