Remember the good old days when cooking out meant throwing a burger or hot dog on a sizzling grill and patting yourself on the back if you didn't catch anything, or anyone, on fire?

Me neither.

In the past few years, grilling has become a favorite American pastime, sending grill sales through the roof (some 16.7 million grills and smokers were shipped last year, according to the Hearth, Patio and Barbecue Association) and in the process spawning an entire industry of grill- and barbecue-related cooking tools, accessories, and, well, gadgets.

Along with infrared technology and LED grill lights, it's now possible to find woks, griddles and mesh trays made especially for the grill at your local hardware or grocery store. One of the most popular buys at In The Kitchen in the Strip is a flexible grill basket ($18.99) that allows cooks to grill thick steaks at the same time as vegetable slices, says store owner KC Lapiana.

Just as hot is a plastic "slider maker" ($14.99) for making and storing appetizer-sized burgers, and "Smoke in a Cup" ($2.99), disposable, wood chip-filled aluminum cups that you place on the rack in your grill to infuse food with the aroma of apple, hickory, cherry or mesquite.

For more adventurous chefs, Sur la Table sells a stainless-steel rack for roasting chili peppers upright over flames, while this year for Father's Day Williams-Sonoma is hawking a monogrammed steak brand for grillmeister dads. (Some things never change: men still cook more on the grill than women, though we girls are starting to catch up.) The Fiesta Blue Ember iQue grill offers a touch-screen display and controls and uses sonar to gauge the amount of propane in the tank.

Then there are the cookbooks. Lots and lots of cookbooks. This spring alone brought more than 20 new titles devoted to grilling on gas or coals (fast, over high direct heat) and its lazy-sister method of cooking, barbecuing (slow, over indirect or low heat). Some come courtesy of celebrity chefs such as Emeril "Bam!" Lagasse and Adam Perry Lang, proprietor of Daisy May's BBQ USA in New York City. Others have more humble roots, having been cooked up by "regular" guys such as humorist/mystery writer Bob Sloan, author of the witty and informative "Dad's Awesome Grilling Book" (Chronicle, $22.95).

It's enough to drive your average cook crazy with too many choices ... but at the same time inspire her (or him) to stretch, if just a little. Because here's the thing, fellow grillers: while hamburgers, followed by steak and chicken, remain American grill owners' top pick according to the 20th annual Weber GrillWatch survey, we're increasingly using our gas and charcoal grills in ways we never could have imagined even 10 years ago.

Nothing beats a juicy strip steak hot off the grate or a piece of sticky-sweet barbecued chicken -- unless you've enjoyed sea bass grilled on a fragrant cedar plank or chased away the munchies with a grilled pizza.

"People's grilling skills have improved to a level where they want more than just hamburgers," says chef and cookbook author Rick Rodgers, who contributed several recipes to Weber's beautifully illustrated and comprehensive "Way to Grill" by Jamie Purviance (Sunset, $24.95). "They aren't afraid anymore."

Some of the newer techniques include grilling with brick weights, fire roasting and grilling directly on the coals, a technique Dwight D. Eisenhower is said to have favored.

We're also wrapping meat in banana and grape leaves, grilling vertically, and plank-cooking dishes as varied as meatloaf with sweet potato icing, rigatoni and chocolate chip cookies.

And you thought your oven was versatile!

Given that you can buy alder or maple planks at just about any drugstore, and mainstream pizza crust makers such as Boboli offer instructions on grilling pizza, both of those "new" methods actually are old news, says Chef Rodgers. Rather, the biggest trend when it comes to grilling -- and one borne out by the latest slew of cookbooks -- is choice of ingredients. No food, be it vegetable, fruit, grain or dairy, is too crazy to cook on the grill.

To wit: Weber's new cookbook is one of several to include a recipe for seafood paella, a rice dish traditionally cooked on the stove; "300 Big & Bold Barbecue & Grilling Recipes" by Karen Adler and Judith Fertig (Robert Rose, $24.95) teaches readers how to prepare clams, oysters and even octopus on the grill, along with avocado (yes, avocado!).

"Wood-Fired Cooking" by Mary Karlin (Ten Speed, $27.95), meanwhile, which takes aspiring chefs on a comprehensive journey of contemporary wood-fired cooking, offers up recipes ranging from savory tarts and galettes to meat-filled flatbread, grilled bread salad, and chocolate cake. "Knack Grilling Basics" by Linda Johnson Larson (Lyons, $19.95) tackles pot roast, meatball lollipops and an unusual grilled cherry-cheese kabob appetizer.

Hungry yet? Me, too.

As a result, many backyard chefs are seeking professional guidance, says Jason Capps, owner/chef of Greco's Gourmet Catering in Canonsburg. For the last 10 years he has offered a grill cooking class prior to the start of the grilling season.

So popular is cooking out that more than half of U.S. grill owners are now grilling at least a few times a week, and almost a third own multiple grills; some are even hard-piping their gas instead of using LP tanks so they never have to worry about running out of fuel. And many are taking classes to learn how to better use their appliances.

Chef Capps' "Grillin' and Swillin' " cooking class last Wednesday drew more than 70 people, up from 15 or 20 the first year it was offered. Many, he says, were interested in learning how to cook an entire meal on the grill. Backyard cooks are also increasingly eager to explore international dishes on the grill, with Asian flavors such as Thai, Vietnamese and Indonesian being particularly hot.

"And we want it as authentic as possible," Chef Rodgers notes. "There's no limit to the ingredients we'll search out or how far we'll go to find a particular fish sauce."

Curry paste, which works as a "wet" rub, also is popular this season, along with an ever-expanding selection of dry rubs -- mixtures of spices, herbs and other seasonings that can quickly give a boost of flavors to foods before grilling. "Way to Grill" includes recipes for more than 20. It has just as many marinade recipes.

Or maybe you'd like to try your hand at a flavored butter, glaze, mop or sauce. It's got those, too.

American regional specialities are another sizzling trend. We're starting to recognize, for instance, the subtle nuances of barbecue -- how different parts of the country prefer different cuts of meat, amounts of smoke, seasonings and finishing sauces.

In the Southeast, for example, vinegar-based barbecue sauces are king; in the Midwest and West, it's tomato-based sauce.

Finally, we're keener than ever on heeding the "buy fresh, buy local" mantra and choosing recipes that embrace the culinary patterns of our region.

Ellen Brown's "Great Year-Round Grilling in the Northeast" (Lyons, $19.95) is an especially good choice for Pennsylvanians in that it celebrates food traditions brought to the 13 colonies. Among the more than 100 mouth-watering dishes: Medallions of Venison with New England Cranberries and Long Island Bluefish with Bacon-Apple Relish.

The end result of all these choices? When your spouse or children tell you they're tired of the same old burgers and chicken, you'll have no excuse for not taking it to the next level.

Just remember not to get so excited about a new recipe that you fail to take your audience's tastes into account, or try too many dishes at once.

Says Chef Rodgers, "You have to pick your poison."

Smoked Salmon-Wrapped Scallops

PG tested

The scallops should be uniform in size and as big as possible.

• 1 regular maple plank, soaked in water
• 1/2 cup ground pistachio nuts
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 green onions, finely chopped
• 1/2 cup diced cucumber
• 2 tablespoons prepared horseradish
• 2 tablespoons honey
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 12 fresh jumbo scallops
• 12 slices store-bought smoked salmon

In a bowl, mix together all ingredients except salt and pepper, scallops and salmon. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Using a paper towel, pat scallops dry and then season with salt and pepper. Wrap a slice of smoked salmon around each scallop and secure with a toothpick. Crust the top side of the scallop generously with the pistachio mixture.

Preheat grill to high heat. Place plank on grill and close lid. Heat the wood for 3 to 5 minutes, until it crackles and smokes. Open the grill and place the scallops, crust side up, on the plank, spaced about 1/2-inch apart. Close lid and bake for 6 to 8 minutes, until scallops are golden brown and the crust crispy.

Serve with chilled shots of Finlandia Vodka.

Makes 4 main servings or 12 appetizers.

-- "Napoleon's Everyday Gourmet Plank Grilling" by Ted Reader (Key Porter, $40)

Grilled Smashed Potatoes

This side dish is a healthier alternative to fries or chips. If you're not a rosemary fan, substitute an herb you love, such as cilantro or basil. -- Gretchen McKay

• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 2 tablespoons minced garlic
• 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
• 2 pounds baby Red Bliss potatoes (no larger than 2 inches each), scrubbed well
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Stir olive oil, garlic and rosemary together in a small bowl and let sit at room temperature for at least 15 minutes for flavors to infuse.

Preheat grill to medium-high.

Place potatoes in a pot of salted water and bring to boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook until potatoes are tender when pierced with the tip of a knife, about 12 minutes. Drain potatoes, discarding the water.

Using a towel wrapped around the palm of your hand, gently smash each potato until the skin breaks, while trying to keep the potato whole, leaving it about 1-inch thick. Transfer the potatoes to a baking sheet. Generously brush both sides of the potatoes with the olive oil mixture and season both sides with salt and pepper.

Place potatoes on the grill and cook until grill marks appear and potatoes are nicely caramelized, 3 to 4 minutes per side.

Serves 4 to 6.

-- "Emeril at the Grill" by Emeril Lagasse (Harper Studio, 2009, $24.99)

Grilled Sliders

PG tested

Appetizer-sized hamburgers -- 2 inches in diameter -- are one of the hottest trends in grilling. They're cooked like traditional burgers, but need to be handled more carefully. If you don't have a special slider set, place the burgers in a grill basket or on a smaller rack over the main rack so they don't fall through.

-- Gretchen McKay

• 1/3 cup minced onions
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 teaspoon onion salt
• 1/8 teaspoon pepper
• 2 tablespoons condensed beef broth
• 1 1/2 pounds 80-percent-lean ground beef
• 12 dinner rolls or mini English muffins
• 12 2-inch slices cheddar or Muenster cheese
• 4 plum tomatoes, sliced
• Ketchup or mustard

In small saucepan, cook onion in butter until very tender, about 6 to 7 minutes. Place onion mixture in large bowl and mix in onion salt, pepper and broth. Add ground beef and mix gently.

Form into 2 1/2-inch-thick small burgers using an ice cream scoop or small cup.

Place in grill basket and cook over medium heat for 4 minutes. Flip basket to indirect heat, open, top burgers with bottom half of rolls and cook for 3 to 5 minutes. Assemble burgers with cheese, tomatoes and condiments.

Makes 12 sliders.

-- "Knack Grilling Basics" by Linda Johnson Larsen (Knack, 2009, $19.95)

Grilled Pizza With Roasted Tomatoes

PG tested

Grilling your pizza adds a nice, smoky flavor. Some cooks like to cook fresh pizza dough on the grill, but my husband and I prefer pre-cooking them in the oven so we don't have to worry about anything sticking to the grill. -- Gretchen McKay

• 3 1/3 cups bread flour
• 1/4 cup wheat flour
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 3 teaspoons active dry yeast
• 1 1/4 cup warm water
• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 pounds Roma tomatoes
• Olive oil
• Oregano
• Course salt and fresh-ground pepper
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• Fresh mozzarella, cut or pulled into bite-sized pieces

Put flour, salt, sugar and yeast in a standing mixer equipped with a bread hook and stir together until well mixed. To that, add warm water and olive oil and mix at low speed for 5 minutes, or until dough just comes together in a smooth ball. You may need to add more water or oil.

Coat dough ball with olive oil and place in a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise 1 1/2 hours, or until dough has doubled in size. Divide into five equal balls. Flatten one ball into a disc, and roll out on a floured surface, with a piece of parchment paper between the dough and roller. Repeat with other balls. Each round should be no more than 1/4 inch thick.

Pre-bake crusts at 550 degrees, or at your oven's highest temperature, for 5 minutes. Allow to cool. Crusts can be refrigerated for up to a day or in the freezer for up to a week.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Wash tomatoes and cut in half horizontally. Place tomato pieces in a large roasting pan and drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with oregano and season with salt and pepper. Place roasting tray in a hot oven and roast for 25 minutes, or until tomatoes have shriveled and edges are light brown.

Remove tomatoes from oven and allow to cool. Process in a food processor until smooth. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add minced garlic and saute for 1 minute. Add tomato puree, and cook for 5 minutes, stirring often. Season with additional salt and pepper, if desired. Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

To make pizzas: Preheat grill to medium-high heat. Top each crust with tomato sauce and small pieces of mozzarella. Place pizza directly on the cooking grate and grill, with lid closed, for about 5 or 6 minutes, or until cheese melts and edges are slightly browned. (Cheese will not brown since there's no upper heat source.) Remove from grill with tongs or fork onto a cutting board or pizza peel. Serve immediately.

Makes 5 10-inch pizzas.

Adapted from "Pizza: And Other Savory Pies," by Brigit Binns (Simon and Shuster, $18.95)

Cherry Barbecue Glaze

PG tested

For a sweet, funky finish on chicken, turkey, pork or game. Brush on during the last minutes of grilling or smoking.

• 1 cup cherry preserves or jam
• 1/4 cup cider vinegar
• 1/4 cup barbecue sauce

• In a small saucepan, over medium heat, heat preserves, vinegar and barbecue sauce until preserves melt.

  Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 weeks.

  Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

  -- "300 Big & Bold Barbecue & Grilling Recipes" by Karen Adler and Judith Fertig (Robert Rose, 2009, $24.95)

  Gretchen McKay can be reached at gmckay@post-gazette.com or 412-263-1419.
  First published on May 21, 2009 at 12:00 am