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On Valentine's Day, try cooking for two
Thursday, February 12, 2009

Every Valentine's Day since we married some 12 years ago, my artist husband makes me a Valentine's Day card. Like the one reproduced above, they're simple, homespun and loving. I've kept them all.

One year he made an unbound book of fanciful paper hearts, including hearts aflame, two hearts melded together and crazy-for-you hearts. Another year he carved a heart from a big chunk of apple heartwood. There are cracks around the sides but it's heavy and solid, like marriage.

In turn, I make him Valentine's Day dinner. Not a keepsake, really, except for the (very) few extra pounds that my dinners have settled around his middle. The sign of a good dinner and the real gift to the chef is a clean plate. It's not something you can hang on the wall.

I got to thinking about Valentine's Day when this new book arrived in the mail, "Cooking for Two: Perfect Meals for Pairs" by Jessica Strand (Chronicle, $19.95). A slim book, it has nice recipes and a good topic. Meals for pairs. Perfect for Valentine's Day at home.

Wines to pair with dinner for two
What to drink with Miriam Rubin's dinners for two? With the Alice B. Toklas Chicken: Charles Krug Yountville Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. This wine from the Peter Mondavi family vineyard is soft and fruity with a silky texture and a slightly sweet finish that will blend well with the port sauce (PLCB #5624, $25.99). For a less expensive alternative, look for a Chilean merlot for about $10.
The Bananas Foster will be sensational with Hardy's Botrytis Semillon (PLCB # 10201, $16.99). The noble rot that raisins the semillon grapes in this wine give it a complex sweetness with a nicely balanced acidity at the end to balance the cream in the dessert.
The Spaghetti Carbonara would pair well with Angelini Chianti Classico San Leonino 2004 (PLCB #24430, $10.99). This wine has good fruit but ample acidity to counteract the cheese and fat of the pasta.
With the Chocolate Souffles: Jonesy Port, NV, from Australia would be an ideal partner for this souffle. Port is a wonderful accompaniment for chocolate desserts. (PLCB #10188, $9.99).
-- Elizabeth Downer

Ms. Strand writes: "Preparing dishes for two is never as easy as one would imagine. First of all, you're always wondering about amounts. I often use only half, a quarter, or an eighth of a recipe in order not to eat leftovers for the rest of the week -- leftovers are terrific, but not for an entire week."

How true.

This year, Valentine's Day falls on a Saturday. Date night. Many of us would prefer that someone else do the work that night, fair enough. But maybe you're watching your bank account more closely these days. Or you want to do something different, more personal, something from the heart. Why not prepare Valentine's Day dinner at home for your sweetie with our just-for-two recipes?

According to a survey commissioned by Whole Foods Market, 81 percent of married adults "prefer that their significant others make them a nice dinner at home instead of taking them out to eat on Valentine's Day." And, "Nearly two-thirds (64 percent) agree that dinner at home is more intimate or special."

You should cook for two, even if there are more of you than that in the home. Especially if.

And if dinner at home sounds like too much work, maybe you could divide up the tasks. One of you does the main course and the other makes the dessert or the side dish. Or this method, tried and true at our house: I cook and he does the dishes. Now that's love.

When questioned about my husband's favorite dinner, I quipped to a friend that it is anything with pie. But pie is a dessert for more than two. By the second or third day, after several pieces have been devoured, pie is not all that appetizing. And leftover dessert tends to beckon to me from the kitchen. That I don't need.

Dessert for two with no leftovers is a smart thing. You can indulge and then it's over. Perfect portion control. I think you'll enjoy the fallen souffle (make it the night before, bake as you eat dinner) and a classic recipe for Bananas Foster in my Valentine's Day menus.

She's bananas for him
My unwitting sweetie (my husband) and I sat at the bar of a darkened restaurant, presumably for a late glass of wine.
"Don't order dessert just yet," I said to him, the dessert-lover. "Look over there."
The headwaiter had brought out a small portable burner and skillet. He melted butter and saut??ed bananas in brown sugar and banana liqueur. He tilted the skillet, added rum, and set it ablaze. As the rum burned, he sprinkled cinnamon over the flames, making sparks, like fairy dust.
This was a couple years back, when I was in New York for a few months to attend classes. I'd arranged this surprise, my favorite dessert, for my husband on his first weekend visit.
We were in Beppe, a superb Tuscan-themed restaurant that I love. The headwaiter, who prefers to be anonymous, had been a captain at New Orleans' famous Commander's Palace. After Katrina, he settled in New York and we became friends. He agreed to make us Banana Foster but only after all the other guests had left. It's hardly an Italian dessert.
Waiters, bus boys and kitchen staff watched as the warm bananas and rich sauce were spooned over house-made vanilla gelato. We all clapped at the first flames. And everyone had a special dessert that night.
-- Miriam Rubin

For your feasting choices, I present two menus. Each has an easy appetizer that you just assemble, and a side dish or two. I'll walk you through them.

For the Mixed Green Salad with Pears and Toasted Nuts, you'll need some mixed greens, a firm-ripe, fragrant pear (Bosc is good) and a handful of pine nuts, broken walnuts or slivered almonds. First put the nuts in a small skillet over medium heat, tossing, for about 3 minutes, until toasted.

Tip into a bowl and let cool. In a salad bowl, with a small whisk or fork, mix 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, 1 teaspoon honey, 1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard and salt and pepper to taste.

Add about 4 cups mixed greens and toss. Taste, adding more vinegar or salt, if needed. Quarter and core the pear and cut into thin crosswise slices. Add to the salad with the toasted nuts and toss again. Transfer to plates.


Menus
  • Mixed Green Salad with Pears and Toasted Nuts
  • Alice B. Toklas Chicken
  • Roasted Baby Potatoes or Buttered Egg Noodles
  • Asparagus
  • Bananas Foster
  • Chevre and Smoked Salmon Crostini
  • Spaghetti Carbonara with a Poached Egg on Top
  • Romaine and Arugula Salad
  • Crystallized Ginger and Fallen Chocolate Souffles

For the Chevre and Smoked Salmon Crostini, you'll need 6 to 8 thin slices toasted crusty baguette or 4 or so slices toasted ciabatta. Spread the toasts with plain or herbed goat cheese and top with a slice of smoked salmon. Add a squeeze of lemon and that's that. Omit the salmon, if you prefer. Add a tiny spoon of salmon or paddlefish caviar if you really prefer.

For the Romaine and Arugula Salad served with the spaghetti menu, use the same dressing as above, but leave out the honey. Add sliced romaine and an equal amount of arugula or watercress (to measure 4 cups) and sliced jarred roasted peppers and halved cherry tomatoes. Toss and serve.

Of course, you can always pan-fry or grill a steak or some lamb chops if that's what your sweetheart desires. Whole Foods is offering heart-shaped, boneless, rib-eye "sweetheart steaks" for two, special for Valentine's. You could begin your meal with one of the starters I've suggested.

Add a baked potato and a veg. Just don't forget dessert. Even a pie.

Your sweetie will love you for it.


Miriam Rubin is a cookbook author and food writer who lives with her sweetie in Greene County. Reach her at mmmrubin@gmail.com.
First published on February 12, 2009 at 12:00 am
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