Jill Lambert's book doesn't go into other seafood issues, such as how healthy or not different seafood is ("I was worried about the health of the fish," she says with a laugh).

She has an interesting personal take on the increasingly high cost, even in Vancouver, of quality, sustainable, fresh fish: She pays top dollar, even if it means cutting back on dinner another night of the week, and figures that she should.

"It's wild food," she says. "How much wild food do most people eat anymore? It's very special."

-- Bob Batz Jr.