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Home cooking: Pat and Gina Neely share a taste of Southern cooking
Thursday, May 28, 2009

Patrick and Gina Neely claim that they don't "feel famous," in response to my question. On a monthlong (or so) book tour promoting their new cookbook, "Down Home with the Neelys," they're appearing on national and local morning shows, plus doing their second Food Network venture, "Road Tasted with the Neelys."

Their book, a collection of personal favorites, Southern classics, barbecuing tips and family tales ("We have a story to tell!" he said) was the reason they were in Washington, D.C. And a little weary during our Saturday morning interview. Another interview was scheduled directly after mine. At 2 p.m. they would board a plane for Los Angeles.

"We just feel busy, like there are extra things we have to do," she said.

"We're just Pat and Gina," he said. "We can't wrap our heads around this celebrity stuff."

Weary or not, they seem to be enjoying the attention and love meeting their fans, who at the book signings give them hugs -- and pigs.

"Doing a show that's on seven days a week, people remember so many things about you," Pat said. "It's such a high. People feel we are an everyday couple. They can touch us and all."

"Live pigs?" I wondered.

Gina explained that she has a pig collection and recounted getting a stuffed pig and a pig-shaped bar of soap from fans. As she wrote in a recipe introduction: "Pat and I will find a way to incorporate pork into just about anything."

It's fitting because in Memphis, pork barbecue is king. Pork shoulders and ribs, cooked low and slow, are the stars in the Neelys' three barbecue restaurants (two in Memphis and one in Nashville, Tenn.) The hottest-selling item is the pulled pork sandwich: pork shoulder that's slow-cooked and "shredded by hand into moist, succulent threads doused in a tangy sauce," then piled onto a soft bun with a layer of spicy coleslaw.

"Memphis is considered the capitol of the barbecue world," said Pat. "It sits in the middle of the barbecue region, with Kansas City to the west and South Carolina to the east. We pull from all of these techniques. It's a barbecue blend. Here, we don't baste ribs with liquids or barbecue sauce. We cook over charcoal and hickory. The sauce should complement the meat without overpowering it."

Gina added: "We use a tangy-sweet sauce, and have more smoke [flavor] because of the hickory chips. The meat is more tender."

There's a unique style in Memphis, continued Pat. You can order your ribs wet (brushed with sauce), dry (sprinkled with dry rub) or half-and-half, which is six bones dry and six bones wet. But pulled pork is the big thing. Pat recalls a local bumper sticker that reads, "Honk if you love it pulled."

What came first

The Neely barbecue restaurants came before the television shows, before the cookbook. Before Pat and Gina were married with two daughters. The pair began as high-school sweethearts but after graduation, they went their separate ways and married other people.

Pat played football in high school and college but his college career was cut short by a torn ACL (anterior cruciate ligament in his knee) and the financial woes of his mother. During high school he'd worked at his uncle Jim Neely's barbecue joint, which employed many of his family members.

Were you pitmaster? I asked.

"I was 15 years old," he laughed. "I was broom-master, dishwasher-master." But he watched and learned.

Leaving school was most disappointing, he continued. "But now, as it turned out, it was the best thing."

That best thing was that Pat and his three brothers -- Tony, Galen and Mark -- started their own place. Neely's Bar-B-Que opened in 1988, on February 29, in a leap year. A leap of faith? Certainly by their grandmother, who lent some of the start-up money.

"We fell in love with the chaos and the hard work of the restaurant business," writes Pat. "The smell of hickory wood, charcoal and meat cooking on the grill became a passion, and by the time we were in our twenties, the art of slow-cooking Southern barbecue was in our blood."

The first restaurant became a success and a second was opened. The former sweethearts, Pat and Gina, were reunited just before their 10th high-school reunion. They married in 1994 and have two daughters, Spenser, 20, from Gina's previous marriage, and Shelbi, 14.

Pat credits Gina with expanding the business with new recipes, catering and a Web site. In 1997, a contest held by a local television station crowned their ribs the best in Memphis.

Their business employs much of their extended family. Pat's mother, Mama Neely, is 74 yet she still prepares and oversees the desserts for the restaurants.

Her specialty is the Sock-it-to-Me Cake, a butter cake base with a pecan streusel and a sugar glaze.

On television, the Neelys' style is easy, joking with a little sexiness thrown in.

"We work in the kitchen like clockwork," Pat said. "She'll be doing noodles, cutting vegetables. I'm at the grill. I do the meat, you better know it, baby," he teases.

His grill isn't the propane type either. "That's the girl grill," chimed Gina. "When you want to get dinner done fast."

"I use a propane grill for fish, corn or asparagus," said Pat. "But for true smoky flavor, I get out the big black box with the firebox on the side. A smoker will complement the meat and the sauce with the smoke flavor."

This illustrates the main difference between barbecuing and grilling. Barbecuing is done low and slow, over indirect heat. Grilling is faster and uses direct heat.

The Neelys' book is slick, almost too snazzy, yet it invites you in, with posed pictures interspersed with family photos on nearly every page.

The recipes I tested worked perfectly. My tasters (the neighbors) loved the barbecued chicken, sauce and coleslaw.

The book is well written and entertaining with bulleted quotes from both spouses.

A how-to barbecue section is presented by brother Tony Neely. He also appears on the show and develops most of their signature dishes and tastes.

He calls himself "the barbecue angel on your shoulder," walking you through meat, smoker and wood-chip choices.

While the Neelys aren't household names everywhere, they're known to many with an interest in Southern food.

Charleston, S.C.'s, Nathalie Dupree, author of "Shrimp & Grits" and nine other cookbooks (Nathalie.com), said, "There's only one thing worse than not being able to smell barbecue over the TV. That's being in line at one of their restaurants, smelling the barbecue, and not being able to get in."

At press time there were no plans for the Neelys to come to Pittsburgh. But they're willing. They attended the Super Bowl and watched the Steelers take the game.

And Pat had a message for Big Ben (who has his own line of BBQ sauce):

"Tell Ben the Neelys say hi. And if he needs a little fattening up, we can take care of that."

Because, as Pat says, "We'll barbecue anything."

Even spaghetti.

Barbecued Chicken

PG tested

This was absolutely wonderful and you'll want to make it again and again. Pat says in a pinch you can use a cup of prepared Italian dressing.

-- Miriam Rubin

  • 2 3- to 4-pound chickens, halved lengthwise, giblets removed (see note below), or 4 whole bone-in chicken breasts or 10 bone-in thighs or legs, rinsed and patted dry
  • 1 cup Zesty Italian Dressing (recipe below)
  • 2 tablespoons Neely's Barbecue Seasoning (recipe below)
  • 1 cup Neely's Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows), plus more for serving


Put chicken in large bowl or baking dish, coat with dressing and dust with Barbecue Seasoning. Marinate in the refrigerator at least 2 hours or overnight.

Heat barbecue grill to 250 degrees (Pat uses hickory and charcoal on his grill. I used a gas grill and turned off the outer 2 burners to grill over indirect heat, cooking the chicken on the turned-off grids. I moved them a few times as they cooked, and the grill stayed about 300 degrees. It worked fine but a smoky flavor with charcoal and soaked wood chunks or chips would have been even better.)

Place chicken halves on the grill, cavity-side up. Cover and grill about 50 minutes. Turn chicken. Cook until golden brown, and wing and drumstick are tender and pull easily at the bone, 15 to 20 more minutes. Brush chicken with barbecue sauce during last 5 minutes of cooking. Carve into pieces and serve with additional sauce.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Note: Remove wing tips from chickens. Use poultry shears to cut along one side of the chicken's backbone. Open the chicken up, and cut between the breast halves, pulling out the keel bone in the center of the breast.

-- Adapted from "Down Home with the Neelys," by Patrick and Gina Neely with Paula Disbrowe

Spice Mix and Zesty Italian Dressing

PG tested

For the Spice Mix

  • 2 tablespoons dried oregano
  • 2 tablespoons Cajun seasoning
  • 1 tablespoon garlic salt (I used garlic power and 2 teaspoons kosher salt)
  • 1 tablespoon onion powder
  • 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon dried thyme
  • 1 teaspoon dried basil
  • 1 tablespoon dried parsley
  • 1/4 teaspoon celery salt


For the Zesty Italian Dressing

  • 2/3 cup olive oil
  • 1/4 cup white wine vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons water
  • 2 tablespoons Spice Mix (see above)


In small bowl, whisk all Spice Mix ingredients. Transfer to jar, seal and use as needed (makes 1/2 cup).

For dressing: In medium bowl, whisk oil, vinegar, water and 2 tablespoons Spice Mix.

Makes 1 cup, enough for 1 recipe Barbecued Chicken

-- Adapted from "Down Home with the Neelys," by Patrick and Gina Neely with Paula Disbrowe

Sweet and Spicy Slaw

PG tested

According to Pat Neely, "in Memphis, if you run a barbecue joint, you better have coleslaw on your menu and it better be good. A big key [in this slaw] is using two types of pepper, black and cayenne, which work together as well as Tony and I do. Then came sugar, as sweet as my Gina."

  • 1 small head green cabbage
  • 1 small head red cabbage
  • 4 carrots, peeled
  • 1 medium yellow onion, peeled
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 1/2 cup mayonnaise
  • 1/4 cup prepared yellow mustard
  • 2 teaspoons cider vinegar
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper (try 1/4 teaspoon first)
  • Kosher salt


Cut cabbages into quarters and cut out cores. Cut cabbage, carrots and onion into pieces that will fit through a food processor feed tube. Fit processor with grater attachment. Push cabbage, carrots and onion through feed tube. Transfer to large bowl and toss to combine.

In medium bowl, whisk sugar, mayonnaise, mustard, vinegar, black and cayenne peppers until sugar dissolves. Toss dressing with coleslaw, season with salt and additional pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours to blend flavors.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

-- Adapted from "Down Home with the Neelys" by Patrick and Gina Neely with Paula Disbrowe (Knopf, 2009, $27.95)

Neelys' Barbecue Sauce

PG tested

Memphis-style barbecue sauce is sweet with a little tang. It uses a tomato base.

  • 2 cups ketchup
  • 1 cup water
  • 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
  • 1/4 cup packed light brown sugar
  • 1/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
  • 2 tablespoons light corn syrup
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons onion powder
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons dry mustard
  • 1 tablespoon Neelys' Barbecue Seasoning (recipe below)


Combine ingredients in large heavy saucepan or Dutch oven. Bring to boil over high heat, stirring frequently to prevent sticking. Reduce heat to very low and simmer, uncovered, at least 2 hours, stirring occasionally. Cool and store in the fridge.

Makes about 2 1/2 cups.

-- Adapted from "Down Home with the Neelys," by Patrick and Gina Neely with Paula Disbrowe (Knopf, 2009, $27.95)

Neelys' Barbecue Seasoning

PG tested

I halved this recipe. This is the dry rub the Neelys use in their restaurants on meat and poultry and in their barbecue sauce. For best results, says the book: "Marinate spice-rubbed meats overnight in the refrigerator so they can absorb and 'breathe in' the flavors." -- Miriam Rubin

  • 3/4 cup paprika
  • 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
  • 1 heaping tablespoon onion powder


Stir together ingredients in small bowl. Store in airtight container in cool, dry place for up to six months.

Makes a heaping cupful.

-- Adapted from "Down Home with the Neelys," by Patrick and Gina Neely with Paula Disbrowe (Knopf, 2009, $27.95)

Momma Daisy's Banana Pudding

PG tested

For this Southern classic, "Once you prepare the pudding, it can be layered with the other ingredients and chilled for up to 4 hours in advance," write Patrick and Gina Neely. "Then all you need to do is garnish it with the whipped cream and crumbled wafers just before serving." It's actually vanilla pudding with bananas, and really good. -- Bob Batz Jr.

  • 2 12-ounce cans evaporated milk
  • 2 1/2 cups granulated sugar
  • 6 tablespoons flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 4 egg yolks
  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed
  • 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
  • 14-ounce box vanilla
  • wafers
  • 5 large, ripe bananas, sliced
  • 1 recipe whipped cream (see below)


Combine the evaporated milk, sugar, flour and salt in a 3-quart saucepan. Heat over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes.

Lightly beat the egg yolks. Add a ladleful of the milk mixture to the eggs, and whisk together to temper the eggs. Place the tempered egg mixture in the saucepan, and continue to whisk and cook until incorporated, 2 to 3 minutes.

Remove the saucepan from the heat, and stir in the butter and the vanilla. Transfer the pudding to a bowl and cover with plastic wrap (laying the wrap directly on the surface of the pudding so a skin doesn't form); cool in the refrigerator for 2 hours.

Place 1 1/2 cups of vanilla wafers in a Ziploc bag, seal and use a rolling pin to crumble them into coarse pieces. Place layers of sliced bananas in the bottom of a large glass trifle dish. Top with a layer of vanilla wafers and half of the vanilla pudding; repeat with another layer of bananas, wafers and the remaining pudding, then top with whipped cream and garnish with the crumbled wafers.

Serves 6 to 8.

  • For the whipped cream
  • 2 cups heavy cream
  • 1/2 cup confectioners' sugar
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract


Beat the cream in a bowl with an electric mixer at medium speed until it becomes frothy. Add the sugar and vanilla; continue beating until the cream holds soft peaks. Do not overbeat. Refrigerate the cream, covered with plastic wrap, for no more than 1 hour if not using immediately.

-- "Down Home with the Neelys: A Southern Family Cookbook" by Patrick and Gina Neely with Paula Disbrowe (Knopf, 2009, $27.95)

Pucker-up Lemon-Limeade

According to the Neelys, "This strong, tart-sweet drink -- made with equal parts fresh lemon and lime juice -- can stand up to plenty of ice, and the addition of the chopped crystallized ginger gives each sip a tingly, refreshing heat."

  • 1 1/2 cups fresh-squeezed lemon juice (from about 10 lemons)
  • 1 1/2 cups fresh-squeezed lime juice (from about 15 limes)
  • 1 cup superfine sugar
  • 1/2 cup honey
  • 3 tablespoons finely chopped crystallized ginger
  • 4 cups cold water
  • Crushed ice
  • 1 lemon, thinly sliced, for garnish
  • 1 lime, thinly sliced, for garnish

Combine the lemon and lime juices, sugar, honey and crystallized ginger in a large glass pitcher, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add the cold water and stir again until well combined. Add enough crushed ice to fill the pitcher. Add lemon and lime slices, stir to combine, and serve in tall glasses.

Makes 10 cups.

-- "Down Home with the Neelys" by Patrick and Gina Neely with Paula Disbrowe (Knopf, 2009, $27.95)

Miriam Rubin is a Greene County cookbook author, food writer and member of the Southern Foodways Alliance. The first SFA symposium she attended was on barbecue. E-mail her at mmmrubin@gmail.com.
First published on May 28, 2009 at 12:00 am
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