NEW YORK -- Given the restraint of the collections for this fall and winter and the tendency of fashion to become more basic in times of adversity, one would reasonably expect American fashion to veer closer to minimalism next spring and summer.

Not so, based on what American designers have shown in the opening days of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Menswear, particularly collections by Elie Tahari and Perry Ellis, continues in traditional American sportswear. Shades of blue are the favorite accent color against whites and pale browns and grays, from windbreakers and plaid jackets to Bermuda shorts and torso-skimming knit shirts.

The feel is simpler, more organic, natural and nature-inspired. And it's even more evident in womenswear collections.

Designers such as Max Azria are designing not according to convention or reaction but based on what they believe their customers want. And that's not clothes that will make them look or feel depressed.

The BCBG collection Azria unveiled yesterday typified the subtle shift in design to clothes that radiate optimism and self-confidence without crossing the line to the sort of no-holds-barred aesthetic of so many collections in recent seasons.

The pullback is in color canvasses, which this time are built on pale neutrals of gray, brown and white and look more organic. Pop colors such as purple and red are rationed sparingly. Prints are more toned down than last spring, often reflecting nature themes, as seen in the Tahari womenswear line inspired by an urban tropical paradise and Rachel Roy's African-print pieces.

Color saturation is the exception rather than the rule. But when done, as in BCBG's lovely solid orange and fuchsia crepe and jersey dresses, it is always striking.

More than color and print, though, women's apparel seems driven by inventive cutting and draping of fabric. Perhaps in response to hotter summers that are marking record temperatures, designers are using softer, lighter weight textiles that are more challenging to work with but yield rewards to the persistent.

Such fabrics come alive in the hands of skilled designers such as Azria, who added alluring drape details to silk, voile and jersey jumpsuits as well as floaty sleeveless and strapless dresses. When you toss in his belted dresses, tailored vests and chic platform sandals, Azria seemed to be nudging his client toward a more sophisticated, grown-up look without sacrificing his freshness and originality.

Comfort is critical, and designers know this. Silhouettes are looser but not baggy or oversized, tailored but with an elegant fluidity that wears without constriction or confinement.

This holds true even in some special-occasion looks. Cesar Galindo, who unveiled his collection Thursday, combined silks, satins, organza burnouts and lace with bold fruit colors, black and white in smartly designed day-to-evening separates, cocktail dresses and gowns inspired by Acapulco in the '60s.

New York fashion week, which officially runs eight days, continues today with showings by labels such as Lacoste, Charlotte Ronson, Rosa Cha and Rock and Republic. It concludes Friday evening, when Philadelphia native Ralph Rucci presents his newest Chado line as the "Mercedes-Benz Presents" showcase designer.