EmailEmail
PrintPrint
Munch goes to Giotto
Thursday, January 15, 2009

Known for the stunning realism of his paintings and frescoes, the first true genius of Italian Renaissance art, Giotto di Bodone -- simply dubbed Giotto -- is said to have once painted, in a single stroke, a circle so perfect that it was used to prove his artistic bona fides to Pope Boniface VIII, who had dispatched a messenger to inquire after the young artist he had heard about.

The tale inspired an Italian proverb: "Perfetto come la 'O' di Giotto" or "As perfect as Giotto's circle."

It's with that same attentive and artistic spirit in mind that the Girasole family -- of the namesake Girasole restaurant in Shadyside -- opened Giotto, a new gourmet Italian pizzeria on East Carson Street in the South Side.

Head pizza chef Gino Girasole has studied his craft in Italy, and for many years under award-winning Pittsburgh pizza pope Ron Molinaro of Il Pizzaolo in Mt. Lebanon, before working in his family's establishment.

No stranger to the Flats, Munch had seen the place coming together for several months in the former home of the Carson Street Deli. The original concept for Giotto's was something called Pizza America! -- a terrible name that sounds like it belongs at EuroDisney food court or the pizza stand at the Beijing Olympics. So they get kudos for picking the much cooler name. But are their pies a perfect circle of dough, sauce and cheese?

Not unlike ol' Boniface, Munch wanted to test the bona fides of Gino, so the brown-bagged one put together a notoriously stingy taste panel: a pack of four hungry dudes, just back from bowling, drinking beer and watching the NFL playoffs to see who would become the Steelers' next punching bag en route to Super Bowl XLIII.

We ordered two massive 20-inch pies -- a Margherita made with tomato, buffalo mozzarella, basil and extra virgin olive oil ($20) and a traditional Neapolitan topped with roasted red peppers, fresh mushrooms and fresh ground sausage ($19). Bianca (white pizza) is also available ($20).

That both pies were mauled in less than 15 minutes is all that you need to know about the quality of the pie. But Munch will give you details anyway.

The toppings on each were exquisitely fresh and placed in ample amounts, but the star is the crust. Though such statements are often hyperbole, Munch can honestly say this is the best pizza crust that has ever passed these lips. The handmade dough has perfect consistency and layers of subtle tastes; Giotto could probably make a living selling the crust alone.

In addition to pizzas, Giotto also makes some killer hoagies -- eggplant, Italian, meatball, porchetta, sausage & peppers and veal & peppers ($8-10). Munch tried the veal & peppers and it was as much a revelation as it was a sandwich.

An ample cut of veal enveloped in orange peppers roasted in the pizza oven, on an outstanding ciabatta bun made by the Mediterra Bakery that is practically angelic.

Each sandwich comes with a side salad, the Girasole Insalata (also available as an entree for $8), made with mixed greens, plum tomatoes, garbanzo beans, gorgonzola and sunflower seeds. Munch challenges you to find a better $10 lunch anywhere in the city.

While there are plenty of pizza places on the South Side, Giotto's quality is welcome and it fills a niche. While Little Chicago's makes excellent deep dish, Michael's a stalwart straight-up American pizza, and Pizza Sola more than serviceable thin crust New York-style -- no truly authentic Italian pizza places existed on the South Side.

Giotto the artist created the perfect circle, and while Munch will stop just short of the "P" word in describing this Giotto's pizza, there is almost no room for improvement.

First published on January 15, 2009 at 12:00 am
Featured Rentals