Munch has been getting soft, man. Too much sushi. Too much vegetarian Indian cuisine. One too many trips to Asian tea houses. One too many chicken-walnut-cranberry panini sandwiches. Too much convenience. Not enough wandering the highways and byways of Pennsylvania, off the beaten paths, putting some serious miles on the Munch-mobile, looking for adventure.

Munch is getting back to basics, starting today (though we reserve the right to hit up a sushi joint tomorrow) with a report on our visit Ed's Steakhouse in Bedford, Bedford County. You've seen the billboards on the Turnpike. But you've sped right by on your way to someplace else.

Well, shame on you. Why eat at a rest stop Burger King for the bazillionth time when you could try something new?

Rather, new to you. Ed's has been there for decades, and it sort of bathes in its own well-lit antiquity with a dated collection of dining room furnishings, softened leather bar furniture and decorative artifacts -- old gas pumps, for one.

You can never have enough of those old gas pumps lying around. Nothing screams classy like one of those bright orange "76" balls.

The name says steakhouse, and yes, there are plenty of cuts of beef on the menu here, but really this is one of those old-time, sprawling, catch-all lounges so popular in Western Pennsylvania, and so dear to Munch's heart. Fish, pasta, sub sandwiches, salads, everything really, and lookie here, some baked pork chops to boot.

Munch was engaged in some serious hand-wringing. Would it be the baked pork chops? Or the oak-barrel flank steak?

Finally Munch's mind was made up -- when in Rome, try the steak ($12.99).

"It was a tough call," Munch said to Waitress of Munch (WOM). "Between the steak and baked pork chops."

You made the right call, WOM said. "We're out of the baked pork chops."

Could have told us that beforehand, lady. Would have saved us some wrung hands.

But that's how it goes at Ed's, where the service is friendly and forgetful at the same time. You want Sardi's service, you eat at Sardi's, I guess. (But the pre-meal loaf of bread, light and warm with a knife sticking out of the crust, is a cute touch.)

The steak came with a standard tossed salad and a choice of sides -- Munch went with the hearty, fragrant garlic mashed potatoes. The steak? Nice and soft, blackened, and tasty (though not particularly juicy). If Munch ever stops here again, it'll be either the prime rib (locals speak highly of it) or the seductive garlic steak.

What can I say? Munch loves the garlic. The ideal meal: Garlic steak, garlic mashed potatoes with a side of garlic toast.

Do they make beer with garlic in it, by any chance?

Dear one of Munch (DOOM) had trouble finishing a meatball sub ($5.49) -- the meatballs were generous, and the thick sauce that covered them was sweet and piquant at the same time.

As is often the case when DOOM and Munch dine together, DOOM summoned Munch from the bullpen to finish off the meal.

Nobody goes nine innings anymore. State of the game today, I guess. But I betcha Warren Spahn would have liked a place like Ed's Steakhouse.

Ed's Steakhouse, just off exit 146 on the Pennsylvania Turnpike mainline, 4476 Business 220, Bedford. 1-814-623-8894.