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Bubble tea is a sweet Asian treat that eyeballs you back
Thursday, July 09, 2009

Black gummy bits, like tiny eyeballs, bobbed around in my drink, suspended in a turbid liquid.

But I did not demand to speak to the manager of the establishment, because with bubble tea, also known as boba, the odd look is part of the package.

The floater-filled drink, which comes in radioactive hues from purple to green to orange and is filled with "bubbles" of cooked tapioca pearls, doesn't exactly look appetizing.

Presented as it is in a clear cup and with a fat straw for slurping up the tapioca, a better description for it might be alienesque.

But one sip -- sweet, smooth, mild, and, well, chewy -- will likely dispel any doubts about the beverage's drinkability.

What is it?

Bubble tea, as might be expected, began as a beverage based on tea. But today, the drink is now more commonly known for its fruity or even flowery incarnations. Served hot or cold, common flavors include mango, lychee, and strawberry, but even sesame, taro, and lavender variants can be found.

The characteristic pea-sized tapioca also varies. Though black tapioca pearls -- those eyeball-like elements -- made from the root of the cassava plant are ubiquitous, clear and white tapioca pearls (some made from caramel, starch and chamomile root) also are used.

With a chewy texture akin to a cross between a gummy bear and mochi rice dough, the pearls lend an edible element to the drink. They're also the aspect of bubble tea that's most likely to provoke queasiness, but for those who love them, the "bubbles" are the best part.

Bubble tea and me

My first encounter with bubble tea occurred in Beijing, relatively close to the beverage's Taiwanese birthplace. In a greasy shopping center food court, I was fascinated, if not a tad repulsed, by the drink the server had just plopped in front of me. It was available in only one flavor -- black tea, which, when combined with milk, produced a murky tan liquid.

Puncturing the plastic film cover with the extra-wide straw, I stirred the tapioca pearls that had settled to the bottom and took my first tentative sip.

It was sweet, cold, and complex. Not bad. Smooth, punctuated with marbles of chewiness. Not bad at all. Creamy and mellow, with just a hint of the dark bitterness of tea. Wow, was this good.

Before I knew it, sips became gulps. One bubble tea turned into a drink with every meal. And soon, my fondness for the beverage turned into a full-blown addiction.

Five years later as a self-proclaimed bubble tea connoisseur, I still am nursing this addiction. I've tried everything from blueberry to almond to unintentionally soap-flavored homemade tea in multiple cities and continents, but it's never enough.

My thirst for bubble tea remains unquenched. I think I'm parched for life.

History

Though bubble tea is now known for its tapioca pearls, the drink actually got its name in a different manner.

Bubble tea is reported to have originated in Taiwan in the 1980s, when tea stands competing for after-school business among students began adding fruit flavors to their drinks. The tea and the flavoring had to be shaken vigorously for an even consistency, which resulted in frothy bubbles in the beverage.

Liu Han Chie, who owned Chun Shui Tang teahouse in Taichung, Taiwan, claims that he was the first to add tapioca to the tea in 1983, and the idea quickly caught on. But no matter who the inventor of bubble tea was, tapioca pearls have been an inseparable element ever since.

The popular drink soon spread to other Asian countries before traveling to North America via the Asian community in Vancouver, then popped up in trendy cities on the West Coast. Now, bubble tea can be found across the country. Luckily, no lengthy pilgrimage is needed to get your hands on one of these drinks, as many Pittsburgh establishments feature bubble tea on their menus.

Where to get it

Clustered around the college campuses in Oakland, bubble tea is a staple on many menus at Asian and fusion-cuisine restaurants.

Green Mango, a Thai restaurant with locations in Regent Square and Wilkins, makes its bubble tea with fresh fruit, nondairy creamer and nonfat yogurt, said owner Mark Robinson. The establishment features classic flavors such as mango, taro and avocado, and more unusual varieties such coconut with Siam ruby and pandan leaf.

"We sell a lot, especially in the summertime," said Mr. Robinson. "We get everyone from age 6 to 86."

He began selling bubble tea in 1997 when he operated a concession stand outside Hillman Library in Oakland. At that time, he was the only bubble tea vendor in the city, but the drink's popularity has since swelled, as demonstrated by the crop of restaurants that now offer the drink.

At Lu Lu's Noodles on Craig Street in Oakland, flavored syrups are used to make bubble tea, which comes in more than a dozen flavors, from classic black tea to rose. The sweetness of the fruity drinks -- especially mango -- pairs beautifully with the saltiness of the noodles.

There's also Rose Tea Cafe in Squirrel Hill, which, as a Taiwanese restaurant, fittingly offers bubble tea in a wide range of flavors.

The drink menu is almost overwhelming, with 20 flavors of infused teas from plum to yogurt, nine milk teas, and a range of smoothies and milkshakes to which you can add tapioca or jelly for an extra50 cents.

Wei-Li Cheng, a sophomore at Carnegie Mellon University, said that she goes to Rose Tea Cafe every week for a black tea or yogurt green tea bubble drink. "It's really authentic and the closest I've had to actual Taiwanese bubble tea in the U.S."

Other places around Pittsburgh for boba include Beehive Coffeehouse in the South Side, Bubble Phi in Squirrel Hill, and Orient Express, Taiwan Cafe, and Saigon Tokyo, all in Oakland.

For a quick drink, there's also Asian Tea House, a dining kiosk at Schenley Plaza, which offers bubble drinks made with fresh fruit.

Bubble Tea

PG tested

The versatility of the drink makes it a perfect treat to prepare at home. Don't like using a tea base? Try fruit juice, fruit puree or coffee. Don't want your drink to be chewy? Skip the tapioca. Want a thicker consistency? Blend the drink with ice, frozen fruit, or creamer. Here's a basic bubble tea that you can play with to make your own creation.

-- Liyun Jin

  • 1/2 cup dried pearl tapioca
  • 1 cup crushed ice
  • 1 cup very strong chilled black tea
  • 1 cup milk, or to taste
  • Sugar to taste

In a medium saucepan, bring water to a boil over high heat, then add tapioca pearls. Stir lightly and let the pearls float to top. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes, covered. Turn off the heat and let the tapioca sit for 15 minutes, then rinse under cold water.

Mix the ice, tea, milk and sugar in a shaker, until the liquid is frothy and blended. Place about 1/4 cup tapioca mixture in bottom of large glass, and pour the drink over it.

Makes a 16-ounce drink.

-- whatscookingamerica.net

Liyun Jin can be reached at ljin@post-gazette.com or 412-263-1410.
First published on July 9, 2009 at 12:00 am