Ah, college.

It doesn't seem like that long ago that Munch roamed the verdant lawns of State U, spending nights devouring copious food and drink and days recovering from it. Things have changed now, as Munch has secured a real job and apartment and only goes out three to four nights a week.

One constant feature of those carefree university days was the low level of sophistication of most of Munch's hangouts. Specials on burgers, pizza and Miller Lite are most often found in places that resemble caves.

Which is why Munch was taken aback on a recent visit to the Red Ring, located in the Power Center on Duquesne's campus in Uptown. The Red Ring is named for Duquesne's class ring, which, according to the menu, "is rich in tradition, highly recognizable and infused with a history and meaning."

The Red Ring is at 1015 Forbes Ave.. Call 412-396-3550.

The Red Ring is a recent addition to this tradition, opening in January 2008, and it has a decidedly modern and trendy take on the college eating and drinking establishment. It has the standard sports memorabilia on the walls, but it features a spacious floor plan, wide-ranging menu and the serving dishes, well, we'll get to them in a minute.

Joining Munch on this upscale college-themed luncheon were Newly Goateed Friend of Munch (NGFOM), perhaps employing the facial hair to resemble a college hipster; Tardy Friend of Munch (TFOM), who made her typical late appearance; and Oakland Friend of Munch (OFOM), who has studied Pittsburgh collegians by living in their midst.

We began with the "Dukes" Sampler ($12.95) of three appetizers, predetermined by the chef. On this day, we were in deep-fried heaven: mozzarella sticks, onion rings and fried cauliflower.

They were all fried, but in different manners -- the cauliflower heavily breaded, the onion rings just battered and the mozzarella sticks in between. Munch noted that the sticks were enjoyable because they were not overly stringy -- the kind that you bite into and stretch out for several feet before the cheese snaps.

The highlight was the fried cauliflower, a dish Munch experienced for the first time.

"Cauliflower has no flavor," NGFOM remarked. "So you're just eating fried."

Fine by Munch.

The sampler came with marinara sauce on the side, served in oddly tilted tiny bowls, which allowed easier access to the sauce, but made the sauce more likely to spill onto the table.

"It's disorienting," TFOM said. "I'm a little dizzy."

For the main courses, our group went a little more artery-friendly, although the results were mixed.

NGFOM reported that his California Turkey Wrap ($7.95), which featured hummus, red peppers and asparagus, would have been better if he had not ordered it hot -- as Red Ring gives a temperature option on their wraps.

TFOM's veggie pita ($7.95) -- similar to the California wrap but meatless and with grilled veggies and cucumbers added -- was a success because of above-average hummus.

OFOM was less impressed with her "El Presidente" ($9.95), which consisted of an enormous mound of tuna on a roll, with lettuce, tomatoes, hardboiled egg slices, cucumbers and a side of Old Bay-seasoned mayonnaise. OFOM said the roll was stale and it was tough to assemble all the ingredients, but the dish was redeemed somewhat by the Old Bay mayo. Munch -- always a multi-plate sampler, even when not invited to do so -- confirmed that the mayo was tangy with just the right amount of heat.

Munch's meal selection, the Thai Chicken Peanut Wrap ($7.95), was highlighted by a spicy-sweet peanut chile sauce that Munch would have liked to bottle.

The meals were all served with thick, crunchy homemade chips that were lightly seasoned with ranch powder -- earning a thumbs-up from our table, as we concluded that ranch goes well with anything.

And the dishes were all served in those wacky tilted bowls, which must be something Munch is just too old to get. These Duquesne kids today, with their vegetable-infused meals and hangouts filled with natural light (and I don't mean the beer), what is the world coming to?

Perhaps it's time for Munch to consider grad school -- if only for the fried cauliflower.