A federal survey that showed 1 in 200 children have followed a vegetarian diet -- the first time numbers have been offered for people under 18 -- drew much attention earlier this week.

But the news overlooked a more relevant point: Vegetarianism doesn't appear to be rising among adults.

As meatless diets have gained mainstream acceptance in recent years, options for vegetarian food have dramatically increased, especially at restaurants and grocery stores. Tofu, soy milk and even seitan (a common gluten substitute for meat) can now be found at almost any regular grocery store.

But in response to a question on the 2007 National Health Interview Survey, conducted by a branch of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, 1.5 percent of adults said they had followed a vegetarian diet for two or more weeks in the last year for health reasons, compared with 1.6 percent adults in the 2002 survey. In five years, the results had barely changed.

So if there aren't more vegetarians, who's eating all of this vegetarian food?

Probably you are.

While most Americans are not interested in a meat-free lifestyle, meat is clearly moving away from the center of the plate. More non-vegetarians than ever are introducing "meatless nights" into their meal plans and cutting down on meat portion sizes.

During a recent appearance on "Bill Moyers Journal" on PBS, acclaimed food journalist and activist Michael Pollan suggested that President-elect Barack Obama might lead the country in enacting "Meatless Mondays." According to Mr. Pollan, if the entire country eliminated meat from its diets for just one night a week, it would have an environmental effect equivalent to taking "30 to 40 million cars off the road for a year."

Mark Bittman, a popular food writer who focuses on home cooking, is best known for his book, "How to Cook Everything," which has sold more than 1 million copies. He is not a vegetarian, nor does he ever intend to become one, but he spent three years writing the 2007 book "How to Cook Everything Vegetarian," because he believes that everyone should introduce more meatless meals into their diets.

In other words, advocates of vegetarian cuisine are no longer zealots advocating for a total rejection of animal products, but view vegetarian meals as part of a regular diet.

Some people call this a "flexitarian" diet because people eat more balanced proportions of vegetables, fruit, legumes, grains, meats and fish. Some flexitarians might restrict meat to one meal a day. Others might eat a vegetarian diet during the summer when a bounty of local fruits and vegetables are available, then eat more meat during the winter.

The Vegetarian Resource Group, a nonprofit that educates the public on vegetarianism as it relates to health, nutrition, ecology, ethics and world hunger, puts the percentage of adult vegetarians in the Unites States at between 1 percent and 3 percent. The group agreed with the national survey that the number of vegetarians has remained relatively constant in recent years.

Yet when the group asks non-vegetarians about meatless diets, "the interest is definitely growing," reports Charles Stahler, co-director of the Baltimore-based organization.

Even in Pittsburgh, widely characterized as a meat-centric place, vegetarian and vegan food -- devoid of animal products of any kind -- are becoming increasingly mainstream.

Sherree Goldstein, a lifelong Pittsburgh resident and owner of the Square Cafe in Regent Square, has been a vegetarian at times in her life. But today she eats some meat and fish while also eating vegetarian meals because she believes that's the healthiest diet she can have in a four-season city where fresh, local food isn't accessible year round.

Derek Stephens, executive chef of Eleven, a fine dining restaurant in the Strip District, said the popularity of vegetarian dishes increases dramatically in spring, summer and fall, "when local produce is really off the charts and we're getting amazing tomatoes and everything." Eleven has offered a vegetarian tasting menu for almost as long as it's been open, and it has grown in popularity.

"I think some of the best feedback we've gotten has been from people who ordered it who weren't vegetarians but who ordered it because they thought it sounded good or interesting," Mr. Stephens said.

At the Square Cafe as well, vegetarian and carnivorous diners alike take advantage of the full menu.

"I think a lot of our meat eaters eat a lot of our vegetarian dishes," said Ms. Goldstein.