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Clipped: Economic slump cuts into salons' business
Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Trimming hair and beauty treatments in this tight economy may be the unkindest cuts of all.

But around the region and across the country many of the salon owners and stylists are seeing consumers go longer between professional haircuts, manicures and other treatments, doing it themselves or forgoing services altogether.

"While the beauty industry is relatively recession-proof, we're not immune" to the economic problems, acknowledged Brad Masterson, spokesman for the Professional Beauty Association, based in Scottsdale, Ariz. "People still continue to buy beauty products, especially on hair, but people are changing their habits."

The hardest hit areas are what folks in the industry call the "non-core luxuries" such as facials and massages that many salons and day spas have started to offer over the past few years. Manicurists also are feeling the pinch.

Among other changes, many salons are seeing clients waiting longer between haircuts as well as coloring. "Maybe your brown roots are the new 'in,' " Mr. Masterson joked.

Women who have gotten their hair cut every four to six weeks are now waiting an extra two weeks to a month between salon visits. In addition, many more are opting for the cheaper beauty products found in drugstores or retail stores rather than the professional salon brands.

To save money, some clients also are visiting a combination of stylists over a period, such as a beauty school, whose advanced students provide haircuts and treatments at a cheaper rate; then a discount chain such as Fantastic Sams; and then back to their regular stylist, he said.

Even discount chains are seeing changes.

"We have seen an increase in customers from other salons who can no longer afford their regular stylist," said Steve Breuner, founder of the more than 2,100 Supercuts salons in Pennsylvania.

"And we have seen a drop in our regular clientele's visits, with time stretches between their appointments."

Several experts in the beauty industry warned that seeking cheaper treatments could end up costing the customer more if the procedure needs to be redone.

"Especially with color, it's buyer beware," Mr. Masterson said. "It's a trust factor."

Nicole Barrett, supervisor of the South Hills Beauty Academy in Dormont, has seen a huge increase in customers since the first of January, typically a slow time of the year.

"People are flooding in here, treating themselves," she said. "They want something new. They've all just gotten through a financially rough holiday season."

The academy, which also has a location in West View, offers a cosmetology program in which advanced students can practice their skills on the public. Haircuts and manicures, for example, start at $7.

Nationally the average price for a haircut is about $45 and regular manicure treatments may range from $15 to $30.

Mr. Masterson said his national organization also has seen an uptick of salon owners and stylists looking to stay on top of training and trends to stay competitive. The association offers career development and marketing training for those in the business.

"What we've really tried to stress is the economy is something we can't fix," he said. "You need to be there as a stylist, a shoulder and a support network for the client. It's the one luxury that clients are still keeping.

"That's what's going to get you through the tough times."

Ms. Barrett, the academy's supervisor for five years, agrees that building rapport with clients is important for survival.

"People will stop eating out. People will stop shopping," she said. "But they won't stop getting their hair done. The business of hair never dies."

Kara Voorhees, a senior at Chatham University, was an academic intern at the Post-Gazette.
First published on February 17, 2009 at 12:00 am