Lentils are Mother Earth's gift to soup makers. They have a rich, earthy flavor; the common brown varieties are the color of the ground they grow in; and they're dirt cheap like other dried legumes such as navy beans and split peas.

Lens culinaris are small lens-shaped seeds, the edibles ones classified as pulses. They come in several colors, in the pecking order of tiny, black-green French lentilles de Puy on top, descending through iridescent browns to brilliant reds, oranges and yellows. The bright ones usually have their seed coats removed. These fall apart when cooked and often are pureed in soups and Indian dals.

Edward Espe Brown rhapsodizes in "Tassajara Cooking," "Uncooked lentils, a rainbow of browns, turn with cooking into one, deep mellow brown, the taste of earthen sunshine."

Lentils are rich in protein and carbohydrates, as well as flavor. They do not need to be soaked but should be sifted through to catch stray stones, clumps of earth and husks. Rinse in cold water before cooking in barely simmering water or broth. Recommended proportions are at least two cups of liquid for each cup of lentils; add liquid if needed to keep the seeds covered. Cooking takes 20 to 40 minutes for French lentils; colorful ones are done even quicker; brown kinds can take an hour or so. Wait until lentils are tender before adding salt, which can toughen the skins. If you are making salad instead of soup, a splash of vinegar at the very end of cooking keeps them from getting mushy.

Brown lentils usually are sold in 1-pound bags, occasionally in bulk, at groceries; specialty stores provide French lentils, sometimes in boxes; the colorful ones are found in Indian and Middle Eastern grocery stores. The Uncommon Market in Bethel Park carries several varieties.

If you like to know where your food is grown, shop online at purcellmountainfarms.com, in northeastern Idaho, where the lentils are not dirt cheap but superior in quality. Here, you have the choice of 13 varieties, including Spanish pardina and petite castillo, two fine brown lentils. The soups in this story were tested with grocery store lentils, but I don't doubt that they would have been even better with Purcell products.

Lentil Soup With Swiss Chard

PG tested

This soup is so substantial and meaty tasting, only the cook knows that it's made with plain water. It is an adaptation of Claudia Roden's recipe for Lentil Soup with Spinach.

• 1 pound lentils, picked over and washed
• 10 cups boiling water
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 2 medium onions, chopped
• 2 ribs celery, chopped
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 2 carrots, scraped and chopped
• 1 large tomato, peeled, seeded, chopped
• 1 pound Swiss chard, leaves separated from stems
• 6 or 7 basil leaves, minced
• Kosher salt
• Freshly ground black
• pepper
• Freshly grated Pecorino cheese

Sprinkle lentils into boiling water, cover the pot and simmer for 45 minutes. Set aside in liquid.

Heat oil in a large skillet, and saute onion, celery, garlic and carrot until soft, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add tomato (you can substitute one-half cup of canned tomato here) and simmer another 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, clean chard carefully in several changes of water. Dice stems into 3/4-inch chunks. Cut leaves into pieces about 1-by-3 inches. Add chard to skillet with vegetables and stir to wilt leaves.

Stir vegetables into lentils. Add basil (about a tablespoon of frozen pesto is a likely substitute), salt, pepper. Mix well. Simmer, covered, for 45 minutes or until lentils are soft.

Serve very hot, sprinkled with cheese.

Serves 8 to 10.

-- Adapted

from Claudia Roden

Lentil Soup with Lamb Chops

PG tested

Lydie Marshall in Food & Wine magazine presents this version of a traditional German soup. Olive oil is substituted for the original recipe's lard, and red bell peppers take the place of some of the potatoes. In a further variation, my friend Diana Bowden uses pork instead of lamb and reports that her soup is delicious. Like many soups, the flavor improves over time, so take the author's advice, make it three days ahead and store in the refrigerator.

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 1/2 pounds shoulder lamb chops
• 1 pound russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
• 2 red bell peppers, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 2 carrots, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 1 large onion, coarsely chopped
• 1 celery rib, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 28-ounce can Italian tomatoes, crushed, with their liquid
• 1 pound brown lentils, rinsed
• 10 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth
• 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley leaves only, chopped
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat oil in a large enameled cast-iron casserole. Brown chops over moderately high heat, about 4 minutes per side. Remove chops.

Add potatoes, garlic, peppers, carrots, onion and celery, and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add chops, tomatoes, lentils, stock and parsley, and bring to the boil. Add 1 tablespoon salt and a few grinds of pepper.

Cover and simmer until lentils are tender, 50 minutes to 1 hour.

Remove chops, debone, cut meat into large pieces, return to soup. Check seasoning. Serve hot.

Makes 4 quarts to feed a crowd.

-- Food & Wine magazine