Most people are probably familiar with paper packets of hot cocoa mix, some with tiny marshmallows. Today there are hundreds of cocoa mixes, some flavored, some plain, all touting their convenience and delicious taste. Many brands now offer more "upscale" mixes, such as Hershey's Cacao Reserve premium mix drinking cocoa and Land O' Lakes Cocoa Classics. Premium brands do give a richer, darker chocolate taste, but they still have the slightly off-flavors of powdered milk. They're also all very sweet.

For less money and not much more work, make hot cocoa from unsweetened cocoa powder, sugar and milk. Cocoa powders can generally be divided into Dutch-processed and natural (cocoa powder that is Dutch-processed has been treated with an alkali to neutralize its acids). This characteristic matters a lot for baking, because it effects how the cocoa will react with baking powder versus baking soda, but it doesn't matter for drinking. Some people prefer Dutched cocoa, others prefer natural. I do find that natural cocoa powders tend to contribute more intense chocolate flavor.

Popular Dutched brands include Droste, Valrhona and Pernigotti; popular natural brands include Ghiradelli (look for unsweetened), Green & Black (organic, fair trade) and Scharffen Berger. Penzeys cocoa is available in both Dutched and natural versions.

While you can't really beat the flavor and texture of hot chocolate made from scratch, there are some good reasons to keep a couple of good mixes around. First of all, they're much more convenient. You don't have to finely chop chocolate, which can get messy, and you don't have to worry about people snacking on bars of chocolate you've set aside for drinking.

I sampled about a dozen hot chocolate mixes from a few different sources. My favorite nonflavored drinking chocolate was the Ghana 80 from Allegro Coffee ($12.99, Whole Foods). The hot chocolate was intense, with a round, earthy flavor. It also had one of the best textures of all the test batches -- smooth and silky. I also liked Guittard Grand Cacao Drinking Chocolate, made from a mix of Dutched cocoa and ground chocolate ($8.75, Mon Aimee Chocolat). This hot chocolate was slightly sweeter, with a milder flavor.

Mixes also come in an impressive array of flavors. Try Kama Sutra by Chocolate Moderne ($21, Mon Aimee Chocolat) which incorporates coconut, cardamom and clove. The coconut flavor comes out in a mild creaminess in the finish. Schokinag Chocolate Mint (Giant Eagle Market District, $12.79) balances dark chocolate flavors with vibrant mintiness; add a shot of bourbon and you've got a chocolate mint julep.

Mon Aimee Chocolat also sells mixes of its own hot chocolate, which comes in milk chocolate, dark chocolate and spicy dark chocolate ($8.75).

Instructions will vary slightly and at least the first time you use a mix it's a good idea to use the ratios on the box, but one method will work well.

Heat your liquid (milk, water or soy milk) over medium-high heat on the stove until it's just beginning to bubble around the edges.

Turn the stove down to low and whisk in the mix until it's completely dissolved. Don't let the milk come to a boil, but continue to let it heat. Use a rubber spatula to scrape the sides and bottom and make sure you've incorporated all of the chocolate. Pour into mugs, top with whatever you'd like and serve immediately.